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head gaskets

soupman

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Looks like I need to do head gaskets on one of my K5s. 1985. Its running good but losing lots of water AND a little stumble at idle. Going to check compression tonight. 150k + miles, no lift kit.

What's my best plan?
1 Pull the clip?
2 pull the motor
3 just do heads in car

And detailed instructions in here on pulling the clip?
 
Don't bother to pull the clip. I did a head swap and it was easy, there's plenty of room to work. Pulling the clip doesn't gain you anything in access since there's so much room under the hood anyway. Yours will be easier than mine since you don't have a lift.

Some tips:

-Buy new head bolts, they stretch and you don't want to do the job twice.
-You don't need fancy head gaskets, the Fel Pro blue ones work great and are cheap.
-Drain the coolant from the block to avoid a mess.
-Get the surface as clean as you can. If you're re-using the heads, it may be prudent to have them checked or surfaced at the shop to ensure good mounting. With 150K miles, if you want to do any head maintenance, like new seals, now is the time.
-The heads are somewhat heavy, be careful during removal and installation.
-Make sure to have other supplies, like intake manifold gaskets, etc.
 
thanks Paratrooper... qq.. remove the heads with exhaust manifolds attached or leave the manifolds?
Worried about breaking a bolt (or two).

it just passed emissions so I think seal wise I may be ok. we'll see when I get heads off.
 
thanks Paratrooper... qq.. remove the heads with exhaust manifolds attached or leave the manifolds?
Worried about breaking a bolt (or two).

it just passed emissions so I think seal wise I may be ok. we'll see when I get heads off.

I'd remove the manifolds. It may be possible with the manifolds attached, but I removed mine just because it would be cumbersome moving the heads around with them attached. I'd spray some penetrant or break free on them and reinstall with anti-seize if you're concerned about it.
 
I just did head gaskets. Removed heads sent them out to machine shop. New timing chain, seal ,waterpump, felpro products. I removed exhaust manifolds pior to unbolting heads. I took my time. I purchased/installed arp head bolts from Pepboys for $89 dollars. I rebuilt TBI and replaced vacuum lines. Prior to installing heads I cleaned piston tops, intake manifold. Replaced all other bolts during install. I did take out radiator for more clearance. I checkedout lifters and cam. Runs great
 
Pull the front clip imo if it is lifted. I didnt like all the crawling up and down eleventy billion times.
 
Either that or get or make a step stool thing that hooks on the front tire to stand on...your back will not kill you as bad if you use one of those..

I made one out of an old kitchen step stool high chair thing I had--took an old lawn mower push handle and chopped it up to make hooks to grab the tire,and bolted it to the step stool...

I got real tired of using milk crates or 5 gallon pails,and having them slide away from the truck when I'd lean over,and crush my nuts against the fenders or radiator support..
If taking the front clip off wasn't so involved and difficult to do by myself,I would do it any time the engine needed major work--or just pull it out,which is probably easier..when I junked my 77 GMC and kept the drive train I did pull off the nose,it was not easy,but it sure made pulling the engine and tranny out a cake walk..

images (78).jpg
 
I'm with Adam on this one. Even if you just pull the core support it'll make your life a lot easier. There's a lot to say about working while being able to stand up vs. being hunched over in the engine bay.
 
Wtf is everyone changing there names now??? :whistle:

Not everyone....and don't call me Wtf. :D

I know the hood opens up enough to give good clearance, but since there is no lift it wouldn't hurt to remove it. Is it really, really necessary? No. But sometimes, when I'm working on the motor, I wouldn't mind having it off so I could stand up and stretch. But mine is lifted 7" so the hood stays.
 

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