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Half assed hi steer idea

Stomis

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Ok not literally put together half assed but I'm just looking to improve some clearances under my truck.

The idea is that the zero rates installed on my front springs give me enough room to put my tierod ontop of the stock knuckles locations instead of below them. I need to do some measuring because I think its going to be close. I already know the problem that I face is that the stock arms on the knuckles are tapered to be installed from bottom to top. What could I do to remedy this? Could I just ream them out and torque the TRE's real good?
 
Could I just ream them out and torque the TRE's real good?

I'm gonna say no. You could ream 'em out, build a new tie rod, and run heims (but most folks here prefer TRE's). I run heims and haven't had any problems, but if I'd have known better at the time, I'd have built a tie rod that uses TRE's.
 
I'm gonna say no. You could ream 'em out, build a new tie rod, and run heims (but most folks here prefer TRE's). I run heims and haven't had any problems, but if I'd have known better at the time, I'd have built a tie rod that uses TRE's.

Thats an idea there... I'm gonna see if I could fashion a way to just drill the top of the arm leaving the middle still tappered so they could be installed either way.
 
Thats an idea there... I'm gonna see if I could fashion a way to just drill the top of the arm leaving the middle still tappered so they could be installed either way.

That would not work at all, the knuckle would likely fail and the TRE will rock in its bore (destroying the knuckle).

You could do heims but they aren't perfect either.
 
Just find some knuckle off a dana 44 with the falt tops. they are tapered from top to bottom and it tucks the steering up nice and close to the leaf springs.
 
Ok looks like I'm gonna start thinking about a heim tierod. If I'm gonna change knuckles i'm gonna just go histeer. Which I will do eventually but I just cant afford it now.
 
The only thing i have never liked about high steer is that it looks like it put alot of strain on the top of the knuckle.
 
If you can't afford it now then why do it now? I would just wait and do it right so you don't waste your money and then say "DOH why did I do that!" If you clearence issues are causing you to not wheel then thats one thing but if it is working the way it is I would say wait it out!
 
Or just build a beefy tie rod that can take a hit and leave it low. But yeah, in the mean time: if ain't broke, don't fix it.
 
plus if you have high steer that relocates the tierod abouve the leafs which in turn leave your diff cover open to be smashed on rocks or such, which means you have to buy an expensive hd front cover.
 
which most people who are serious about wheeling already have or are gonna have...i run hi steer on my rig and even if i didnt id still have a thick cover cause when you get hung on a rock it still can damge the diff cover pretty bad...if your serious about trail riding a guard or cover is NESSARY
 
plus if you have high steer that relocates the tierod abouve the leafs which in turn leave your diff cover open to be smashed on rocks or such, which means you have to buy an expensive hd front cover.
I would rather smash my 100$ bullet proof cover than my tie rod. I dont have histeer and never will, so I try to watch where Im going:wink1:
 
Lol I never knew there was a gripe with hi-steer... All the toy guys run it...

I've personally seen two broken D60 knuckles, both were running high steer

brokenknuckle.jpg
 
Hmmm has anyone ever gotten a setup like this to work on a leaf sprung truck?


What do you mean? The tie rod is in the stock (low) location like most of us run.

That "crossover" draglink isn't the best way to do it but many Jeeps and Fords are setup like that from the factory.
 
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