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Hardlining the front brakes.

Stomis

Stomis

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So I know I need to keep the soft lines on the calipers so the wheels can turn, duh. But what part number do I need for a soft brakeline thats going to be just typical 3/16 line fittings on it. Obviously I dont need a banjo fitting I just need to go from the block about 1-1/2ft long I would guess down to the center of the axle.

Does anyone have a part number for this? All the numbers people have mentioned before seem to be for long soft lines with a banjo fitting.
 
Stomis said:
So I know I need to keep the soft lines on the calipers so the wheels can turn, duh. But what part number do I need for a soft brakeline thats going to be just typical 3/16 line fittings on it. Obviously I dont need a banjo fitting I just need to go from the block about 1-1/2ft long I would guess down to the center of the axle.

Does anyone have a part number for this? All the numbers people have mentioned before seem to be for long soft lines with a banjo fitting.
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Are you doing a single drop or double drop in the middle? Single, then you can use a rear flex line with the "T" on the end. That's what my blazer is using.
 
cybrfire said:
Are you doing a single drop or double drop in the middle? Single, then you can use a rear flex line with the "T" on the end. That's what my blazer is using.
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I'm gonna use a double as to keep everything proportioned stock off the master cylinder.
 
Stomis said:
I'm gonna use a double as to keep everything proportioned stock off the master cylinder.
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Single from the master, eliminate the more than likely non functioning proportioning valve, single on down to the axle and split.:D
 
Stomis said:
Super. I'll just call and bother you again :P Crossmember came out good btw. I cant believe how much clearance I gained just holding next to the stocker.
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Good to hear it!
 
cybrfire said:
Single from the master, eliminate the more than likely non functioning proportioning valve, single on down to the axle and split.:D
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When you did this did you completely remove the proportioning valve and just run a hardline straight to the rear or did you still run the rear line through the valve?
 
I'm confused at what's going on here? What are you "hardlining"? Just running line from the master to both axles?
 
USSkoval said:
I'm confused at what's going on here? What are you "hardlining"? Just running line from the master to both axles?
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You move your soft lines from the frame to the axle, then run hardlines to the center of the axle and then softlines from the center to the frame. It allows you to not use spendy ass long brake lines that fall into tires when you flex alot.
 
Ah, I see now. So it's really not a cheaper (much) solution due to the extra flex line(s), it's just a better solution because of placement.
 
USSkoval said:
Ah, I see now. So it's really not a cheaper (much) solution due to the extra flex line(s), it's just a better solution because of placement.
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Well I wouldnt say that. You can get standard rubber lines because you dont have to worry about the tires coming in contact. Plus they can be much shorter in the center.
 
Sorry to thread jack but on the subject of the proportioning valve............. how can you tell when its not working? I had my truck on the dyno last week and we could stand on the brake pedal and the rear wheels wouldn't stop. I have a myriad of brake issues and sketchy work from the previous owner, but I'm wondering if this is a symptom?
 
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