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Hanging idle/coolant temp sensor

skyhigh4by

1/2 ton status
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I'm having a brutal high idle and hanging idle with my TBI. I'm in the process of data logging and noticed that my coolant temp sensor is reading 144f when I know for fact that it's hotter than that. My mechanical gauge is reading about 185 during cruise, I have a 180 t-stat, and when sitting my 195 efan switch is kicking on and off as it should.

I can reset the IAC and that works temporarily and then the high idle is back. Is that coolant temp sensor the culprit even though it's only about 40-60 degrees out?

Also BLM is way out to lunch (100 range) with no throttle and goes back to the 128 range as soon as throttle is cracked open.
 
If the temp sensor is bad, the computer is trying to warm tne truck up. Mine did that. Changed the sensor and problem was solved. Then taht one went bad reading high all the time. Would throw a CEL. Has been OK with another new one.
 
It's gonna continue to try to want to warm up even after that sensor is replaced if you continue using that 180* t-stat.
 
It's gonna continue to try to want to warm up even after that sensor is replaced if you continue using that 180* t-stat.

When I bought the motor used it had a 170 t-stat in it that was supplied with a prom from tbichips.com I could step up to a 195 stat then I guess I'll have to get a higher rated fan switch too. The issue I'm noticing though is that the current coolant temp sensor (which is new btw) is reading 60 Celsius when I have 2 other gauges that both say it's over 90 Celsius.

The problem seems to just come and go also. I could pull up to a gas pump and it will idle at 1500rpm but when I start it up again it's totally fine idling at 700rpm

The coolant temp sensor works as it's supposed to when it's warming the truck up. Starts fine when hot or cold too. I noticed though while data logging that first thing in the morning the computer reads 225 Celsius and as it warms up the number slowly goes down until it gets to 60 Celsius. Is the coolant temp sensor supposed to give an actual reading of the temp whether then engine is running or not? It's about 8 Celsius here in the mornings so I would imagine that the coolant that's been sitting over night would be about the same temp as outside air...
 
It's gonna continue to try to want to warm up even after that sensor is replaced if you continue using that 180* t-stat.



this.....

it will have trouble coming out of open loop... your mileage will suffer also...
 
When I bought the motor used it had a 170 t-stat in it that was supplied with a prom from tbichips.com I could step up to a 195 stat then I guess I'll have to get a higher rated fan switch too. The issue I'm noticing though is that the current coolant temp sensor (which is new btw) is reading 60 Celsius when I have 2 other gauges that both say it's over 90 Celsius.

The problem seems to just come and go also. I could pull up to a gas pump and it will idle at 1500rpm but when I start it up again it's totally fine idling at 700rpm

The coolant temp sensor works as it's supposed to when it's warming the truck up. Starts fine when hot or cold too. I noticed though while data logging that first thing in the morning the computer reads 225 Celsius and as it warms up the number slowly goes down until it gets to 60 Celsius. Is the coolant temp sensor supposed to give an actual reading of the temp whether then engine is running or not? It's about 8 Celsius here in the mornings so I would imagine that the coolant that's been sitting over night would be about the same temp as outside air...


Coolant temp should read actual or damn close to it. Can you see if it is actually going into closed loop? Mine goes closed loop at about 160, mainly due to the heated o2 sensor. The computer will not close the loop until the o2 sensors gives proper readings. If your o2 reads .45v all the time the computer will not go closed loop.
ta4e5y6y.jpg
 
I noticed though while data logging that first thing in the morning the computer reads 225 Celsius and as it warms up the number slowly goes down until it gets to 60 Celsius. Is the coolant temp sensor supposed to give an actual reading of the temp whether then engine is running or not? It's about 8 Celsius here in the mornings so I would imagine that the coolant that's been sitting over night would be about the same temp as outside air...
It should read same temp as outside first thing in the morning. And get warmer as truck warms up. Yours is backwards?

Something is wrong? :dunno:

Is the CTS correct for the EFI system? It should be mounted in intake near T stat housing. There is another one in head for the coolant gauge. They do read different and won't work properly if locations have switched.
 
Coolant temp should read actual or damn close to it. Can you see if it is actually going into closed loop? Mine goes closed loop at about 160, mainly due to the heated o2 sensor. The computer will not close the loop until the o2 sensors gives proper readings. If your o2 reads .45v all the time the computer will not go closed loop.
ta4e5y6y.jpg

Im using tunerproRT but my list of items on the dash is VERY limited. It doesn't tell me if its closed or open. It shows me TPS, CTS, IAC counts, INT, BLM, o2 cross counts, o2, MAP, Batt Volt, and RPM. Is there anyway I can open it up to show me more of whats going on? Im not too familiar with tunerproRT. It would be nice if it would show me the error codes if there are any and whether its open or closed loop.

It should read same temp as outside first thing in the morning. And get warmer as truck warms up. Yours is backwards?

Something is wrong? :dunno:

Is the CTS correct for the EFI system? It should be mounted in intake near T stat housing. There is another one in head for the coolant gauge. They do read different and won't work properly if locations have switched.

