Heavy Duty Alt (MechMan)

[belezeebub]

I am in dire need of a heavy duty alt the stock one is not cutting the mustard after searching here and on google I think I am going to use a MechMan unit does anyone have first hand knowledge of this brand?

I am looking at the first option of the ones I was given

We have 3 alternators that will fit your vehicle. All of them are made in the USA, come with a 2 year warranty, and are extremely durable for daily use.

240 amp G series unit
400 rpm turn on speed
140 amps @ 500 rpm
Full output by 1800 rpm
Pure copper rectifier
6 press fit 65 amp diodes
$349

270 amp G series unit
400 rpm turn on speed
165 amps @ 500 rpm
Full output by 1800 rpm
Pure copper rectifier
6 press fit 65 amp diodes
$449

370 amp 6 phase Elite series
300 rpm turn on speed
200 amps @ 500 rpm
250 amps @ 800 rpm
370 amps @ 1800 rpm
Twin rectifier plates
12 press fit high amp diodes
$699



Test video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3HKivSo_TY


Internal component comparison video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMB2Rrpz9yg

 

[ktmoutfront]

I now know more about how they wrok. Don't know about MechMan, but I have had a custom built 200 amp for 8 years and it has been more than enough. And I do a lot of night wheeling.

 

[diesel4me]

You will want to either upgrade the thick red wire that goes to the altenator stud in the harness,or add a thicker wire right from the stud to the positive battery terminal..the original wire is only 10 gauge ,maybe 12 gauge,and being old and probably corroded some,it wont like having double or triple the amps the original altenator put out going thru it...its resistance will probably make it fry..

 

[scooter122983]

According to the wire amp chart you would want either 4 or 2 ga wire, I would go with 2 personally.

 

[paratrooper307]

You will want to either upgrade the thick red wire that goes to the altenator stud in the harness,or add a thicker wire right from the stud to the positive battery terminal..the original wire is only 10 gauge ,maybe 12 gauge,and being old and probably corroded some,it wont like having double or triple the amps the original altenator put out going thru it...its resistance will probably make it fry..

Yep. It probably won't fry it (Unless your wiring is in bad shape), but you'll not be able to take advantage of all that extra juice. Have you done the math on all the accessories you want to run? Unless you need that extra amperage, you're spending a lot of extra money over more conventional 140-200 amp units.

http://www.supercircuits.com/resources/tools/volts-watts-amps-converter

 

[Mastiff]

I got a Powermaster brand 140 amp for $145. If I had it to do over, I'd get more, but make sure you get what you need at idle - they will advertise max output which is at higher RPM. Mine's on the ragged edge, so it's really not charging the batteries when all my lights and electric fans are on when idling. Right off idle, the voltage pops back up.

I wonder if new cars have full voltage at idle with all the fans and lights on... It's a lot of load and doesn't happen that often (especially both fans full power).

 

[sweetk30]

I got a 210 amp cs-144 big case option for my 87-95 serp belt drive system as my little cs-130 stock 105 amp wasn't cutting it for my needs. this is in my plow truck .

got mine from these guys http://stores.ebay.com/Alterstart

and good reading here never purchased from them tho . http://alternatorparts.com/