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hard to shift

greengiant0311

greengiant0311

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
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Camp Warner
Hey everybody. Well as we all know with this lifestyle, if it aint one thing its another. After getting my engine finally running right my transmission is acting up. Its an sm465 and it is a b**ch to shift. I have looked into the search option here with little result. So if anyone out there can help please let me know. Thanks
 
There are a few classic causes. First, does it get easier if the engine is off? Or if the transfer case is in neutral? A dragging clutch will cause the synchronizers to not let you shift.

Next, is the lube. Is it full, and does it have the right type? Some of them are real touchy about what type lube you put in it.

Other than that, try to describe it in more detail. Do the gears grind, is it just certain gears?
Are there times when its easy? That sort of thing.
 
Easier to shift if its off. Not sure about oil, ive always used 80-90 wt in it. It does grind when putting in Reverse. Havent tried it with t-case in neutral. Also notice have to push clutch all the way to the floor to shift, never used to be that way
 
Might be time for a clutch. Sounds like it's not releasing all the way. Do you have a hydraulic clutch or mechanical? If hydro, check the fluid level. Mechanical you should be able to adjust the linkage to get more throw from the pedal. But most likely it just needs a clutch.
 
Its manual, i was thinking clutch with the excess travel but how do i figure out for sure? Is there an average life for a clutch? I know it depends on amount of driving and all but wondering if there is an average. I know the one in it now is around 7 years old
 
Depends on a lot of things. Mileage, type of driving (city/highway/off road/lots of hills, etc) quality of clutch you put in. I'm sure there's other factors too. If you off road it a bunch mud and water can decrease the life expectancy of a clutch too. The weight of these big old trucks doesn't help either. Trucks use up clutches faster than little cars. Hope you figure it out though:waytogo:
 
Actually, to be nit picky, the clutch is not the problem. Its doing fine. When a clutch goes bad, it slips.
In your case, its not releasing. The end result is pretty much the same, because if you have to replace the part that is worn, you replace it all anyway.

Most likely the throwout bearing is wearing out. You may even hear it. Turn off everything that makes noise, and listen when you push the clutch in with the engine running.

If you hear a grinding, or feel a vibration, or just a funny noise that goes away when you release the clutch, the throwout bearing is headed south.

However, most clutches are adjustable. If so, you want to adjust it so that you feel just a small amount of free pedal just as you release it all the way.

It must not be tight all the way up, or you will burn up the clutch.

Also, don't drive it any more than you have to without adjusting it. You will burn out the syncroes, and it costs a lot more to rebuild the transmission than replace the clutch.
 
Fordum said:
Actually, to be nit picky, the clutch is not the problem. Its doing fine. When a clutch goes bad, it slips.
In your case, its not releasing. The end result is pretty much the same, because if you have to replace the part that is worn, you replace it all anyway.

Most likely the throwout bearing is wearing out. You may even hear it. Turn off everything that makes noise, and listen when you push the clutch in with the engine running.

If you hear a grinding, or feel a vibration, or just a funny noise that goes away when you release the clutch, the throwout bearing is headed south.

However, most clutches are adjustable. If so, you want to adjust it so that you feel just a small amount of free pedal just as you release it all the way.

It must not be tight all the way up, or you will burn up the clutch.

Also, don't drive it any more than you have to without adjusting it. You will burn out the syncroes, and it costs a lot more to rebuild the transmission than replace the clutch.
Click to expand...

good call, sorry I was thinking backwards. I knew it wasn't releasing all the way...
 
Fordum said:
Actually, to be nit picky, the clutch is not the problem. Its doing fine. When a clutch goes bad, it slips.
In your case, its not releasing. The end result is pretty much the same, because if you have to replace the part that is worn, you replace it all anyway.

Most likely the throwout bearing is wearing out. You may even hear it. Turn off everything that makes noise, and listen when you push the clutch in with the engine running.

If you hear a grinding, or feel a vibration, or just a funny noise that goes away when you release the clutch, the throwout bearing is headed south.

However, most clutches are adjustable. If so, you want to adjust it so that you feel just a small amount of free pedal just as you release it all the way.

It must not be tight all the way up, or you will burn up the clutch.

Also, don't drive it any more than you have to without adjusting it. You will burn out the syncroes, and it costs a lot more to rebuild the transmission than replace the clutch.
Click to expand...
Actually i have noticed a whining sound when i shift and when im at a stop and release the clutch with the truck in neutral it lessens. Is that the throw out bearing?
 
could be a pilot bearing freezing up on the input shaft so it doesnt let the input shaft stop turning when the clutch is depressed.
 
