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Headers for a vortec motor in an older K30

j20m715

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Looking for headers for an L31 vortec (1996) motor in an 86 M1028 (K30).

Plans are egr delete, cat delete & probably delete all o2 sensors if possible.

Who has been there & done that ?
Do's or Don'ts ? What works what doesn't ?
I have read for hours about headers & fitment BUT can't find the answers I need.

Thanks in advance.
 
This thread will point out the headers that seem to universally fit best in these trucks.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=213472&highlight=hedman+header

Only issue is normally the AC mount to the drivers side front 2(?) exhaust manifold bolts, but that issue can be fixed with spacers.

Headers for the Vortecs are no different than other small blocks.

Just FYI, I'd seriously consider not deleting the cat(s), and EGR may be one of those "might as well leave it" if there is no pressing need to remove it. If you want it to run as it did in the vehicle that donated it, best to start out with it in the exact same configuration, running as it should, and start changing from there.

Headers I don't argue with doing up front as the cost to run the pipes two different ways would be exorbitant.
 
Don't know if you have that 350 yet or not, but if you don't you might want to consider stepping up to a later 5.3 or 6.0 LS based engine. A lot better engine than the old traditional 350, even the vortec version. It's more work because an LS is not a direct drop in like a 350, but if you planned on putting the computer and harness in with the 350 anyway, thats half the work on the LS swap too.
 
Don't know if you have that 350 yet or not, but if you don't you might want to consider stepping up to a later 5.3 or 6.0 LS based engine. A lot better engine than the old traditional 350, even the vortec version. It's more work because an LS is not a direct drop in like a 350, but if you planned on putting the computer and harness in with the 350 anyway, thats half the work on the LS swap too.

LS swap is a future project (already have complete donor) (different truck).

The vortec 350 is already in the truck. Just need to finish up some odds & ends.

Thanks for the advise.
Another thing is, my plans for this truck are to make it a dependable HD truck.
It is built very mildly, 350/4L80e/205, 6in lift, 37's, 60/14, 4.56's, cross over steering.
I know the L31 isn't a power house but it will be a great improvement over the stock 6.2 that came out of the truck.
 
This thread will point out the headers that seem to universally fit best in these trucks.

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=213472&highlight=hedman+header

Only issue is normally the AC mount to the drivers side front 2(?) exhaust manifold bolts, but that issue can be fixed with spacers.

Headers for the Vortecs are no different than other small blocks.

Just FYI, I'd seriously consider not deleting the cat(s), and EGR may be one of those "might as well leave it" if there is no pressing need to remove it. If you want it to run as it did in the vehicle that donated it, best to start out with it in the exact same configuration, running as it should, and start changing from there.

Headers I don't argue with doing up front as the cost to run the pipes two different ways would be exorbitant.

No a/c bracket issue on this (1996) year motor (newer style serp setup).
I didn't know if the header bolt spacing was the same or different on the newer heads.
I have no problems with keeping some of the emission stuff but this motor has the egr valve & tube that run across motor to the back of the driver side exhaust manifold.
This motor also has dual cats & 4 o2 sensors. I was just trying to keep it simple & clean (less clutter).

Thanks for the replies & advise.

Keep the info coming
 
Yeah Vortecs do suck for EGR. Couldn't remember how they ran it, makes sense. When I did my swap with Vortec heads I stupidly spent a fair bit of time and money running EGR with the headers. Now it's not even hooked up lol.

I'm not sure how you'd get around the rear O2's. I assume the "simulators" sold would work to solve that issue, or maybe that can be programmed out. Then you'd be ok without the converters. Having done this already, I'm not a fan of converter-less trucks. When running right NORMALLY the exhaust isn't terrible smelling, but sometimes it is and that is annoying. Running dual cats might be a bit of a hassle.
 
Yeah Vortecs do suck for EGR. Couldn't remember how they ran it, makes sense. When I did my swap with Vortec heads I stupidly spent a fair bit of time and money running EGR with the headers. Now it's not even hooked up lol.

I'm not sure how you'd get around the rear O2's. I assume the "simulators" sold would work to solve that issue, or maybe that can be programmed out. Then you'd be ok without the converters. Having done this already, I'm not a fan of converter-less trucks. When running right NORMALLY the exhaust isn't terrible smelling, but sometimes it is and that is annoying. Running dual cats might be a bit of a hassle.

I used a hooker dual exhaust system, and modified it slightly to accept dual cats. The key (mainly for the right side) is to get a cat that's compact. I found some universal cats at Summit that are spun metal and 4 inches wide , and they fit pretty well. You'd probably need to find O2 sensor extender harnesses to make 4 sensors work with headers though.
 
I used a hooker dual exhaust system, and modified it slightly to accept dual cats. The key (mainly for the right side) is to get a cat that's compact. I found some universal cats at Summit that are spun metal and 4 inches wide , and they fit pretty well. You'd probably need to find O2 sensor extender harnesses to make 4 sensors work with headers though.

paratrooper307
Thanks for your input.

I think for the moment I'm gonna take dyeager535's advise &
get it driveable (stock) first & then modify from there.
I have the complete exhaust system from the donor truck & a borla exhaust
catback from a vehicle we no longer have.
Figure I can use the stock manifolds, dual cats & all 4 o2 sensors from donor & the borla muffler for now.
Ive got it where it will start & run (no exhaust).
All guages still work (96 instrument panel) including speedo & tach
Fuel gauge even works with new tank & sender :waytogo:
I haven't decided which gauge cluster (1986 or the 1996) I'm gonna use yet.

Hope to get time tomorrow to get drive shafts built for it.

Still have a bunch of little things to finish up on it but with drive shafts built it should be movable.:woot::woot::woot:
 
Little update
I have deceided to stay with stock manifolds, duel cats & the 4 O2 sensors for now.
It will hopefully go to the muffler shop this coming week.
I haven't deceided on mufflers yet
(want it semi quiet but want it to talk when I get on it)
All suspension is done except for rear shocks
(Need to weld on lower shock mounts above axle)
6in frt, 7.5in rear (rear sits just a tad higher than frt)
Will update again soon :)
 
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