Heater core broke

[steedalx]

Per the post I just made I was working on my heater and the top metal sleave that the hose from the radiator connects too broke. So it looks like I will now have to replace the heater core. How do you remove it? I have searched around and could not fine anything. I assume it is removed from the inside. Thanks

 

[steedalx]

Well it looks like I just found the info. I have to remove the hood and drop the inner fender. Once I pull that plastic case out I should be able to replace the core. IS this correct?

 

[rjfguitar]

I have to change my heater core to but you don't need to remove the hood or inner fender, just the plastic piece.
I am wondering more about getting the A/C evaporater out of the way when the lines are solid aluminum and won't really let it move. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

 

[steedalx]

i have removed all the bolts that i can see. it feels like thre is another bolt underneath the plastic piece ( i have already removed one from the bottom). what else is holding it on?

 

[HarryH3]

Go back to the main CK5 page, www.coloradok5.com and look under the tech link. Grim-Reaper has a post in there with step-by-step directions on changing a heater core in a K5. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[steedalx]

[ QUOTE ]
Go back to the main CK5 page, www.coloradok5.com and look under the tech link. Grim-Reaper has a post in there with step-by-step directions on changing a heater core in a K5. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

[/ QUOTE ]


That says for a '75 and up. Since mine is a 71 will I still need to remove the fender. I just went out to try and the 1/2 inch bolts that hold the fender in are either striped or something. They turn but instead of working their way out they just pop. And conviently I can not get to the otehr side. What a pain.

 

[DaHateTank]

Yeah, ya prolly need to drop the inner fender to do it right. There's a bolt WAY down underneath the box, and on the outside, near the fender.

I had no tolerance, for messing with rusty inner fender bolts, so I ground off, or drilled out, the bolt, from the inside of the cab, and replaced it with a hex stud (like Moroso sells for valve covers), and a nut lock-tited (the RED kind /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif ) on it.

That way I could stick it through, from the outside, put a nut on it, and tighten it all from the inside, by puttin an allen wrench in the stud, and turning the nut with an open end wrench. A one-sided fastener, if you will...

I prolly wouldn't do that, on a nice truck, but my Blazer is pretty beat

/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

BTW: MY blazer is a '72 and should be similar to your '71. Seems you're getting alot of answers from people with 2nd gens...

-Marty

 

[CyberSniper]

You remove it from inside the cab. You need to remove the box and you have to get the lower nut which is under the evaporator box and really hard to get to. I used a deepwell socket, a 3/8" universal, and a 3/8" 10" long extension bar. It's easier if you have one person operating the ratchet and the other guiding the socket. You can also drill a hole in the inner wheelwell to do it.

The ductwork on the inside is the worst, especially since you have to remove the AC piece that goes along the bottom of the dash.