CK5
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Heaph's Build Thread - Built not Bought
- Thread starter chiefheaphy
- Start date
chiefheaphy
1/2 ton status
How much does a set of 2.5 tons's go for? Down the line Ill probably go Rockwell and swap the 60/70 into a 00 1/2ton silverado I have.
chiefheaphy
1/2 ton status
Id love some action picks of that rig
Max angle for a 1410 is about 30 degrees....not 60 degrees. 30 degrees is not a feasible operating angle either.
Rene
Rene
Rockwells can be had for much cheaper than 60/70's. You can rebuild them yourself but like D60's and the aftermarket, Rockwells can get expensive as there is quite a selection of custom made and aftermarket parts for them. All depends on how deep your wallet is.
One source for parts is Ouverson Engineering. Check their website by typing in that name.
One source for parts is Ouverson Engineering. Check their website by typing in that name.
jackedjimmy350
1/2 ton status
Wes, you like that maroon rig?
I like the stance of your avatar rig way better.
Geez, do ya'll even have any kind of hill in Bum Fock Kans-ass??? I felt like Chris Columbus about to fall off the edge of teh square Earth on the way to your place.
Bein from the Arkansas River Valley, I'm all for the big mud rigs, but is there such a thing as too big???
Anyways, good luck with your build. I'm subscribed. :
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I like the stance of your avatar rig way better.
Geez, do ya'll even have any kind of hill in Bum Fock Kans-ass??? I felt like Chris Columbus about to fall off the edge of teh square Earth on the way to your place.Bein from the Arkansas River Valley, I'm all for the big mud rigs, but is there such a thing as too big???
Anyways, good luck with your build. I'm subscribed. :
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Big91RustyBucket
1/2 ton status
Big
Justin, the maroon truck is "ok" for the stance to run 48" up to 66" tires. But if it were me, and I like trucks BIG here, I'd build that maroon SWB with the bottom of the door equal to the height of the tire.
As for hills in town/Kansas, there are plenty of them. Just gotta know where to go and look. I think the main reason you don't see them from the roads and highways is because most hills here don't go "up" but rather down as in a valley. Where you go down into one, you'd better have a good truck to be able to climb back out of it.
We also have lots of sand along the rivers which makes good dune running. That and river cruising, too. Just drive right in the water and keep the momentum going. Once you stop, you're screwed.
Then there is the mud. Lots and lots of it on plenty of land and grounds just about anywhere.
You'd be surprised at what we have around here if you were to drive around off the blacktops. Its not real boring but just have to know and look around.
As for hills in town/Kansas, there are plenty of them. Just gotta know where to go and look. I think the main reason you don't see them from the roads and highways is because most hills here don't go "up" but rather down as in a valley. Where you go down into one, you'd better have a good truck to be able to climb back out of it.
We also have lots of sand along the rivers which makes good dune running. That and river cruising, too. Just drive right in the water and keep the momentum going. Once you stop, you're screwed.
Then there is the mud. Lots and lots of it on plenty of land and grounds just about anywhere.
You'd be surprised at what we have around here if you were to drive around off the blacktops. Its not real boring but just have to know and look around.
chiefheaphy
1/2 ton status
Yo
so anyway...
I have no prior truck building experience. I am building "this thing" in my, 85 year old,recently twice broken hipped grandmas backyad. I am workin my ass off tryin to build a big truck the best I know how. I am not an idiot, I know I have a load of work to do and even then it may not "ride how I want it to" but I dont care!! We can let it be a Take it for what it is learn from experience kinda thing. Any input to help me make this build work is much appreciated!!!!!!
If anyone is interested...when this bitch runs...we can slam our trucks together,get stuck in some mud, be shady on some rocks or jump em' its all the same. If you work for it and make it yourself you should be able to break it yourself any way you please.
(Rusty when I heard 1410's at 60 degrees could it be that each joint could run thirty? Is 20 degs pinion feasable?)
Thank you gentlemen.
Heaph
so anyway...
I have no prior truck building experience. I am building "this thing" in my, 85 year old,recently twice broken hipped grandmas backyad. I am workin my ass off tryin to build a big truck the best I know how. I am not an idiot, I know I have a load of work to do and even then it may not "ride how I want it to" but I dont care!! We can let it be a Take it for what it is learn from experience kinda thing. Any input to help me make this build work is much appreciated!!!!!!
