Has anyone else broken CV joints? I've broken 2 in the last year. The first time I snapped a tie rod and over flexed the outside joint. Last week I got the front end up in the air and bowndup the tri-pod joint so bad it popped out. Would my 6" lift cause that serious a driveline angle? What do the offroad racing trucks use?
CK5
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Half Shafts
- Thread starter dtxnut03
- Start date
sled_dog
1 ton status
what lift kit do you have? Some kits create crappy CV angles which cause wear and increase the likely hood of busting the shafts.
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What do the offroad racing trucks use?
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Custom made half shafts that cost $1,500+ per side. /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif
What do the offroad racing trucks use?
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Custom made half shafts that cost $1,500+ per side. /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif
I'm running a pro-comp kit, was on the truck when I bought it 6 years ago. Yah custom shafts are big $$$$ but I need to stop breaking stuff every time I unload the suspension. Thanks for the info. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
Send a PM to Bubba Ray Beaudreaux (sp?). He follows the desert racing scene and may know where to get a decent deal on those shafts. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Another thought... You could save yourself a bunch of money by just installing some limiting straps on your suspension. Prevent it from over extending and the CV's won't explode. $20 sounds WAY better than $3,000 to me. /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif
Short course SODA or CORR trucks were using Porsche 930's & 934's on the inners and Olds/Eldorado on the outers. These trucks were running big inch big blocks and sticky tires. I think Jesse at High Angle Driveline offers an alternative, but I don't know about the cost or the actual parts.
89K1500Chevy
1/2 ton status
damn you got some bad luck i have had my truck for 6 years and only had to replace both cv's 1 time and it gets wheeled hard, but the balljoints/ idlerarm do wear out anywhere from 1 to 2 years but that aint no thing. But im only running 33x12.50 xterrains on 16x10's what size tires you running?
He's running a 6-inch lift (which screws up the CV angles a bit) and jumps his truck. /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif When the suspension tops out hard, it causes the angle on the CV's to exceed their working limit. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
Is the truck a 1/2 or 3/4?
My /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gifis a 3/4 ton and are running dunlop 33x12.5x16.5 mudders. A buddy told me that the new pro-comp kits come with limit staps /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gifMay have to look into that /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Diesel Dan
1/2 ton status
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He's running a 6-inch lift (which screws up the CV angles a bit) and jumps his truck.
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The 6" procomp doesn't alter the CV angle if you set the torsion bars correctly. It drops the diff the same as the knuckles. Brother in-law installed the same kit in his K2500. All depends on how much preload you want to put on the T-bars. You can change the lift by almost 2" by running the half-shafts almost level or turning the bars all the way up.
Limiting straps sound like the best bang for the buck at this point.
He's running a 6-inch lift (which screws up the CV angles a bit) and jumps his truck.
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The 6" procomp doesn't alter the CV angle if you set the torsion bars correctly. It drops the diff the same as the knuckles. Brother in-law installed the same kit in his K2500. All depends on how much preload you want to put on the T-bars. You can change the lift by almost 2" by running the half-shafts almost level or turning the bars all the way up.
Limiting straps sound like the best bang for the buck at this point.
Instead of the Olds or Toronado outers, they're now using one ton cv's from GM.
gonecheenin
1/2 ton status
NO, the lift DOES alter his CV angles when the suspension is unloaded
I installed a Pro Comp lift on my friends 88 K2500 a few years ago, i would NEVER buy a pro-comp IFS lift again because of the exact thing this gentleman is describing happening to my buddys truck as well
If you look at your lower procomp drop frame, in the bottom of it is two (1 on each side) bumpstops for the suspension too stop against when it is unloaded, problem is the original bumpstops were on the upper a-arm, not the lower a arm, now thats not a problem in itself (although if you notice all the newer top shelf kit's are leaving the upper control arm and it's bumstops and etc... in their stock location and using an extended steering knuckle setup to avoid having this exact problem) but the way pro comp designed it, the arms and cv's can now travel WAY farther then they were designed to
And as you have found out the hard way- if you are applying any power and sometimes even just coasting when the suspension unloads-POP goes the joint
Bad design by pro comp (i don't like there multi peice drop frames either, they shift when off roaded, if you have the capability, make sure the kit is bolted tight and alignable then weld the lower frame together)
The limiting straps, if set up right, should solve your problem. Just error on the side of less travel when setting them up
Another problem with the pro comp lift of that era is the steering drop setup, if you have the little pc of metal that usings bushings from the bottom of the steering drop bracket to the truck front crossmember, they will bend and pop the bushing very easily, look into the triple idler arm setup that rancho makes as a very worthwhile and trouble free up grade
Good luck man and i wil give the pro comp kit this, it rides really well, especially in the rough stuff, you just need to upgrade it to handle it structurally
GIT' R' DUN' /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
I installed a Pro Comp lift on my friends 88 K2500 a few years ago, i would NEVER buy a pro-comp IFS lift again because of the exact thing this gentleman is describing happening to my buddys truck as well
If you look at your lower procomp drop frame, in the bottom of it is two (1 on each side) bumpstops for the suspension too stop against when it is unloaded, problem is the original bumpstops were on the upper a-arm, not the lower a arm, now thats not a problem in itself (although if you notice all the newer top shelf kit's are leaving the upper control arm and it's bumstops and etc... in their stock location and using an extended steering knuckle setup to avoid having this exact problem) but the way pro comp designed it, the arms and cv's can now travel WAY farther then they were designed to
And as you have found out the hard way- if you are applying any power and sometimes even just coasting when the suspension unloads-POP goes the joint
Bad design by pro comp (i don't like there multi peice drop frames either, they shift when off roaded, if you have the capability, make sure the kit is bolted tight and alignable then weld the lower frame together)
The limiting straps, if set up right, should solve your problem. Just error on the side of less travel when setting them up
Another problem with the pro comp lift of that era is the steering drop setup, if you have the little pc of metal that usings bushings from the bottom of the steering drop bracket to the truck front crossmember, they will bend and pop the bushing very easily, look into the triple idler arm setup that rancho makes as a very worthwhile and trouble free up grade
Good luck man and i wil give the pro comp kit this, it rides really well, especially in the rough stuff, you just need to upgrade it to handle it structurally
GIT' R' DUN' /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
