Heckethorne shocks/lift identitication

[Element]

These things any good? My truck has a set on it, but I've never heard of them. Going to be doing some sort of shackle flip in the spring, and considering swapping to better shocks (Bilstiens or Ranchos) when I do that. They seem to be pretty bad at rebound control.

Also, my truck has what I was told is a 6" lift on it when I bought it. The blocks in the rear are only 4.5", and it's got stock rear springs. I know it's got replacement front leaf packs as it has 5 (or 6, can't remember which) leaves per pack and nice clean bushings, vs the rotted rear rubber ones. I know some lifts use less lift in the rear due to stock rake, and I know the truck would clear 39.5s turning, on a flat road. It's got Bushwhacker fender flares on it so I don't believe the fenders are cut (well, they are, but I don't think they've been cut for clearance, rather). Is there any way to identify what's on the truck right now? Trying to figure out if I'll be able to do just a shackle flip (maybe just that, depending on what's on the market when I do it), shackle flip + 1" zero rate, or what, to keep the lift at the height it is now, and to determine which shock I should get if I change them. Don't plan on running anything larger than 37s, which should fit fine.

 

[obijuan]

pics say alot, is your front spring flat or does it have arch to it? flat front springs are indicative of a 4 inch.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Heckethorn = Rough Country


Their Nitro 9000's are pretty good for the money. Nitrogen charged monotubes.

The hydros I have no clue about.

 

[ct85k10]

Heckethorne shocks are rough country brand of shocks most on here dont like rough country


edit: ajmblazer beat me to it

 

[AJMBLAZER]

There springs and such are pretty moderate quality.

The nitro shocks are sort of a well kept secret.

 

[Element]

Have to get a picture of the front springs, they're not flat, but then again they don't have a whole lot of arch to them.

Not sure what model these shocks are, just say Heckethorne, white shocks, and starting to look kinda old/rough.

 

[thebird00]

I'm not totally sure but I think alot of the lift kit standard shocks are the same shock. I think they just rebadge it or included their stickers to put on. Maybe someone can confirm this.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

That would be affirmative on the 10 position twin tube hydraulic shocks you see. Most of them come out of the same factory with the only difference being the part number stamped on them, the paint, and the brand name.
Why pay $45 for Rancho 5000's when you can get most of them at some parts stores for $25...or better shocks for not much more?

 

[Element]

That would be affirmative on the 10 position twin tube hydraulic shocks you see. Most of them come out of the same factory with the only difference being the part number stamped on them, the paint, and the brand name.
Why pay $45 for Rancho 5000's when you can get most of them at some parts stores for $25...or better shocks for not much more?

Can you expand on that one? Think I'll be going with new shocks in the spring, and if I can pay $250 for 4 instead of $500

 

[Element]

Bump to the top - front springs aren't flat, but don't have a whole lot of arch to them.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Most of the name brand regular lift shocks are the same shock. Rancho RS5000, SkyJacker/Superlift/Heckethorn/TrailMaster/Tuff Country/etc hydro...

Look up their stats and you see they're all the same specs. 10 position hydro twin tubes...gee...like a broken record. Only some cost you $32 and others cost you $45 (the Ranchos). They all suck but I'd rather get them by going to the parts store and buying "truck shocks". Monroe is part of the same company as Rancho, Tenneco. So the Monroe brand truck shock is the same as a Rancho 5000.
A jeeper who worked in the factory clued me into that a while ago.

Basically if you start comparing stats and notice that different maker's shocks are very similar...there's probably a reason.

Personally I prefer nitrogen charged shocks at the minimum and nitrogen monotubes are definitely the best route. Bilsteins are the best but the Rough Country/Heckethorn Nitro 9000's are a good deal. Just be sure to check the specs on them as most lift maker's shocks tend to run small from my experience. The stock spec nitro charged NAPA truck shocks that cost me $25 each locally are longer and shorter than all of the aftermarket 2" lift shocks I found for at least $8 more each. WTF?

 

[Element]

Do the manufacturers specify what fits what lift, etc? Never had to buy trucks for a lifted truck, just my Trans Am, so I know about valving affecting rebound and in the case of the car the shocks being properly valved for the compression value of the spring, but for something lifted...no clue.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

Yeah, if they list a catalog on their website or you call you can generally find out the applications for their shocks, the corresponding part numbers, and their specs.

I called Rough Country and discovered the shortness of their shocks. Did some comparison shopping over on www.SummitRacing.com and found the same thing with other brands. Annoying.

You can also go to your local parts store, ask if they have a shock application/spec book, have them look up the end types of your shock (how they mount, there's a code for each particular size/type) and then give them the extended and collapsed lengths you want and they/you can have a jolley old time digging through the specs looking for a longer shock that fits your needs.
Recently did this with my Tracker and found out that '98 F150 2wd shocks fit better and are cheaper than the aftermarket 3" lift shocks that came with the lift. Gee...guess what I bought to replace the originals?

 

[ronnny]

Ok I am by no means knowing much of nothin'

My last truck 73' k-10 I thought had 4" cause of the 3-3/4" blocks in the rear it set level the front springs had arch to them. Know I think it was a 6". Will compare when my current lift on my current truck is done. 79' k-10 I aquired what was told to be 6" spring (all 4) and a 8" kit. I installed the 6" almost (still on the steering and brakes) After searching the numbers on the springs I find they are pro comp. The site says the rear are 4" and the front 6". The said 8" have no numbers.

 

[Element]

Yeah, if they list a catalog on their website or you call you can generally find out the applications for their shocks, the corresponding part numbers, and their specs.

I called Rough Country and discovered the shortness of their shocks. Did some comparison shopping over on www.SummitRacing.com and found the same thing with other brands. Annoying.

You can also go to your local parts store, ask if they have a shock application/spec book, have them look up the end types of your shock (how they mount, there's a code for each particular size/type) and then give them the extended and collapsed lengths you want and they/you can have a jolley old time digging through the specs looking for a longer shock that fits your needs.
Recently did this with my Tracker and found out that '98 F150 2wd shocks fit better and are cheaper than the aftermarket 3" lift shocks that came with the lift. Gee...guess what I bought to replace the originals?

So a shock a company might list as the "perfect fit" for a 4" lift is typically too short for that much lift? Interesting.

For a 6" lift, how would I determine my optimal collasped and extended lengths? I don't do a whole lot of stuff that requires monster articulation, mainly just rough trails, hunting truck duty, and mud.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

I think they just figure out what the "normal travel range" is for a vehicle with x amount of lift and then go from there.

While I found the stock shocks were longer than the aftermarket ones that doesn't mean my 1 ton can even get near the compressed or extended dimensions of the stock shocks. The 2" lift shocks seemed to be about right for what the actual travel would be but hey, when the stockers at NAPA are cheaper (and being nitrogen charged, better)...why not?


Easiest way to figure the proper extended and compressed figures is a forklift, large jack, or convenient loading dock/ramp/incline, etc where you can compress and extend your suspension. Take the shocks off, drive/jack/lift up one side of the suspension, and the max extension you can get is about how long you want the shock to be on the extended side. At the same time the compressed side of the suspension should show you how short you want the shock on that side. Repeat for the opposite end.
95% of the time (I think 100% with these trucks) the front shocks will be the same and the rear shocks will be the same with no side to side differences.