If anyone is interested...when this bitch runs...we can slam our trucks together,get stuck in some mud, be shady on some rocks or jump em' its all the same. If you work for it and make it yourself you should be able to break it yourself any way you please.
(Rusty when I heard 1410's at 60 degrees could it be that each joint could run thirty? Is 20 degs pinion feasable?)
Thank you gentlemen.
Heaph
Big91RustyBucket
1/2 ton status
That truck is gonna ride like shoit. Have fun with that. Enjoy that short wheelbase and tall height. I might reccomend a roll cage. Because that is going to have a super high center of gravity.
All I can say about that first pic with the frame in the air like that is....."WOW!" 
This definitely could be a truck that would benefit with Rockwells and some 66" terra tires later.
This definitely could be a truck that would benefit with Rockwells and some 66" terra tires later.
chiefheaphy
1/2 ton status
Ive thought about that center of gravity thing. Gonna compensate by using the 70HD dually and 60F with the dually hubs, 4 in backspacing and some 19 inch wide tires will put the track width pretty far up there. If it flips it flips. Oops! Its not gonna be the truck I take to get some cookies at 7-11 or out boozin.
chiefheaphy
1/2 ton status
Do I have that right? Is track width from outside tire to outside tire and wheelbase front to back or is it the other way around?
Track is the width of the tires on the same axle, wheelbase is the distance from the center of the front tire to the center of the rear tire.
As for U-joints (this may get a little long)
I also have a K5, nowhere near the lift you have but I do have a very long drivetrain which makes for a pretty short rear driveshaft. At static height with 1410's at both ends of the rear shaft I had angles of 27 degrees at the diff, and 29 at the T-case output. That sounds within the range of 1410's, but it is not. Both were very near to binding...and they both would have exploded with any suspension movement. I could have gone with the Tom Woods super joints which will max out at ~45 degrees, but these are meant for front applications only and off road only. They vibe because of their offset design.
I ended up cutting my perches off, rotating the pinion up ~20 degrees so I'm set for a CV rear shaft now. I have the CV head, but haven't installed that yet. My angle at the T-case end is now 17-18 degrees which still isn't great but it is livable. The CV I have will run at 32 degrees max, although it's not meant to run a max angle for long.
For your truck you would benefit from running Rocks because the pinion is quite a bit higher than a regular diff. This will help your angles a lot. You may also tip the drivetrain down an inch or so. This is a double edged sword though as the more the drivetrain is tipped down the worse your front driveshaft angles will get.
Rene
As for U-joints (this may get a little long)
I also have a K5, nowhere near the lift you have but I do have a very long drivetrain which makes for a pretty short rear driveshaft. At static height with 1410's at both ends of the rear shaft I had angles of 27 degrees at the diff, and 29 at the T-case output. That sounds within the range of 1410's, but it is not. Both were very near to binding...and they both would have exploded with any suspension movement. I could have gone with the Tom Woods super joints which will max out at ~45 degrees, but these are meant for front applications only and off road only. They vibe because of their offset design.
I ended up cutting my perches off, rotating the pinion up ~20 degrees so I'm set for a CV rear shaft now. I have the CV head, but haven't installed that yet. My angle at the T-case end is now 17-18 degrees which still isn't great but it is livable. The CV I have will run at 32 degrees max, although it's not meant to run a max angle for long.
For your truck you would benefit from running Rocks because the pinion is quite a bit higher than a regular diff. This will help your angles a lot. You may also tip the drivetrain down an inch or so. This is a double edged sword though as the more the drivetrain is tipped down the worse your front driveshaft angles will get.
Rene
chiefheaphy said:
BTW, even though I am cringing at how much lift you have chosen...I do like the quality and thoroughness of the build as it is so far. The work looks good.
Rene
jackedjimmy350
1/2 ton status
chiefheaphy said:
To each, his own. Good luck with everything.
TruckNutzDude
1/2 ton status
chiefheaphy said:
I got some wheels for you. They're 16.5x12 and have about the right backspacing for you. Selling them for $200 but you'd have to pick them up, at least I'm somewhat local...ish.
This is what they came off:
chiefheaphy said:
are you sure? i have never been able to find 5.38's for a dana 70.
my research show that it goes from 5.13 to 5.86, with no 5.38 option.
mrdrinksalil
1/2 ton status
chiefheaphy said:
X2! enough said
chiefheaphy
1/2 ton status
That would suck, thanks for the heads up. Good thing I havent installed them yet, Ill have to check it out.
