H1 wheel questions and opinions

[45acpJr]

I found 5 H1 wheels for sale (8.5x16.5 7" BS 12 bolt) for $350 (missing the runflats). I have a few questions, will that backspacing work with our axles? Or is there another step that I'm missing? Also I know there aren't many 16.5 tires being made these days, what are some other pros/cons?

 

[sweetk30]

wrong on tires. interco and pitbull make 16.5 tires.

and need around 4" b/s to use on stock srw axles.

can do 60 front with drw hubs and 3" spacers each side rear for close fit to match front to rear. or the wide 70hd drw axle and swap on srw hubs to it for no spacers.

 

[45acpJr]

So in short, the good deal I found will cost me a small fortune in the long run. What are the majority of others running.......steel wheels with weld on bead locks?

 

[NorCal_Chris]

no. Most run recentered h1 beadlocks. I personally thing weld on beadlocks on a 16.5 is kinda dumb.

You can get a recentered 8 bolt beadlock for around 150 a peice. add 50 bucks if you want the pvc insert to make it a double beadlock. or find some mag or rubber runflats to cut down

http://www.trailworthyfab.com/

 

[45acpJr]

no. Most run recentered h1 beadlocks. I personally thing weld on beadlocks on a 16.5 is kinda dumb.

You can get a recentered 8 bolt beadlock for around 150 a peice.

Sorry what I meant was a regular steel wheel, such as a 17" or something along those lines. Instead of the h1 wheel

 

[big pappa b]

I'm running the stock 12 bolt wheels on my rear and a 2" spacer on the front. Mine are not recentered. Just need the spacers to clear the steering components.
I have these for sale:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=297698 May or may not need trimmed

 

[NorCal_Chris]

Sorry what I meant was a regular steel wheel, such as a 17" or something along those lines. Instead of the h1 wheel

yeah a few do. some 17s have issues with burping inner beads. Kinda depends on the tire. 15in weld on beadlocks are pretty common. I think most when they go to 17s get a nice forged aluminium beadlock, wich is what i would do. But ive never had to air down far enough to lose a bead the way it is, so for now it isnt worth the headache of balancing, mounting, and maintaning.

 

[45acpJr]

yeah a few do. some 17s have issues with burping inner beads. Kinda depends on the tire. 15in weld on beadlocks are pretty common. I think most when they go to 17s get a nice forged aluminium beadlock, wich is what i would do. But ive never had to air down far enough to lose a bead the way it is, so for now it isnt worth the headache of balancing, mounting, and maintaning.

I'm sure I don't have the need for beadlocks as of right now but I'm just trying to jump on a good deal if it is in fact a good deal

 

[jt512]

$350 is not really a "deal" on H1's. I bought mine recently for $25 each, shipping was high ($80) but $180 for 4 wheels shipped wasn't bad, I am waiting on my pressed centers which will put me at 3.5" backspacing and rim guards from c&m performance machine and I will order some PVC inserts once I get the wheels ready.

 

[NorCalKid]

I agree you can do better price wise especially since they dont come with the runflat or some PVC. I went with h1s instead of swapping out my DRW hubs on the 60 so for me it was the cheaper option. Everything said and done I like them

 

[2INSANE]

Now where did I put those pictures... Ah ha! There they are! I had these saved on my phone from someone's build. H1s re centered. Could also get in contact with www.trailworthyfab.com

There's the 8 bolt h1s and the 12 bolt h1s... I recommend the 12 bolt.

I would buy the unmolested h1s, 12 bolt and then have a darn good welder recenter them for ya. Add rock rings too.

Hope this s*** help.

I run the 37/12.5/r16.5 military take offs and love them! Re centered h1s are on my next to buy list. I've heard there's a lot of problems getting them balanced, the h1s that is...

Not much of a tire selection for the 16.5 rim but there is a small selection out there. Always do your research b4 you buy!

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

Backspacing is WAY off for what you want (assuming you're not using a DRW front axle and super wide rear axle).

To use the H1's (without modification) on SRW 1 ton Chevy axles, you have to have them re-centered (which is likely more than those wheels cost). On top of that, if they're used hard in the rocks, they'll need rock rings welded to them too.

If you're using SRW axles, I'd skip them. If you're using DRW axles (pretty sure you're planning on the SRW axles you just picked up), they work ok on the front but not on the rear.

 

[2INSANE]

Backspacing is WAY off for what you want (assuming you're not using a DRW front axle and super wide rear axle).

To use the H1's (without modification) on SRW 1 ton Chevy axles, you have to have them re-centered (which is likely more than those wheels cost). On top of that, if they're used hard in the rocks, they'll need rock rings welded to them too.

If you're using SRW axles, I'd skip them. If you're using DRW axles (pretty sure you're planning on the SRW axles you just picked up), they work ok on the front but not on the rear.

Noob question Chris...

Wtf does SRW and DRW mean? Abbreviated for?

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

SRW = Single Rear Wheel, i.e. 1 ton trucks with two tires in the front and two (total) in the rear

DRW = Dual Rear Wheel, Dually trucks. The front axles are ~8" wider overall with wheels that use TONS of backspacing so that they only need one spare (the front wheels have to have tons of offset so they're identical to the dual rear wheels).

 

[2INSANE]

SRW = Single Rear Wheel, i.e. 1 ton trucks with two tires in the front and two (total) in the rear

DRW = Dual Rear Wheel, Dually trucks. The front axles are ~8" wider overall with wheels that use TONS of backspacing so that they only need one spare (the front wheels have to have tons of offset so they're identical to the dual rear wheels).

G2k! Thanks Chris! As always, a professional to noob questions.

 

[45acpJr]

/Thanks for chiming in Chris, what wheels do you recommend