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H1 mounting procedure

K

K5dreamer

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Just wondering, the H1 rims i have will need to be completely gone over before i seriously mount them to the truck, but i was curious as to what is concidered "proper" when mounting tires on these rims.

The studs and nuts - replace every time? or is there an interval?

the o ring - replace every time????

For instance, im unloading the axles from the truck tonight, and it would be nice to throw my used tires on the H1's in order to mount them and roll the axles around, wayyyyyy easier than dragging or lifting (i am NOT that big and strong) Probably only need 20psi or so, but the tires are used military surplus, and ive heard that those rings popping off if the studs give out can cause quite a loss of bodily parts.

So what im asking is, do yall think im ok to go ahead and throw two of those used 38in swampers on two of the H1 rims, bolt em together, and air em up just to move the axles around, and then deflate and unmount them again?

When i get to the point of seriously mounting them, ill have the rims powder coated, new studs and nuts and o-rings. and all that jazz. and of course, because they are 8 stud, i wont go over 30psi.
 
might do some google lookin.... or post on steel soldiers... ill report back with what i find. just in case there are others here who are curious.
 
I have had my H1's apart several times while changing tires but the only thing I have ever replaced is the o-rings (even then I only did it once). The best advice I can give is to use LOTS of lubricant on the studs (I used anti-seize). I learned the hard way that the nuts will gall(?) without lube and replacements were a little hard to find. I'm sure I'll be flogged for doing it wrong but I didn't torque the nuts, I just ran them down tight with an air gun.
 
i was in the military for 4 years and never replaced the studs and nutsunless they looked bad or were stripped.never had a problem with leaking either.i would replace tires and check for air bleed down after 20 minutes.if it didnt bleed down i would leave it.i used standard breaker bar to replace and tighten down as right as it would go.so many tires and wheels go through in the field we dont take that much time to worry about that much though.ive never seen any studs break though the rim though.we always used antiseize on them and gaa grease on the o ring to make it seal correctly and didnt have any problems ever.o rings should be replaced every 3 tire changes if you can find them as they do chafe a lil every time you torque them down.
 
chulisohombre said:
i was in the military for 4 years and never replaced the studs and nutsunless they looked bad or were stripped.never had a problem with leaking either.i would replace tires and check for air bleed down after 20 minutes.if it didnt bleed down i would leave it.i used standard breaker bar to replace and tighten down as right as it would go.so many tires and wheels go through in the field we dont take that much time to worry about that much though.ive never seen any studs break though the rim though.we always used antiseize on them and gaa grease on the o ring to make it seal correctly and didnt have any problems ever.o rings should be replaced every 3 tire changes if you can find them as they do chafe a lil every time you torque them down.
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hey, thanks for the info, always good to have first person knowledge. and what is "gaa grease"?
 
sorry,standard gaa is just wheel bearing grease in military form.5 gallon bucket.haha.it helps to lube the o ring and squeeze into the groove between the 2 halves better to hold the seal.also will prevent the oring from dryrotting inbetween tire changes.you can overtorque the studs with a heavy duty impact gun.i do believe the specified torque on the studs was 120 foot pounds pounds per stud,which is close to what a 12 inch breaker bar puts out.then must be torqued down evenly in a star pattern till tight just like putting on the the vehicle.i used to use a lil wd40 or penetrating fluid of some sort(whatever we had basically) on the studs to help get then torqued down easier.as was said a lil never seize will help peobably best and then be easier to take back off when unmounting the tire.basic procedure.hope it helps get you rollin.
 
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chulisohombre said:
sorry,standard gaa is just wheel bearing grease in military form.5 gallon bucket.haha.it helps to lube the o ring and squeeze into the groove between the 2 halves better to hold the seal.also will prevent the oring from dryrotting inbetween tire changes.you can overtorque the studs with a heavy duty impact gun.i do believe the specified torque on the studs was 120 foot pounds pounds per stud,which is close to what a 12 inch breaker bar puts out.then must be torqued down evenly in a star pattern till tight just like putting on the the vehicle.basic procedure.hope it helps get you rollin.
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much appriciated :bow:

Im putting valvestems in the outter rims today at work. Ive tot some TS 413's which look visually identical to the reminants of the TS 418's that were in the outter rims. if nothing else it will let me store them. Im not putting them on the truck anytime soon, still gotta source a lift kit, get the spring perches moved on the D70HD, do the disk brake swap, sort out my e-brake issue lol. looks like it will be next year before i get everything up and running.

Ill have the rims media blasted and powdercoated, and isntall new studs and nuts and o-rings, and hopefully by then have brand new tires to put on. For now, i just wanna mount the rims in the tires well enough that they hold air, so i can store them without em filling up with water or becoming homes to critters.

OH YEAH what size are the nuts??? looks to be 20mm.
 
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