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Harmonic Balancer removal and installation.

A

arveetek

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During my turbo install, I replaced the harmonic balancer. It was showing signs of squished out rubber, with pieces of the rubber missing in places. This is a very bad thing for the 6.2L... it can lead to a broken crankshaft.

I purchased a new balancer, part # 14022671, from the local Chevy dealer for $99. That was cheaper than gmpartsdirect.com, with the shipping. List price is around $150. I showed the parts guy the printout of Gmpartsdirect.com, which showed a wholesale price of $87, IIRC. He dropped his $120 down to $99. That was good enough for me.

It's not that hard to replace the balancer: I removed the fan shroud, fan and clutch, loosened and removed all the drive belts, removed the pulley off of the balancer, removed the crankshaft bolt, and pulled off the balancer using a balancer/steering wheel remover.

I then installed a new oil seal, an important step not to be overlooked!

I then oiled up the crankshaft, and the inside of the damper, to help aid in installation.

I made an installation tool out of a spare crankshaft bolt, and a 6" piece of 1/2" all-thread. I welded the all-thread to the head of the crankshaft bolt, threaded the tool onto the crankshaft, started the damper on by hand being sure to align the key, and then slipped on the large washer, and 1/2" washer, and then the 1/2" nut. I tightened the 1/2" nut down, and that pulled the damper into place quite easily. Once I ran out of threads, I removed the tool, and reinstalled the original crankshaft bolt. Be sure to torque it to proper specs.

I then reinstalled the pulley, belts, fan and clutch, and fan shroud. Piece of cake!

Here's a pic of the old and new balancers:

http://community.webshots.com/photo/153303040/165041214iOcnhq

If your balancer looks like my old one, with the squished out, missing chunks of rubber, then replace it ASAP!!

Here's a pic of the installation tool I made:

http://community.webshots.com/photo/153303040/165041305rcUkmf

Casey
 
Hey Casey. I finally made the jump to orange over here. Glad to see another DP'er. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Hey David!

I saw a post of yours above, and thought to myself, "Who's AgDieseler?" Then I saw your sig, and I thought, "I know that guy!" /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

Welcome! This is another fine place for fellow 6.2L owners to hang out!

Casey
 
Thanks for the write-up! I am in the middle of replacing my harmonic balancer and seal now.

Do you know the torque spec for the harmonic balancer/crankshaft bolt?

Thanks!
Richard
 
140-162 ft. lbs on 82-84 models, and 200 ft. lbs on 85 and newer models. I'm not sure why the different specs. I don't think there's any difference in the parts between these years, but I think that GM decided to make that bolt tighter in 85. So I believe that 200 ft. lbs is the recommended spec for all engines now.

Casey
 
Thanks! I'll tighten my crankshaft bolt tonite. I got the new balancer and seal installed last night.

Here is some more info:
1) I ordered my parts from GMPartsDirect.com. Here is what I ordered...
--------------------------------------------------------
Part: 14022671*
Category: Engine Crankshaft and Camshaft Balancer
Description: DAMPER
Min.Qty: 1
Unit Price: $81.48
Quantity: 1
Ext.Price: $81.48
Core Charge: $0.00
--------------------------------------------------------
Part: 10191640*
Category: Engine Front Cover and Crankshaft Seal
Description: SEAL ASM
Min.Qty: 1
Unit Price: $5.92
Quantity: 1
Ext.Price: $5.92
Core Charge: $0.00
--------------------------------------------------------
The total price including shipping and NC tax was $117.77.

2) I used the steering wheel/balancer puller just like you did. No problem.

3) I had to get a seal puller from the local auto parts store ($6.99) to get that seal out. This tool is like a bar with a 2" hook on the end. I had to "pry" the seal in a couple places with it, but it finally came out.

4) I used a 2" socket and hammer to install the new seal. Just tapping the edge of the seal with a hammer did NOT work. This socket was *just* big enough, which was good, because it is the biggest socket I have. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

5) I used a Moroso harmonic balancer install tool (that I already had laying in a box in the barn) to put on the balancer. It worked great, except that the insert that threaded into the crank got in there tight, and I couldn't remove it using the screwdriver slot, so I had to use Vice-grips. But this did not damage the tool - just had to clean up the threads with a file after the Vice-grips.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MOR-61744&N=120%20303542

Hope this helps!
Richard
 
Good info!

I was able to use a small screwdriver to remove the old seal. Just tapped it in between the seal and the front cover and it just popped out. However, I did have a heck of a time installing the new seal. I just tapped around the edges with a hammer like I normally instally grease seals, but with the crankshaft sticking way out, it was not an easy job. I didn't have a socket big enough, but after some hindsight, I'm sure I had a piece of pipe laying around that I could have cut off and would have worked just fine!

Casey
 
Not a hi-jacker... here's my pulley/tors-damper...

Alot of cars suffer from this prob. Even cCorvairs, and the oil filter is only 1/2" away. Yup, loss of oil, kablooey :eek1: .
My wifes '90 Cierra 3.3. Taiwan (replacement Balancer) was machined too large. So much for AdvanceAuto...
Here are pix of my mid '86 up 3 groove tosional damper. $200 smakarooneys... Stiil looking for a good used...

6.2 Crank pulley-before-after 005.jpg

6.2 Crank pulley-before-after 001.jpg
 
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