Header Help Needed!!!

[BlackBeardK5]

hey guys,

I have an ‘87 K5 blazer with a 350 out of a ‘95 Chevy pickup. A couple of weeks ago I ordered a pair of Hooker long tube headers but they didn’t fit. The drivers side had a 1/2” gap and was hitting the shackle for my front leaf springs. I literally did everything I could to make them fit (including some “custom” fab work) but once I get them to fit, the spark plug for Cylinder 1 didn’t have enough clearance to screw in. And now I need a new set of headers lol.

So my question, anyone run into a similar problem? And if so, which headers did you end up with?

 

[dyeager535]

Lots of reading, but at least one answer in this thread lol

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/hedman-elite-header-review.213472/

 

[mechted]

Have you tried shorter plugs?
Can you dent the tube to clearance the plug?

 

[bigblock72]

hey guys,

I have an ‘87 K5 blazer with a 350 out of a ‘95 Chevy pickup. A couple of weeks ago I ordered a pair of Hooker long tube headers but they didn’t fit. The drivers side had a 1/2” gap and was hitting the shackle for my front leaf springs. I literally did everything I could to make them fit (including some “custom” fab work) but once I get them to fit, the spark plug for Cylinder 1 didn’t have enough clearance to screw in. And now I need a new set of headers lol.

So my question, anyone run into a similar problem? And if so, which headers did you end up with?

I installed a set of these for a customer a week ago and they fit surprisingly well, still had about 3/4" around the shackle area. I had to dent the cyl 1 tube for spark plug wire clearance and grind a notch in the header flange to clear the temp sender but that was it. One of the reviews said they had to grind the motor mount bracket to clear a tube but I had no issues. The headers are well built and heavy, I had to hit the tube with a pair of big hammers to dent it enough to clear the plug wire. The gaskets are junk so just throw them right in the trash.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/STAINLESS-...ash=item489f8fc5d9:g:WtsAAOSwMEtaVEdy&vxp=mtr

 

[imiceman44]

I installed a set of these for a customer a week ago and they fit surprisingly well, still had about 3/4" around the shackle area. I had to dent the cyl 1 tube for spark plug wire clearance and grind a notch in the header flange to clear the temp sender but that was it. One of the reviews said they had to grind the motor mount bracket to clear a tube but I had no issues. The headers are well built and heavy, I had to hit the tube with a pair of big hammers to dent it enough to clear the plug wire. The gaskets are junk so just throw them right in the trash.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/STAINLESS-...ash=item489f8fc5d9:g:WtsAAOSwMEtaVEdy&vxp=mtr

And that is why I won't put headers.
If I have to dent the tube to make things fit it defeats the purpose of having better flowing tubes.

 

[dyeager535]

And that is why I won't put headers.
If I have to dent the tube to make things fit it defeats the purpose of having better flowing tubes.

Engine masters did some testing on the dyno with this. Amazing how bad they beat them and didn't make appreciable difference. It's not a little bit of beating either. The entire Engine Masters series of tests on the dyno of various engine components are pretty informative IMO.

Bash away!

BUT...there is enough room in these trucks, you shouldn't need to smash any of the tubes or have interference with the shackles IMO, if the headers are built for the truck. Although even with the fairly pricey Hedman's I ended up with, plug and manifold flange bolt access is challenging on a couple.

 

[imiceman44]

Engine masters did some testing on the dyno with this. Amazing how bad they beat them and didn't make appreciable difference. It's not a little bit of beating either. The entire Engine Masters series of tests on the dyno of various engine components are pretty informative IMO.

Bash away!

BUT...there is enough room in these trucks, you shouldn't need to smash any of the tubes or have interference with the shackles IMO, if the headers are built for the truck. Although even with the fairly pricey Hedman's I ended up with, plug and manifold flange bolt access is challenging on a couple.

I can take challenging but not impossible or needs smashing

 

[dyeager535]

I can take challenging but not impossible or needs smashing

Well the good thing is that their testing showed it doesn't matter. So it doesn't have to be precise. Clearance as you must, don't be gentle, don't worry about hurting flow. Simplifies things greatly lol.

But if you have coated headers, forget that I assume, and if they are high dollar, you shouldn't HAVE to beat them. Even on mine, if they'd just run the tubes out straight from the head flange even an 1/8" longer before the 90* bend, all plugs and bolts would be easy to access.

 

[imiceman44]

Well the good thing is that their testing showed it doesn't matter. So it doesn't have to be precise. Clearance as you must, don't be gentle, don't worry about hurting flow. Simplifies things greatly lol.

But if you have coated headers, forget that I assume, and if they are high dollar, you shouldn't HAVE to beat them. Even on mine, if they'd just run the tubes out straight from the head flange even an 1/8" longer before the 90* bend, all plugs and bolts would be easy to access.

My point exactly if it's doable why don't they

 

[dyeager535]

I don't know. I was thinking it probably simplifies assembly to use the same bends at the flange for all (or most all) SBC options, and only change what they must to clear different chassis further down the pipe. Maybe that 1/8" would put #8's tube too close to the AC box in a G-body, thus, make that bend as tight as possible and replicate for every SBC application. Same jig, same mandrel, etc.

It seems nearly every header manufacturer has different bends and fitment issues. I dislike the hassle they provide at times, but they are darn near the cheapest hp/$$ mod you can do. And ~25HP is a lot of power to throw away if the only problem is changing plugs once every 10 years (in my case lol) or clearance issues trying to remove motor mount bolts. I'm absolutely convinced any other problems (leaks mainly) are from improper exhaust hanging. The factory manifolds should be no better or worse than headers in terms of leaking, loosened bolts, etc., the difference has to be the bit of slop with the factory spring setup, and properly spaced and sturdy exhaust hangers. When people swap headers they often go dual exhaust, and that is it's own problem. Almost no one replicates the way GM hung exhaust on these trucks, whether single gas, or dual diesel.