Been thinking about certain things to make the blazer a more comfortable rig while out exploring. One has anyone every add a rear ac unit to the k5? either a custom one thats out from like the center console or even fit a rear unit from a blazer? Has anyone made a custom cabin air filter for these old rigs? Driving behind other rigs in the dirt with the ac brings in a lot of dust. Also has anyone converted the top to a flip top tent? I know roof top tent are all the rage these days but it created a higher center of gravity and has the chance of getting caught on trees and what not.
CK5
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Has anyone ever done these thing to a k5
- Thread starter white90burb
- Start date
There were a couple rigs on here in the past with some custom rear AC setups.
Martin
Martin
For dust, just use "max" - that's recirculation mode. That's all I do and don't have any dust problems with windows up. I don't think a K5 needs a rear AC when the front is working properly. To work like a Sub rear air, the vents have to be on the ceiling and that's kind of like committing to never take the top off. You could put something on the side of the bed but will it actually do anything when all your gear is loaded?
There was a guy here making a flip-top tent out of two stock hard tops, but he never finished it. If you can ever find one, 4WD campers used to make a drop-in camper that was barely bigger than the stock hardtop when it was done. I've only seen them in the West half of the US, mostly in Colorado, so maybe that' where they were made?
There was a guy here making a flip-top tent out of two stock hard tops, but he never finished it. If you can ever find one, 4WD campers used to make a drop-in camper that was barely bigger than the stock hardtop when it was done. I've only seen them in the West half of the US, mostly in Colorado, so maybe that' where they were made?
I thought about a 4x4 camper but I have a full vert. I'm putting all brand new ac components in so I'll see how it is when I'm done. I'm just thinking a rear unit would be nice in the summer if I had a flip top.
take the rear a/c from a like year Suburban. rear evaporator, lines, fan, wiring harness, resistor from the front evaporator case, fan switch. The only thing you'd have to fab is some lines (2) going to the rear unit.
I am doing this to my 'burb, retro-fitting from my junker. The harness can be removed intact. Just need to remove the headliners in the donor 'burb to get to them.
I am doing this to my 'burb, retro-fitting from my junker. The harness can be removed intact. Just need to remove the headliners in the donor 'burb to get to them.
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Do you have any pics of the how you have the rear ac? Havnt seen one in a while dont remember how far they stick out. Also I take it you dont remove the top anymore?
Why have a full convertible if you're going to add rear air and never take the top off?
Just curious.
Just curious.just random ideas that pop into my head. none of it will probably happen though.
I've seen a few full verts that someone put an A/C unit on the roof ,from a salvage yard RV,or conversion van.....all self contained,so the roof can still come off,and they aren't that heavy...you'd need a 12V quick dissconnect like a trailer plug for the power and ground..
It apart right now. It mounts just like the Suburban, uses the cover and the hoses go down the back corner. If I want to take the top off it 4 screws and four bolts and set it on the carpet. I had a jeep before, got enough of the no top 100+ degree summers.
Those basically ALL run on 120VAC and need at least 15A to start. They are never run on batteries or a 12V system. Go to any RV site and ask how to run the A/C when not on shore power and the answer is always "you don't." That's like a 2000W inverter minimum (assuming you have the right magic starting caps) or about 130A continuous running current from a 12V system. If you want an RV A/C unit on the roof, install a 2-4kW generator in the rig.
The way to do it would be to find a small one. The standard ones are 13.5kBTU, but they do make ones for just a bedroom that are 7kBTU and only need like 60% the power of the big ones. They are also offered in low profile, which would be the way to go. Actually if I was doing it I would get parts from like a GMT 800 burb and just do the rear evap in a box on the side. Shortening lines might be possible with just compression fittings.
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This has me wondering, any of you guys familiar with big trucks? Think pre-80s, with roof-mounted AC, What all was involved with those? as long as it had a self contained condenser that would work, Wouldn't it?
Even if it did need a grill mounted condenser, I supposed you could rig a shutoff valve so it could come off still.
The big white boxes on the cab.
Fun fact, I believe this is the first model 359 built.
Even if it did need a grill mounted condenser, I supposed you could rig a shutoff valve so it could come off still.
The big white boxes on the cab.
Fun fact, I believe this is the first model 359 built.
Took the words outta my mouth!
I'm thinking 130A is not a problem for these guys...(just guessing)
