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hel pwith 1 ton running gear install

FatHarryPotter

FatHarryPotter

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I just picked up a 81 1 ton chevy and i want to use the the running gear and put it in my 74 blazer. currenty it has the orginal axles with a 350 mated to a 350 to a 205. i want to do a high steer crossover kit from ord and eventually go hydro assist.. What i need to know are there any mayor issue that i need to be aware of when swaping the axles. I know that the brake line fittings are different from 1/2 ton. other than that is it a direct bolt in?

Robert
p.s 3.07 stock gear ratio sucks with 38 tsl
 
Fitting issues:

15in wheels will require major grinding on the calipers up front.

The spring perch width on a one ton is narrower than your blazer. You'll need to cut the old ones off and weld on new ones.

May need conversion u joints and possibly shorter front driveshaft


And thats really it honestly.
 
Only the rears are different between 1 tons and 1/2 tons, 3/4 tons, and K5's.

the front is a bolt in affair. U joint may be different
 
A D60 is a direct bolt in to the front of your rig (all years from 1969-1991 SFA are the same spring perch spacing). The U-joint on the D60 is also the same as a D44 and the 10 bolt IF the Yoke is factory. The banjo bolts for the D60 will be a 10mm thread whereas your stock D44 will be a 7/16" thread so you will need to replace your front brake lines with the ones from the donor truck or if you are lifted then you will need new longer lines from a later year that used the 10mm banjo bolt.

The rear axle is a little different story. The 1 ton axle has a 40.5" center to center on the perches and a 1/2 and 3/4 ton are 42.5" center to center so you will have to cut off the old perches and weld them in the proper place. The shock mounts are also different on a 1 ton, they are opposite of where they need to be for a 1/2 and 3/4 ton so those will also need to be removed and corrected. The rear axle will require a conversion U-joint.

Depending on if you have a lift or not will depend on whether you will need to do driveshaft mods or not.
 
you will also need a 2wd steering box and a pitman art for it. ord sell the pitman arm
 
jbz400 said:
you will also need a 2wd steering box and a pitman art for it. ord sell the pitman arm
Click to expand...


No...

You will only need that if you want to do cross over...

You can bolt a 60 up and run the stock arm... Still gonna be push/pull...

I don't have a steering box, I have an orbital valve...
 
If your running 38's, I assume your lifted already, but also make sure your rear pinion angle is right....a few factors to put in the equation are what type driveshaft joints you run (1310, 1350, 1410, double cardan, etc) and do some figuring on pinion angle.

Pirate has a great article on this.
 
okay well here is an update. got ord cross over ans psc hydro assist parts in mail. i got the axles out of the 1 ton truck and have them over at mt gf dads shop ready to start working on them. The locking hub on the dana 60 are shot and from so research i should probally rebuild the kingpins. I dont know the conditions as i have not had a chance to open them up. What else at a minium should be replaced? did checy switch to 35 spline outers in 81. was thinking upgrading axles since i have to get new hubs but that looks pricy. They same question applies to the 14bolt
 
All D60 fronts have 30 spline outers no matter the year. If you're gonna do 35 spline stubs, make sure you get the correct the hubs or flanges. The Warn part number for their 35 spline Premium hubs is 62672. You can get pretty much everything you need to rebuild your 60 at http://www.wfoconcepts.com
 
yea i just figured since i need to repace the hubs already why not just buy 35 outer with 35 spline hubs and do the upgrade now
 
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