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HAD driveline e-brake or Eldorado discs?

blowedupmotor87

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I'm trying to figure out the better route to take for an e-brake for the Jimmy (205/14BFF, 14BFF I've got has non e-brake discs). I've heard of Eldorado calipers but hear they go out of adjustment a lot. The HAD e-brake seems pretty pimp, linky: http://www.highangledriveline.com/e_brake.html So, which would be the better option? (price doesn't matter, they're similar $$$.) I tried searching but couldn't find an answer. If there's a thread I missed, please post a link, thanks!:D
 
From my experience, yes the eldo calipers need maintainance as pads wear out. I would go for the driveshaft brake just simply because you don't have to worry about e-brake cables going to the calipers. One less thing to get in the way and worry about overextending. So far my parking pawl is working okay but would love some sort of e-brake. May just do a line lock even though they tend to bleed down.
 
I was planning on a mechanical line lock (lever type) but if I had the money I would use HAD's t-case parking brake setup.

My '57 willys has a t-case parking brake standard so it's not new tech and it works well. :waytogo:
 
no brainer for me.. have the 205 and hate the hanging cable gig... super cheap calipers being a plus too..
 
Unless it was a legal thing (unsure if states that check e-brakes would pass the HAD one? It's an e-brake though!) I can't see a disadvantage of running the HAD setup. More effective (axle gears multiply the braking power just like they do engine power) less parts, cleaner install.

All seem like + to me, not sure what possible downside there could be when comparing Eldo calipers to this, other than perhaps not having a t-case the setup would work with.
 
The only downside to the transfer case brake is if you break something between the brake and wheels (ie, driveshaft, u-joint, r&p, axle shafts) you could lose ability to stop.
 
I vote caddy calipers. I know of several people that have used the HAD E-brake and they don't hold that well and you have to fab up some brackets and also find a cable to make it work. Havine two calipers makes for more gripping power than a single caliper and also if any drivetrain component breaks you will still have an E-brake.

I've been running the caddy calipers for about 5 years now and do not have any issues with adjustment. There is a trick to moving the p[iston back into the caliper bore when you need to install new pads but that's a piece of cake.
 
I had the caddy calipers on my old burb. Had them rebuilt by a fellow ck5 member, ran them for a while, didn't like how they worked so i cored them out for some brand new ones. Ran those for about a yr and never really like the feel. My drum brakes felt better than the caddy's did. And yes I did have an adjustable prop valve.
 
LOL....when I had my eldo calipers, I had the arms and the springs and you know, I never had the ebrake hooked up lol
 
Thanks for all the info everybody! I forgot to add 2 things: the truck is a stick (sm465) so, I have to have an e-brake & legality ought not be a problem, they just look for the e-brake to stop the truck, and operate like OEM (foot pedal w/ release). Thanks!:D
 
I have the HAD driveline brake and it works fine. If you lose the rear shaft you would not have a parking brake unless it was in 4wd with the hubs locked. That is also a bonus that you can lock the hubs and have a parking brake for all 4 wheels. Parking brakes are not meant to stop the vehicle, just hold it from rolling when parked.
 
Parking brakes are not meant to stop a vehicle, but I bet if you lost your brakes and were heading down a hill, after you drop it down gear by gear into 1st it'd be nice to have another pedal to push before you hit oncoming traffic at the curve at the bottom of the hill, wouldn't it?
 
Thanks for the input everybody! Sounds like the HAD might be a good way to go. Got a few months yet before the swaps occur so, a good bit of time to figure it out! Please keep the experiences/opinions coming, thanks y'all!
 
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