Yes my CTS is reading backwards I guess. The sensor is supposed to be for an 87 TBI 350 and it is in the intake beside the t-stat housing.

P.S. I have a 3 wire heated o2. Im pretty sure I told the parts guy 94 or 95 TBI truck for part #
 
Brian @ Tuned Performance is a member on thirdgen . org I am running a base PROM from him and just sent him a bunch of datalogs. He is going to be doing the tuning for me. He seams highly regarded on that board.
 
Or you could have asked me? I wrote the xdf and adx files for 1227747 ECM. If you have the latest all those dashboards and item lists with Error codes are there.
 
Or you could have asked me? I wrote the xdf and adx files for 1227747 ECM. If you have the latest all those dashboards and item lists with Error codes are there.

Dang! I didn't know we had a tuning guru over here. I often go to thirdgen for motor problems because theres a lot going on over there and they all recommended Tuned Performance.

I bought this motor/ECM second hand and it came with a TBIchips PROM and I wasn't happy with it.

Do you mean the latest version of tunerproRT? I have version 5.00..
 
Brain is a great guy to deal with and is a Tuner friend of mine. Taught him everything he knows! :haha: Tell him I said that...

Well it's always good to have latest software version... but I meant the TunerPro RT XDF file for making adjustments to bin. And ADX file for data logging.

Like these: Dam it the forum won't let me add them even Zipped?

Have to go here and get:
$42-1227747-V5.9.3.xdf
$42-1227747-V5.2.adx

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?304-1227747-ECM-Information-42
 
Brain is a great guy to deal with and is a Tuner friend of mine. Taught him everything he knows! :haha: Tell him I said that...

Well it's always good to have latest software version... but I meant the TunerPro RT XDF file for making adjustments to bin. And ADX file for data logging.

Like these: Dam it the forum won't let me add them even Zipped?

Have to go here and get:
$42-1227747-V5.9.3.xdf
$42-1227747-V5.2.adx

http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Injection/showthread.php?304-1227747-ECM-Information-42

I'll mention you next time we talk. Maybe it will keep him on his toes :haha:

I got my ALDL cable from reddevilriver and used his youtube videos to set up tuner pro RT. Im using the 42.ads data definition from the tuner pro website which I see in your post is for V4. So would I load this new definition you linked just the same as I did with the 42.ads?

Im pretty lost in this stuff lol
 
Load Definition file for the current ADX file. Where you would have to Import an ADS file.

Red devil river cables have a built in 10K switch that is not needed with this ECM and screws up the data log...
 
Load Definition file for the current ADX file. Where you would have to Import an ADS file.

Red devil river cables have a built in 10K switch that is not needed with this ECM and screws up the data log...

Im guessing thats the little jumper on the 2 pins? I want to take that off when data logging? Because I had that little jumper in place when I did all my data logging could that mean that they're showing false data? Do I need to redo them before Brian starts tweaking stuff?

Im using a windows laptop for data logging but I use mac for everything else so Im constantly jumping back and forth and honestly I don't understand windows/PCs very well.

I think I had it loaded right. I downloaded the .ads file from tuner pro website but followed reddevilrivers youtube steps to convert it to .adx Along to the top it says..

"TunerPro RT - No Bin Selected l No XDF Selected l ADX File - 1227747_42.adx"

Thanks for your help
 
I've never owned a reddevil river cable because of this issue so I'm not sure. Ask him and find out how to use the cable with no 10K.

Yes, you need a data log without 10K. 10K add's spark amongst other things like raises idle...

You had the ADX file loaded correctly. Just use the new one, it's only 100 times better. I have over 100 hours into those 2 files. There are a few things that will not work until you apply the Patch/Hack to a bin/chip and use it. It adds things to data stream like Spark Advance and fuel BPW which is then used as Fuel Injector Duty Cycle.
 
I've never owned a reddevil river cable because of this issue so I'm not sure. Ask him and find out how to use the cable with no 10K.

Yes, you need a data log without 10K. 10K add's spark amongst other things like raises idle...

You had the ADX file loaded correctly. Just use the new one, it's only 100 times better. I have over 100 hours into those 2 files. There are a few things that will not work until you apply the Patch/Hack to a bin/chip and use it. It adds things to data stream like Spark Advance and fuel BPW which is then used as Fuel Injector Duty Cycle.

I can vouch for marks files. They are 10 times better than the stock ones.
 
I've never owned a reddevil river cable because of this issue so I'm not sure. Ask him and find out how to use the cable with no 10K.

Yes, you need a data log without 10K. 10K add's spark amongst other things like raises idle...

You had the ADX file loaded correctly. Just use the new one, it's only 100 times better. I have over 100 hours into those 2 files. There are a few things that will not work until you apply the Patch/Hack to a bin/chip and use it. It adds things to data stream like Spark Advance and fuel BPW which is then used as Fuel Injector Duty Cycle.

I can't get the new one to work. Keeps trying to save it as .php

How do I load it in to TunerproRT?
 
Right click and save file as.

TP won't load a .php, have to get it downloaded right first.
 

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