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Hate parts monkeys... so much

MrSchaeferPants

MrSchaeferPants

1/2 ton status
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Location
Hot Springs, AR
Went to a local Chebby dealer today to order my motor. All was good, said it'll be in tomorrow at noon. So I get home, decide to run the parts number on the invoice for the hell of it. They ordered me the base 195hp motor. :doah: Good thing I didn't pay for it right then and there. Thought the new GM Goodwrench base 350 was the 290hp and replaced the old 195hp one, they're practically the same price. So I guess now it'll be another day cause I'm marching down there tomorrow at 7:30 when they open. Got a part number this time :waytogo:

Which brings me to anothe question, what oil to break it in with?

Horsepower: 290 @ 5100 RPM
Torque: 326 ft/lbs @ 3750 RPM
Max Rec. RPM: 5100 RPM
Compression Ratio: 8.5:1
Heads: Cast Iron 76 cc Chamber - 1.94 Intake valve/1.5 Exhaust valve
Camshaft Lift: .450 Intake /.460 Exhaust
Flat Tappet Duration @ .050" (222°Int/222° Exh)
Lifters: Flat Tappet
Connecting Rods: Powdered Metal
Block: 4-bolt main
Pistons & Pins: Aluminum
Crankshaft: Cast Iron Nodular, 3.480" Stroke
Rocker Arm: 1.5
Ignition Timing: 34° BTDC total advance
Fuel: 87 octane
 
theres a hundred and one answers to that question. but John Deere makes a really nice high zinc 10w30 breakin oil. its CJ oil, but it's aces for engine breakins.
 
flat tappet cam now adays = zinc needed in the oil. its basicly all been removed now. this will kill a cam .

goin in your 85 ?

and what bolt pattern heads on the new motor. there is 86-down and 87-95.
 
I knew I needed a high zinc oil. Those 'cam' additives for break-ins provide that?

No idea what style for the bolts. Never thought about that. Guess I need to ask that tomorrow. Looked it up some more, normal GM Goodwrench is where I found the dealer to goto for the motor, I've also been looking at gm performance parts where I've been looking at the 290/350 online, and their local authorized dealer is another place, so I'm gunna give both places a call tomorrow I suppose.
 
You may want to do some research on that 290 hp motor, I believe I remember reading that it had a cam that isn't TBI friendly and that also wasn't great on the low end.

I know you put the specs in your post, but I remember reading that more than once (or that the 290 hp motor was to be avoided for one reason or another).

I have more lift and similar duration @ .050" but I never ran TBI, from what I've seen I have too much cam for TBI.
 
For break-in oil use Valvoline VR1 racing oil, it still has more than enough zinc in it for flat tappet cams.
 
38377k5 said:
You may want to do some research on that 290 hp motor, I believe I remember reading that it had a cam that isn't TBI friendly and that also wasn't great on the low end.

I know you put the specs in your post, but I remember reading that more than once (or that the 290 hp motor was to be avoided for one reason or another).

I have more lift and similar duration @ .050" but I never ran TBI, from what I've seen I have too much cam for TBI.
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I'm running carb. And for the intake bolt question, it says the motor is for 1979-earlier, or off-road use, so I'm assuming it has the regular slanted intake pattern. But I'll still ask.


EDIT: Found this on Jegs: "The heads have the conventional 12-bolt intake manifold attaching design used from 1955 through late 1980."
 
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TheBeast_88K5 said:
Congrats on the new-motor shopping! :waytogo:
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Ya, I'm all :woot:

Went to Orileys last night and got a new water pump, power steering pump, single groove pulley, high pressure line, return line, motor mounts, coolant. Today I'm going back for a fuel pump, new fuel hose/filter, water neck and gasket, lower radiator hose (upper's new), I already have intake gasket kit, exhaust gaskets, thick carb gasket, trying to think what else do I need or want.

Anything else for a new motor? Another possible issue, is if the motor comes with the oil filter adapter. The one in the Jimmy has an external oil cooler, but the lines are leaking, cooler is a little banged up, so I was just going to pull it off for now, but maybe I'll try to figure out what exactly is leaking, and keep it on there.
 
I hope you price shopped, the last time I looked at gmperformance crate motors the local chevy parts warehouse was a $1k more than jegs, summit, and scoggin-dickies... Shipping on a crate motor usually runs about $350, you may still come out ahead for the same exact motor.
 
smier said:
I hope you price shopped, the last time I looked at gmperformance crate motors the local chevy parts warehouse was a $1k more than jegs, summit, and scoggin-dickies... Shipping on a crate motor usually runs about $350, you may still come out ahead for the same exact motor.
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Their price is close to everyone else, including online sources. Jegs and the like are around $2k. This one was $2400. My main problem is time. Today's the 4th, my engine will be here at noon. It needs to be up and running asap, cause my new job starts the 9th. Can't wait for shipping.

Gotta get the motor in, muffler shop to get the tailpipe installed, auto glass place for the windshield, then drop the tank and fix the L/R shock mount, and get my 'new' tires put on. And those are just needs for right now, all before Wednesday. What I would also LIKE to do is change out the fluid and filter in the tranny (and it needs a gasket), perhaps take it somewhere so it can get flushed, since I'll be putting a stronger motor infront of the 700r4. It shifts nice and firm, and I'd like to keep it that way.
 
DEMON44 said:
theres a hundred and one answers to that question. but John Deere makes a really nice high zinc 10w30 breakin oil. its CJ oil, but it's aces for engine breakins.
Click to expand...

I agree that John Deere makes sells fine oil, but I didn't realize they were using API numbers now? They still don't on their 15W40 do they?

Martin
 
When We, Tom(Bradshawtech) and I installed my TBI350, It went from engine stand to in and running in 1 hr flat. Tom is the man. Good luck on the motor!
 
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