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HB problem found. Not HB problem rear drum problem.

tRustyK5 said:
I'd guess bad booster before I'd guess MC...

Rene
Click to expand...

Damn well I am gonna replace the MC if I replace the booster or is there no diff between 1 ton MC and 3/4 ton MC. The one I have is from a 3/4 ton 2wd Suburban will I benefit from one from a 1 ton? If not I will stick with just the booster. I guess I ought to check the booster for leak down and the like. Any tips on other things to check before I dump $200 on a HB unit?

Ira
 
Why not try another used HB?

It would seem to me that if your steering works OK that the pump is fine. Maybe the high pressure line to the HB is bad internally? I think that shudder is booster related, whether it's not getting enough flow or maybe it's just about dead...you have pretty much eliminated every other component.

I do know that i get a wierd shudder through the pedal as I'm starting my truck with one foot on the brake, so i suspect that when the booster isn't doing it's thing that's what you get.

Rene
 
I do not know if I want to trust another one from the junkyard. I think it has plenty of flow as I have notched the fitting to get the increased flow as well as bored the orifice. I did not adjust the pressure at all on this pump. I guess I could put a want add in the classifieds on here who knows I could get lucky:D . Also both HP hoses are brand new so I do not suspect them as being collapsed.

Thanks for the help

Ira
 
Ok guys tell me if I am a moron or not. I gravity bled the front until I got no air. I take it for a test drive and I still have a low pedal and if I am just rollin up to a stop sign I can feel the rear grab and make a clunking noise. I take the truck up to about 30-35 and press hard on the brakes so as to stop fast but not lockup a tire. I get a slight vibration but nothing anywhere near what I had before. I also have the drivers rear lock up. So I do this a few more times and she stops great but still have the drivers rear want to lock up. I also get the brake light on so I check the resevoir and it is fine a little low but not enough to put air in the system. I get home and feel all of the hubs rotors and drums. I had done some heavy braking so I did not expect to be able to hold my hand on them for long if at all. The rotors were both hot and the drivers rear was hot however the passanger rear was as cold as it was when I left. Have I been chasing a ghost problem? Could having the drums not adjusted properly cause the vibration I have been feeling and also the brake light to come on?


This is the one time I hope I am a moron and that adjusting and re-bleeding things could fix my problems.

Sorry for the long post but help me out guys. Oh yeah all of the hubs where nice and cool which leads me to believe that nothing is dragging plus I have no pulling while driving or breaking.

Thanks

Ira
 
Get a Mico-lock and ditch those boat anchors...even when i had an E-brake I never used it. :crazy:

Rene
 
If your rear shoes are not properly adjusted out then you will have a few indications.
1. Low pedal, late reaction, and sometimes the need tp pump up the brakes in order for them to work
2. Brake light....if they are that far out.

I doubt that the vibration could be due to the rear brakes, but I could be wrong.
 
All right I will try to get them adjusted in and see what that does. I still think I might have a bad booster as I can go into a store and when I come out I push on the brakes to start the truck and the pedal goes to the floor. It acts like the accumulator is not doing its job. I will get the brakes adjusted and see what that does. Oh and sorry to Roz as I thought I had them adjusted when he mentioned that as a problem.:doah: .

Ira
 
Well I got the rear brakes adjusted and now I have gone too far. The passenger side is OK but the drivers side was smoking and I could see the heat shimmer coming off the drum.:doah: . The pedal feels good and I have no brake light anymore. I can only engage my ebrake maybe 3-4 clicks, will backing the drivers shoes off loosen that up or is it all on the nut where the 2 cables come together, or is it not a problem. Oh I still have the vibration when I brake so not sure where that is. I do know I have a leak on the pump but cannot tell from where I just have a puddle under the truck and I can see a drip on the bottom bolt. It appears that the pump is pulling out of the can could it be that there is no lockring on the pump?


As I took it down the highway to get up to speed I got up to 75 and it ran as smooth as you would expect chuncked 37s to be with airsoft pellets:D . But I had this noise from the booster/steering area that sounded like air and the steering was not very responsive, the pump was not groaning just if felt weird and the booster was making noise.

Just an update to see if anyone else might know anything. I am gonna back off the drivers side and put my e-brake about in the middle of travel and see if that does the trick. Is it worth buying the pump rebuild kit and doing it yourself or buying a new pump and rez.

Ira
 
The more I think about it the more I think it is the parking brake dragging on that side. The way I adjusted the brakes was to have the wheel off of the ground and spin the wheel, adjust the shoes and spin again. I got them stop the wheel and then I backed them off and spun again they did not drag at all. I then adjusted the Ebrake cable and only got about 2 clicks maybe 3 on the pedal. I am thinking the cable adjustment is too tight causing the brakes to hang up the drivers side is the one that gets pulled tight by the nut on the other brake cable. Shoulda just sucked it up and went disc.:mad:

Ira
 
Hey a sort of update. I do not have any shocks on right now and read in another post the no shocks can make the wheels hop. I am wondering if with the soft rear springs and no shocks at all if when I brake it could be causing the vibrations that I feel. I know I need to replace the booster as it fails the leakdown test and there appears to be fluid leaking from the weephole on the bottom between the booster and MC. It is just a thought for anyone who might see this in the future.

Ira
 
PS lines and bracket trimming

i am going to put a hydro boost on my 67 p/u this weekend and i was wondering what high-pressure steering lines i need (what year of truck). and recomended low-pressure lines (is there a minumum psi?). and i am going to get a "T" also, because my ps pums does not have two low-pressure inlets. will i need a cooler? its a DD and i dont tow anything becuase i dont even have a hitch. ohh i also need to trim the lower part of the bracket of the hydroboost to clear steering column mount, this wont be a problem will it? thanks for any input.

PS. the hydroboost is from a m1008 military p/u and my ps pump looks exactly like the one on my friends 72k5. i just thought id thow that out there....
 
Do a search, and you'll probably find all you need. For what you've said, you probably don't need a cooler. I've run mine for a year without one, and no boiling, but it does get hot. Get the lines for whatever stock application is closest to your setup. There are both o-ring and flare style lines available in the stock application.
 
Found the problem or atleast the area. It is something to do with my rear drums but after the run to Superstition they do not vibrate anymore. Maybe the sand got in there and "turned" my drums for me:o . I think it is time for a disk swap.:D

Ira
 
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