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Has anyone installed a Stak 3 speed transfer Case?

dbreid

1/2 ton status
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Dec 26, 2005
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San Mateo CA
All,
First of all, this is my first post in CK5 (I actually signed up and paid just because I was curious about this exact topic!). I want to compliment you all on a very nice forum, with lots of friendly knowledgeable folks. :)

I have a 1989 3/4 Ton Suburban, which is Basically stock, with a 3.5 inch lift, some 35's, swaybar disconnects, headers etc. I use the truck mostly as my "Just In Case" truck. I tow with it, I take it to Hollister for trails, I go camping with it, and I generally have a good time with it. It is not my daily driver, but it could be, as it is dead reliable. I have serviced everything in it many times over, and it runs perfectly.

Now, I have built trucks in the past (S-10 with SFA and ARB's and 4.88 running 38.5's) and I know all about crawl ratio. I'd like to eventually have the flexibility to Run different size tires on the same truck for different reasons.

I like the 35's and snow chains for yosemite in the winter, but I'd like some 38-ish (37-38.5's) tires, on different rims) for the camping and trail riding aspects of things. I'd also like to work my way up to Fordyce, and know I'll need twin lockers for that.... and a winch... and spare alternators, etc... :)

So, with all that crazy background, here's my plan:

1.) I will install ARB's in the front and Rear of the truck, but keep the 4.10's. I could swap to 4.56's or 4.88's, but As a better way to get around re-gearing, I was thinking of swapping (or adding to) the transfer case.

I have been looking at the Stak case, and the three speed looks like it might be just about perfect. Has anyone installed one in a suburban? Was it a mess, or easy? I like the three stick idea, and would rather not have two xfer cases under there if possible.

I also like the Atlas, but the two speed isn't as desireable to me, because I wouldn't have that middle range for spinning.

Sorry for the long post, and thanks for the reply.

-Dan
 
IMO with your long wheelbase I would go doubler mostly for the fact it will lengthen your front driveshaft and make it operate better as kinda a bonus to the extra length but you won't have the problems like I am having with a shorter rear shaft than front on my 108WB rig.
 
MNorby said:
mostly for the fact it will lengthen your front driveshaft and make it operate better as kinda a bonus to the extra length


Hmmmm... I hadn't thought about it that way. That actually makes pretty good sense. Maybe I will explore that further. I assume most folks on this board go with the stuff available from ORD?
 
dbreid said:
Hmmmm... I hadn't thought about it that way. That actually makes pretty good sense. Maybe I will explore that further. I assume most folks on this board go with the stuff available from ORD?

Not necessarily, some do for the no brainer, some like to be different and go a different route.
Some also come up with new ideas, like ORD did and end up like ORD selling their ideas.
:D
Where in CA are you?
 
I used Wagner Machines doubler but they are gone now but the creator is still making the doubler at sumner machine (sumnermachine.com I think) also northwest fab, jeds machine, etc. Also northwest fab has their black box and the klune V units which are kinda a different take off the doubler idea.
 
I like the idea of a Klune V as well. I have seen those in use, and that might be the right mix for me. My rig is already Crazy Heavy (A Suburban in Full battle dress is no featherweight... and mine still has most of the parts necessary to allow my GF to drive it if she likes) and the thought of adding a whole new transfer case doesn't appeal so much.

Thanks for all the good ideas here, though!
 
Marv Springer installed a Stak in his brothers Jeep TJ that he extended, axles swapped, linked, & lifted. The stak was REALLY nice. I am not 100% sure but the Stak looked pretty much bolt in. It even had the correct speedo sensor for the gauges so he just had to plug the stock connector in when he installed it.

The case itself looked really nice. The machine work was very good & the fit and finish was very good. I would much rather go that route for a 3 speed case then doing a doubler from anyone. With a doubler you will have to source 2 t-case that might need rebuilt, you need to dissassemble the 203, possibly have the 205 machined for a larger bearing on the input, do driveshaft & floorboard mods, etc.

The Stak should be almost plug & play depending on how much you want to clock it up. The only things you will probably have to do with the Stak is driveshaft mods, possible floorboard mods, & new holes for the shifters in the floor.

Harley
 
A stak would be nice, for the simplicity, but I would go with the Klune Goliath. It is another 2.72 reduction, gives you another 6-7" of front driveline to take out the wonderfully steep angle GM designed into these trucks, and you can clock your t-case up flat as well. Since I an keepin my 241, I plan on running a Klune in the future.
 
The STaK is a nice lookin' piece....!

STaKCase.jpg


Works well too..

Marv
 
txcol_sanders said:
How much do those run?

alot;) unless you are really concerned with weight, id just look into a doubler, thats what im doing :D
 
Yeah, right after posting I Googled it. I think it was 2,650 or something. No thanks.
 

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