hard brake line sizes and options

[73redblaze]

i want to run all new hard lines for my brakes. anyone know what size the tube is and what size the ends are? i would like to run all the same size tube and ends but i dont think they are all the same. anyone know i kit i can buu with the tubing and the fittings? or a part #?

 

[BoondocK5]

I'm playing this game right now.
I know for a fact the front brake lines are #4 fittings on the end. I just had to buy banjo bolts. and they do fit.

 

[coloradoblazers]

I just replaced my rear line from the fitting right by the fuel filter all the way to the soft lines at the rear calipers. (87 K5 with 1-tons)

The line is 1/4 inch. After doing some research I used Poly Armour brand
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...-Poly-Armour_16190008-P_N3106A_A|GRP2037_____

It is easy to bend and flare.

The fittings are 1/4 : http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_x_9071916-P_x_x

1/4 in union:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/we...n---Pik-a-Nut_9074694-P_N4015A_A|GRP2037_____

If you don't have a cutting tool or a flaring tool, most parts stores loan them out.

The tee fitting on the rear axle is a smaller size than 1/4 inch, so if you are replacing those hardlines, you will need a different size fitting ( I went with ORD's long lines from the calipers to the fitting).

Once you have everything bent up, tighten and loosen the fittings a few times to seat them and you should be good to go.
HTH

 

[chevydan3]

If I'm Remembering correctly, from the master to the prop valve are 1/4", prop valve to front wheels are 3/16", prop to rear hose is 1/4", rear hose to wheels are 3/16"

Sent from my BlackBerry 9810 using Tapatalk

 

[Fordum]

If its stock, stupid statement, few trucks around here are, but if it was, you could go with one of the kits that they sell.
Either in stock material, or stainless.
All the right lengths, and with all fittings already on.

I have posted here about some non-steel line that is DOT approved that does not have the corrosion problem, and is almost as easy to work with and flare as copper, but its 2 AM, and I need to get to bed, so I'm not going to look for the link until tomorrow.




Well, couldn't stand it, checked my bookmarks and found it.

http://www.fedhillusa.com/

 

[diesel4me]

On 73-87 trucks,The lines are 3/16" that run to the front brakes,and one off the master cylinder is also,the other one going from the master to the proportioning valve is 1/4",as is the main line running from the proportioning valve to the rear tee fitting at the diff.................................................................................................................................................................................................................be aware the master cylinder ports and at least one on the proportioning valve are not the standard sized fittings that come on ready made lines,they are usually 1/2x20 and 9/16x18 thread--you'll need adapters to allow the fittings to fit the ports --or you can do what I do--cut the old lines close to the original fittings and use a 6 point socket to remove them ,so you can re-use them,by transfering them to the new line and re-flaring it......................................................................................................They now have nickel/copper brake line available at Autozone and other parts stores,that runs about 10-15 bucks more than the usual rolls that have the poly armour green coating on them..(which in my experience lasts only slightly longer than "plain" lines or galvanized ones--salts eats ALL of them here in 2-3 years,less if you use ready made lines with fittings,the rolls in bulk are much thicker walled)..they claim the nickel/copper lines are "lifetime",but I wouldn't bet on it......................................................................................................I saw a Earl's brake hose in a friends garage still in the package collecting dust,that was for a 68-72 Chevelle or similar GM car,it was stainless braided steel..he was going to chuck it,it came in a box of assorted stuff he bought at a swap meet...it'll replace the one on the rear of my '82 GMC K2500 perfectly,and I'm going to install it soon,before the old one that is cracked finally lets go...but I need new front hoses too,and my master cylinder leaks fliud out of the rear chamber,so I am planning to do it all at once so I wont have the hassle of bleeding it several times..I think I already spent more on brake fluid than a rebuilt master cylinder costs!....

 

[496truck]

It's funny how people in the southwest don't know their brake line parts and sizes right off the bat without looking at them.

Out here, having a tube cutting/flaring kit in the toolbox is mandatory. And the skills to bend, cut and flare brake lines are taught early in life.

 

[73k5blazer]

It's funny how people in the southwest don't know their brake line parts and sizes right off the bat without looking at them.

Out here, having a tube cutting/flaring kit in the toolbox is mandatory. And the skills to bend, cut and flare brake lines are taught early in life.

That's is sadly, true.

If your looking for a kit, inline tube is a great company, full line set $185 in stainless. That's all the hard lines for the whole vehicle, cut, pre-bent flared and fittings installed and stainless wire wrap in all the areas OEM had protective wire wrap. Kinda hard to beat if IMHO, never have to do brake lines again.

The nickle/copper alloy lines work nice as well, but I don't know of a company doing pre-bent stuff. And for the price your gonna pay for the various sizes you'll need, it's cheaper to just go stainless. OEM's like volvo,audi use the copper/alloy stuff because in large quantities it's cheaper than stainless. Stainless is still better, especially for an off-road truck where it might get beat up or snagged or rubbed on. The copper/alloy stuff is pretty soft and can kink easily, and chafee through if you don't support it properly and let it rub/vibrate on things.

 

[wazzabie]

+1 with inline tube

 

[diesel4me]

Also,if you dont feel like saving the old line fittings on those that aren't the standard sized ones,instead of buying those brass adapter fittings,you can buy the special line nuts from parts stores that fit the 3/16" tubing that have the larger 1/2x20 or 9/16x18 threads on them--some stores now have ready made lines with the 2 different fittings already installed too.........................................................................................................................................................................................................I may be replacing more brake lines,after a stupid mistake I made the other day..I "borrowed" one of the batteries from my diesel suburban to use on my riding mower ,its battery is fubared,and I'm too poor to buy a new one--after I was done mowing,I went to put the battery back in the truck,and the positive cable,which I had carefully placed where it couldn't touch ground (as the other battery was still connected),it sprang out of my hand and went ZOT ,right against the brake line coming off the master cyl,where its coiled up like a spring................so far no leaks,but I dont really trust that line now that its been "arced" in that spot!.............................................more frigging WORK I didn't NEED!...:mad...of all the jobs on my truck I dislike most,replacing the steel brake lines ranks 2nd,right after removing seized spring bolts from leaf spring bushings without a torch or sawsall...thankfully springs dont need to be replaced every few years like brake lines do here...

 

[chulisohombre]

i was gona say inline tube for the whole kit ot lmc truck.its just as easy to go to the parts store with the lines you need and match them up as well.you would have to just bend them yourself though.its not that hard.i use a 1/2 inch box wrench and it bends good that way without kinking.

 

[73redblaze]

Thanks for all the great info. i think i have all the info i need to get started. il let you know how it goes