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Head Education.....

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ftn96

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I've got a set of heads that my uncle gave me. Said they were used on a 350 motor setup that was running about 400 ponies. I dont' know dingle berrys about heads, other than how they work. But how do I know what kind, size, valves and all that jazz. I seem to remember him saying that they are 194/202 heads. I am assumng this has something to do with the valve sizes. Can someone shed some light over here?????

Don't you buy no ugly truck!
 
194/202 One or the other can't be both. This is intake valve size. If you look around the heads you should see a casting number. This number should be the same on each head. Find these numbers and I will tell you the stock information about these. What do you plan on putting these on?
Luke
 
Yes 194/202 are valve sizes. 202 is he intake valve and 194 is the exhaust valve.

Some stock vehicle came with 160 Exh and 194 Int valves, but were mostly older vehicles I believe. The extra size difference doesn't really kick in until after about 5K rpm or so. PLus the prting may take away alittle low end torque, but with the right cam/intake combo with those heads you can make some good power!

Mike
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See <font color=green>EMMETT</font color=green> -&gt; http://emmett.coloradok5.com
 
I've got a 350 (on the floor in the corner ready for the machine shop) thats 30 over now, taking it to 40 over, 383 crank setup, with an RV cam, and using my existing TBI and all the extras that on the current motor. An I'm putting the 1.6 and 1.5 rocker combination setup for more torque. So I know need to know all the info I can get on these heads, or another set if need be.

Don't you buy no ugly truck!
 
I know that lots of people talk about hotter cams costing you bottom end torque, but I've never been impressed with RV cams. They aren't too much different than a stock cam.

That 383 is gonna make mucho torque. Giving up 15 lb/ft below 2000 RPM isn't going to hurt much. Having more power available in the upper RPM helps a bunch on the road and is way more fun to drive.
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The cam in my 383 comes in very strong from about 2500 RPM and up, so passing is no problem. Pulling long grades in the Rockies is also no problem. It still has more than enough torque right off of idle to go anywhere I point it.

I had a stock '87 vette engine in my '75 that ran way stronger than the stock 4-bbl 350 did. But when I put all the 'vette parts on top of that 383 I was astounded at the difference. It will nail you to the seat now.
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<font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
http://ThunderTruck.ColoradoK5.com
 
There were never any 1.94" small block exhaust valves. 1.94" refers to the most common of 350 head's intake valve size, with accompanying 1.5" exhaust. The 1.94/1.5" heads are by far the best heads to use when under 5,000 RPMs is anticipated. For over 5K, then the 2.02s really wake up a small block, but then again, how often are you running a 6,000 pound rig above 5K?? For torque, get the 1.94s and leave the 2.02s to the Vette and Camaro crowd.

ken
 
Ok, Ken you sound like you know what the hell your tlaking about. Shed me some light. What the hell is my uncle talking about? Was Emmett just backwards on his #'s up above or what. Sounds like there is a contra-diction here.

Don't you buy no ugly truck!
http://"http://mccordhouse.freeservers.com"
 
Dude, post the casting numbers of the head, it should be 6 digits. I can tell you what they are and what they came off of with the ID#, I know off the top of my head that casting numbers that end, 461 and 462 are desirable castings.........js
 
The #'s are 3998998. Theres some other castings. CONV4, GM35, 08 72, 1 22/72, AND GM6. any ideas what the hell the rest of these numbers mean? And I couldn't find the casting number on the mortec. com site. It had the 3998997.

Don't you buy no ugly truck!
http://"mccordhouse.freeservers.com"
 
Look again and see if that last digit really is a 8 and not a 3 with some grime in it. If it is (a 3), then it looks like you´ve got a pair of plain jane 75 cc 350 heads. Dunno about the other numbers. If these heads are in good condition, meaning good valve stem seals and valve seats etc.etc., then they´re worth hangin on to. You wont get any big $$ by selling them, and having an extra pair of heads is always cool, should you decide to build something in the future
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Andreas

406cui of pure sh*t
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Well, they´re no HP head, like the fuelies/double humps. But, if they´re fresh then why not use them for your 383, until you get what you really want. Don´t spend any big $$ on having these heads resurfaced, ported, new stem seals and so on. There are quite a big collection of performance heads out there for reasonable prices, f.ex Vortecs, SR, AFR etc.etc.

Andreas

406cui of pure sh*t
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Thats what I need to know. They look like shat and they will need to be reworked for sure. SO now I need to know which heads to buy for my particular setup to keep me down below a 10:1 compression. I like to run the middle grade gas. Might need to get a freaking loan for that. LOL!
Oh yeah, I'll be r-installing the factor TBI.

Don't you buy no ugly truck!
http://"mccordhouse.freeservers.com"
 
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