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Header problems-BFH?

wforicv

1/2 ton status
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Feb 16, 2004
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Back in Augusta, GA again
Just installed my new Hedman Elite's. They sure are purty.. Anyway, they are contacting my rear shackle bolts. Will not help to cut bolts off shorter or turn them around. My drive side would actually hit the flange as the leaf moves and the passenger side is contacting the collector also. What should I do, just heat them and bend a little? I do not have a torch but I do have a little Benzomatic deal (and a lot of patience). These things have thick flanges, but I am a little nervous to stick a bar in there and start prying.

I hope I attached the pics right.

Eric

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Sorry, these pics are huge.............

Sorry for the freakin' huge arse pics...My first time posting pics. How do I make them smaller. :doah:

Eric
 
go to your camera software or photoshop and there should be a "format" choice. choose that and there should be a resize image choice, click that. it should have the current pic size in 1nches or pixels. i usually go with 480x640 with a resolution of 180 pixels per inch. when done save and that should work :D my headers on the bigblock hit the shackle bolts. i had to pull the headers and dimple the area with a ball peen, the jet hot didn't even crack! trying to pry on the headers doesn't do much it is really much quicker to pull em :deal:
 
take the shackles off, and put the bolt through the other way, put the bolt on before you put the spring into place and then just put the top bolt in. this is what i had to do with my elites. This will work on the passanger side. on the drivers side i cant think of anything at the moment, mine werent that close. That little torch willl have no way of being able to heat up that much metal though. A ratchet strap to the opposite framerail might work though.
 
The bolt swap around will work on the passenger side for sure. That one will just not be greasable (the zerk would hit then). I will have to find a way to get the drive side bent a little. Thanks guys.

Eric
 
I have the same problem with my Doug Thorley headers I just bought. Driver side is no problem. Passenger side is up against the shackle bolt. I cut off the excess bolt since I didn't want to swap it and lose my greasable ability. It still hits. I called Doug's Headers and they said to try and shift the engine in the mounts first. So, I am going to lift the engine slightly, loosen the engine mount bolts, and pull the engine towards the driver side using a come-along winch and strap. Then, I will re-tighten the engine mount bolts. If that doesn't work, Doug's says I can slightly bend the headers by applying pressure on the collector. I will use the come along again and see if I can bend it slightly away from the shackle bolt. I am hoping option number one works the first time though. I only need about a half an inch or so.
 
Make sure your motor mounts are in good shape too. I've seen some that were worn and allowed the engine to drop far enough for the header to hit. I doubt that's the problem in the photos above, but it's worth a shot.
 
i have yet to see pics of any long tube that fit well (low and shackle clearance). i have the same ones - i just beat the collectors with a small hammer and cut the bolt heads off the shackle. I have never been happy with the setup
 
Soon as my burb gets back from the shop, I'll post pics of mine, I have no clearance issues at all. When I put mine extended shackles on, I was like "what the hell is everyones issue with this, cause I have no problems" :dunno:
 
Muddytazz said:
Soon as my burb gets back from the shop, I'll post pics of mine, I have no clearance issues at all. When I put mine extended shackles on, I was like "what the hell is everyones issue with this, cause I have no problems" :dunno:


same here, i have a big block and there arent even close to the bolts.

but i do have extended shackles and relocated the hanger.
 
my probs came with using 2nd gen headers in a 1971 frame that never had a rat possibly but sounds like similar problems in later years. all prying the headers over in gonna do is make the flanges on the heads leak, dimple em where they hit :weld:
 
Easy way to fix, just remove your headers, turn the bolts around so the zerk's are on the outside of the vehicle then reinstall your headers.
 
Advice I've got for you is the same I've given before. I've got Hedman Elites, this is what I did.

Take a 2x4, stick it between the header as close to the collector flange as possible, and push. I got enough clearance on mine this way. If I need or want more later, I will try the thing with the engine running, headers nice and hot. That should allow them to move better. No way a small torch would keep that thin metal hot enough at all 4 tubes (where the bend should be, not lower) to increase the pliability of the metal. Not to mention probably harder on the coating. Nylon straps are too stretchy to get a good pull on the headers IMO. The 2x4 worked better.

Swapping the bolt around did not work.

If the truck is stock, and the headers are correct for your truck, call Hedman and complain. They need to know this is an issue. It would only take another half inch to fix this problem. They blamed my stock truck for being modified when I called, but if they get more complaints, perhaps they will actually listen. The call was free.
 

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