Ok, so i guess the question is where to start? Seems like it could be a lot of things so far. How do i pinpoint the issue. Cant just throw money at it. Was saving for a new rifle too, go figure.
 
79bonanza said:
could be a pilot bearing freezing up on the input shaft so it doesnt let the input shaft stop turning when the clutch is depressed.
Click to expand...

Yep, thats rare, but it can happen. But he is having to press the pedal down farther before it releases, so odds are its the throwout.

And yes, sit in neutral, foot off the clutch, engine running. Lightly press on the pedal, and you should hear the noise come and go with the pedal. Thats the throwout.

If you have enough adjustment, it may run a very long time before it fails. It only turns when you have the pedal pushed in with it running.

On my old Jeep, when it started making noise, I started shifting into neutral at red lights and taking my foot off to make it last longer.

I could usually baby it until the end of hunting season. But when it started making the gears grind in first, which was not synchronized on that transmission, like yours grinds in reverse, it was time to do a clutch job.
 
Well, first try to adjust the clutch. If it goes away with adjustment, then its the throwout. If adjustment does not help, then its the pilot.

They are both fixed the same way and at the same time.
You always do everything at once. Clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing and pilot bearing, if its a bearing.
If its a bushing, and its still good, leave it in.

Lots of times you can get everything you need in a kit. You can do it yourself if you have access to a transmission jack or a reasonable facsimile.

Check rockauto to see what the parts would cost.

But, try to adjust it first.
 
greengiant0311 said:
So where do i start if i do an adjustment for now?
Click to expand...

At this point, you reached the end of my knowledge with a resounding thud....

If I were there, I could tell you in about 5 minutes. Its usually fairly obvious. But it has been so long since I had to adjust a clutch on a Chevy, I don't have a clue.
Last time I was working on a manual Chevy, was probably 1968

Someone here should chime in with instructions. If you want to tinker with it tonight and no one here shows up in a couple of minutes, then just examine the linkage from the clutch pedal to the transmission.
Somewhere along there you will probably see an adjustment.

You want the clutch to move farther when you press the pedal, so that should give you a clue as to which way to adjust it.
 
Fordum said:
At this point, you reached the end of my knowledge with a resounding thud....

If I were there, I could tell you in about 5 minutes. Its usually fairly obvious. But it has been so long since I had to adjust a clutch on a Chevy, I don't have a clue.
Last time I was working on a manual Chevy, was probably 1968

Someone here should chime in with instructions. If you want to tinker with it tonight and no one here shows up in a couple of minutes, then just examine the linkage from the clutch pedal to the transmission.
Somewhere along there you will probably see an adjustment.

You want the clutch to move farther when you press the pedal, so that should give you a clue as to which way to adjust it.
Click to expand...

Same story here, mine's hydro... I think that the adjustment is on the rod from the pedal to the z-bar but I'm not 100% on that. Just take a look around from the pedal until you get to the bell housing. You're bound to find something that can be adjusted.:waytogo:
 
You're bound to find something that can be adjusted.:waytogo:
Click to expand...
And if you can't, just get a big hammer and start adjusting it anyway.......:D
 
The adjustment is at the rod between the Z-bar linkage and the release fork. The rod is threaded. To get a good feel for how it all works set you park brake, chock the wheels front and back and while you lay under the truck have a helper push the clutch pedal in and let it out while you watch. You'll very quickly understand how to get more 'release' out of the linkage.

Way back when I had mechanical linkage I had a similar issue with the clutch releasing less etc. and it turned out the pivot bolt on the bell that the Z-bar linkage rides on had failed. It began to crack and over a short period of time my clutch adjustment got worse and worse. I ended up on the side of the road, but was lucky enough to have a 1/2" bolt that worked as a good "stand-in".

it just could be a lot of wear in the various linkages, pivots, etc down there which has lessened the total distance the linkage is able to release the clutch. Check each pivot point while you're down there.
 
My old Jeep had a heavy stamped sheet metal fork with a dimple that a ball ended rod sticking out of the transmission fit in for a pivot.

One day, I ran out of adjustment. Figured it was the throwout, so we dropped the transmission and put in a clutch kit.

Worked, but it was right at the end of the adjustment.
After we pulled it and put it back twice, we finally realized that we were not putting it in wrong and started looking at other things.
Finally found that the ball had worn through the fork.

Cleaned up the dimple, and brazed up the hole. Then used a big drill bit to reshape the brass.

Brass, pivoting on polished cast iron with a little grease, never wore again.
 
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