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Hard brake line routing for rear discs

TX Mudder

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I have eldo calipers and the AZK rear brake hose kit. Because I have TSM calipers, I had to be a little inventive with mounting the kit and still clearing the ebrake cable, but i have that all worked out.
The brake line faces forward, towards the front of the truck. So, the hardline will go forward....and then where? Just accross the front of the axle? That seems a little vulnerable.
Over the leaf springs? That seems like it would work fine until I have to remove the springs or something and then it would be a huge PITA.
Or do I try ot loop it back to the rear of the axle and behind the axle, like I remember the stock line being? I worry about weaking the hard brake line by putting too much of a bend in it, plus it just seems like it would look odd.

Any ideas? I ran one line already in front and like I said, it just looks a little vulnerable.
-- Mike
 
Here are mine these are where they were stock.

3137102_0246.JPG
 
If I route mine like that, I will have to make a 180 degree bend to do so. I may end up having to because I don't see a better way to do it.
-- Mike
 
Use a bender and you should be able to use it. You ARE using a hose on both sides in back, right?
 
Yeah you "NEED" the rubber hoses so the caliper can move. hard lines will stress and break eventually. You should only have to 90* the hard line towards the front of the truck then go to the hoses. I fabbed up some brackets for the hard line to hose mating and they bolt to my bracket. Hard to see, but here is mine again.
3137101_0186.JPG
 
I agree. That's why I asked if he was using a hose. I'll put it simply.

Calipers move dude. Steel line doesn't like that. A hose is necessary.
 
The shorter the hose the better, in my opinion. I don't like having a big loop in it because it promotes junk getting hooked onit. My setup is about as vulnerable as stock. I don't have an emergency brake and this is on a ten bolt.

brakehoserouting.jpg
 
He can get away with steel line if he pigtailed it with at least 3 coils and didn't fasten it until after the coils. The calipers don't move that much. The body moves far more than a caliper does and there is what, six coils from the master cylinder down to the frame? Furd and Duldge of the same era used fewer coils...

But it's still a bad idea. Especially when you can get short hoses for $12. You'd have to figure out a way to seal it to the caliper without rednecking it.
 
Yeah I agree on the short hoses. I used the ones of a 78 K20 cause they were FREE /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Heres how I did it.. Out with the hard lines, in with the braided steel.

(derbinator brackets, K20 front calipers and rotors, no ebrake, 14FF, and no problems! It wasnt very expensive either (considering..) and Id do it again exactly the same way)

brakelines.jpg


questions, comments?
 
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brakelines.jpg


questions, comments?

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Whats with the threads on your U-bolts???
 
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He can get away with steel line if he pigtailed it with at least 3 coils and didn't fasten it until after the coils. The calipers don't move that much. The body moves far more than a caliper does and there is what, six coils from the master cylinder down to the frame? Furd and Duldge of the same era used fewer coils...

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Yep. 84K10, take a look at the A2 HMMWV. AM General does the same thing; a small pigtail at the end. No flex hose at all /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Of course it makes removing the caliper that much more of a PITA. Who wants to crack the lines and re-bleed the system ever time you change pads, etc. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
 
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Whats with the threads on your U-bolts???

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They look marred but they are brand new. I had them primered so they wouldnt rust and when I installed the new nylock nuts, it messed up the "paint" job..

Surprised you didnt give me grief on the long bolts thru the brake hub thing on the end of the axle tube.

mike
 
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