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Harmonic damper / balancer installation, more answers than questions

dremu

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For the benefit of others doing searches, here's another edition of "What Emu found while doing this."

Whilst under the truck looking at some other things, I happened to notice that the rubber bonding on the harmonic damper was unbonding, trying to exit the truck. (I guess it was tired of my antics, kinda like an exwife :dunno: )

IMG_0141.JPG


That big split in the front of the pic should be the dead giveaway. :doah:

I ended up removing the V-belts, the fan and clutch, and the pulley on the water pump and of course the one on the crankshaft. The radiator stayed in place, access being made easier because my fan shroud is all chopped up for fan fitment. [My drivetrain is angled a smidge funny since I put in the Doubler. I suspect a short body lift would actually HELP in this case, allow me to level things out.]

In general, the cordless impact is my friend, ohhh it is my friend. Ratcheting wrenches are also my friends.

Of particular interest is that the instructions for the damper are very clear that they EXPECT you to heat it. It's listed as optional if you have an installer tool, but even then they suggest it.

They direct to either immerse it in boiling water for 15 minutes, or put it in a pre-heated oven for 15 minutes at the lowest temperature, max 250* F or 120* C. I would imagine that the temperature limit keeps the rubber from melting.

I set my oven to 200* or so, and the thing went on fairly well. About halfway on I did have to nudge it with a mallet, but I had very little room to swing, so I wasn't applying tons of force. Once I got it close I used the bolt to draw it on and slid right along (the crankshaft had been previously oiled per instructions.)

In any event, yeah, in a perfect world I'd use the install tool, but for the shadetree mechanic, heat-in-moderation is your friend more than the BFH.

-- A
 
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Or you could have borrowed my installation tool. :deal:

You were on the list if I'd had trouble. I found several of your past posts whilst searching, including part # recommends from Summit, thank you very much.

But if I'm not mistaken you were on vacation at the time anyway :haha:

Plus, you still haven't come up and bought me lunch for that oil jug holder I'm supposed to give you... :D

-- A
 
You were on the list if I'd had trouble. I found several of your past posts whilst searching, including part # recommends from Summit, thank you very much.

But if I'm not mistaken you were on vacation at the time anyway :haha:

Plus, you still haven't come up and bought me lunch for that oil jug holder I'm supposed to give you... :D

-- A

Yes, I was on vacation but got home early saturday monring (2:00am).

Yes, still need to come grab that oil jug holder from ya. Hopefully soon. I have to work on my car this weekend (big project with tune-up and waterpump on my 96 impala). Gotta love GM for putting the distributor behind the waterpump and making changing plug wires a 4 hour chore.
 
Yes, I was on vacation but got home early saturday monring (2:00am).

Yes, still need to come grab that oil jug holder from ya. Hopefully soon. I have to work on my car this weekend (big project with tune-up and waterpump on my 96 impala). Gotta love GM for putting the distributor behind the waterpump and making changing plug wires a 4 hour chore.

Dang, I thought our trucks were bad with the dizzy back at the firewall... god knows there's enough bruises on my fat belly from leaning over :haha:

Good luck with that newfangled thing :D

-- A
 
My older Motor's repair manuals stated you could use a brake cylinder hone to slightly enlarge a damper with a tight bore,to ease installation,but they warned about taking off too much metal,if you do,it'll wobble and cause a lot of trouble with seal leaks at the timing cover ,and it could muck up the crank if overdone.....................................................................................................I wouldn't reccomend this procedure on a pre-68 small block that had no center bolt to hold the damper on!--my friend just replaced a timing chain in a '68 Chevelle with a stock 327,it had no bolt ,nor a tapped hole in the crank either...the only way to put the damper on these engines is the old 10 lb sledge and a wood block method,being careful not to trash the main bearing thrust surfaces in the process..--he hated working on that engine,because there is no way to turn it over by the crank unless you have one of those special sockets that go on the keyway..he used a "Gator-Grip" socket,it worked,but it muffed up the key,so he had to buy a new woodruff key...............................................................................................................................................................................................................I have seen one balancer on a 327 vette come off while doing a burnout at 6000+ rpms once...guy had to chase it down the street for 1/4 mile,after it flew off,trashed the radiator and hood,and went flying down the street...I'm amazed more haven't flown off ,GM must have decided it was worth drilling and tapping the crank for a bolt after some must have caused injury or worse?...
 
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