The Pumpkinator
1/2 ton status
I just did a disc swap on my 14 bolt and my rear brakes drag, is there a valve or something that can be adjusted to release pressure to the rear calipers? 
CK5
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Help! Calling all those who did a 14 bolt disc swap
- Thread starter The Pumpkinator
- Start date
I just did a disc swap on my 14 bolt and my rear brakes drag, is there a valve or something that can be adjusted to release pressure to the rear calipers?
What calipers did you use?
LT.
1/2 ton status
I just did a disc swap on my 14 bolt and my rear brakes drag, is there a valve or something that can be adjusted to release pressure to the rear calipers?
There should be a proportioning valve next to the brake booster, at least there was one on my Dodge. If not, the perhaps you are going to need one. Check out Summit Racing for one.
LT.
There is no adjustable proportioning valve on these trucks.
You will probably need one, but that is a different issue.
Lack of proportioning room won't keep the calipers from retracting.
If you are using the caddy calipers with the brake, the brake caliper piston is kinda threaded, and has to be "reset" back into place with a special tool when installed to work properly.
If your truck was drum brake from the factory it will probably have a residual pressure valve/proportioning valve next to the brake master cylinder. You will need to remove that and replace it with an adjustable proportioning valve and use that to get the proper proportioning between front/rear brakes.
LT.
1/2 ton status
The Pumpkinator
1/2 ton status
Thanks for the quick replies, I used new k20 front calipers on the rear of my '91 k5, so it has that goofy RWAL system. However I jacked the rear end up started the truck and put the trans in neutral and the rear tires spin (and sort of coast) by hand, maybe its the thick pads breaking in?
I had no issues with my swap.
Buddy however, had the brakes draggin real hard. Not sure if the brackets werent bent right, but thats what he thinks was the issue. He just said eff it and drove it
Buddy however, had the brakes draggin real hard. Not sure if the brackets werent bent right, but thats what he thinks was the issue. He just said eff it and drove it
this is correct. factory disc/drum combination (proportioning) valves have a system that keeps ~2-10 psi in the rear brake line (so the brakes don't feel mushy). replace the combination valve with a disc/disc one and you should be good to go.
Interesting. Would this give the sense of having to pump the brakes after the trucks sits? My brakes have long travel on the pedal just once when I first back out, then they are good. I figured I still had some air.
You can fix that by adjusting your rear brakes as well.
chevysmithz71
1/2 ton status
This has been happening to us, 14b swappers, for years. Mostly it's the lack of brakes after the swap. I tried the disc/disc proportion valve from summit with no luck. So, I gutted the stock valve and that seems to work a little better. Next, would be to cut In a adjustable valve to find the sweet spot.
It really pisses me off because some do the swap and it works great. Then, there is those with my luck.
It really pisses me off because some do the swap and it works great. Then, there is those with my luck.
Kain
3/4 ton status
want to swap to rear disc,interesting read
Stuff like this is why I didn't swap to discs right away when I put the 1-tons on. Of course, my brakes are still weird compared to the originals, mostly long pedal travel. Can't win I guess.
Long pedal travel? Not much brake action happening?
Had that on my Beaumont, ended up going to a bigger master cylinder.
I did 1ton swap years ago .
I did 1ton master and hydroboost also .
removed stock prop valve and installed a tee for the front . then adjustable in the rear line and few test drives with the disk swap on rear I was dialed in nice and firm with good balance.
panick stops got me 2 cents back on a dime
adjustable http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3905/overview/
full dist block with safty switch/light and adjustable http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-11179/overview/
I did 1ton master and hydroboost also .
removed stock prop valve and installed a tee for the front . then adjustable in the rear line and few test drives with the disk swap on rear I was dialed in nice and firm with good balance.
panick stops got me 2 cents back on a dime
adjustable http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3905/overview/
full dist block with safty switch/light and adjustable http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-11179/overview/
I swapped from 10 bolt/14 bolt SF to D60 14 bolt FF with the 13" x 3.5" drums. my suburban is diesel, so Hydraboost. I also swapped in a 1-5/16" master and had to swap the output lines (front to back) on the master.
brakes work awesome. I have a complete disc conversion kit on the shelf, but am a little bit reluctant to mess with a good thing.
Yeah, I swapped to a 1-ton master. Maybe it helped some, I didn't mess around with the old one for long. It's not terrible, but compared to our modern vehicles, or the CUCV with hydrboost, it's kind of lame. Mostly pedal travel, I think the braking action is good once it starts.
I never swapped the front/rear lines to the master or anything like that. I'm pretty sure it's right though. The small reservoir goes to the drums and the big one to the front D60.
Why the ever-present push to go to disc brakes? Is there some pressing need to ditch the OEM drum brakes?
(particularly if you have a newer 14bff with removable drums)
(particularly if you have a newer 14bff with removable drums)
