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Help, clunking in 2wd

TrucktheJake86

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Im having an issue in 2wd, above 5 mph major clunking like 4wd is trying to engage and loud fast clicking like a card in your bike spoke. Jacked up front and rear end to make sure everything is moving normally which it is, rebuilt np208 and everything looked fine but put all new bearings anyway and still happening (oof) have adjusted linkage all different ways but theres no position i hold the shifter where it doesnt happen except in 4wd.. what the heck? Anybody have this experience?
 
Jack up the front axle and turn ea wheel by hand while watching the axle inside the hub. If it turns your auto hubs aren't unlocked, and could be the source of your noise.
While auto hubs are convenient they less dependable than manual.
You could try cleaning with fresh grease. A job most folks avoid, so chances are yours needs it.
 
Update.. auto hubs were definitely the problem, took both caps off and axles were spinning. Poke passenger side and it unlocked, driver side no luck so i took it apart, cleaned greased and replaced and now is unlocked.. but ordered some manual locking hubs to change out as im sure the problem will re occur, might as well do bearings while im at it... thanks @Wes Harden
 
Do they make any manual locking hubs that have the appearance the auto locking? I know its an odd question but im trying to restore the truck to make it look showroom but want the reliability of the manuals
 
Do they make any manual locking hubs that have the appearance the auto locking? I know its an odd question but im trying to restore the truck to make it look showroom but want the reliability of the manuals
None that I’m aware of but just FYI manual locking hubs were an option from GM - they were WARN hubs w/o the name brand sticker on the dials.
So an OEM look can be obtained just as a different option package that is in effect a better one at that - so put them WARNS on there,minus the decals, and roll down the road with a smile and a much more reliable set up.
 
None that I’m aware of but just FYI manual locking hubs were an option from GM - they were WARN hubs w/o the name brand sticker on the dials.
So an OEM look can be obtained just as a different option package that is in effect a better one at that - so put them WARNS on there,minus the decals, and roll down the road with a smile and a much more reliable set up.
You got my attention. What Part # / Brand for 85 K5? I’m confused if I have a Dana or GM (how man spline?)
 
I have warns on three trucks and I’ve never had an issue with them, I did break one on a wheeling trip but I carry a spare. IMO Yukons are only worth the money on a dedicated wheeling truck that sees hard use, plus warn was the factory option so if you’re going for the right look you’ll want classic warns.
 
As @Chickntrk said up above all the Squares internal hubs are 19 spline regardless of 10B/D44.

There are stronger hubs out there but if you are not intending to wheel this thing fairly hard with bigger rubber , then the ole cheap WARNs will work just fine and give good reliable service too - also they are very user friendly and don’t cause issues with turning the dial upon engagement and disengagement.
 
As @Chickntrk said up above all the Squares internal hubs are 19 spline regardless of 10B/D44.

There are stronger hubs out there but if you are not intending to wheel this thing fairly hard with bigger rubber , then the ole cheap WARNs will work just fine and give good reliable service too - also they are very user friendly and don’t cause issues with turning the dial upon engagement and disengagement.

Will I need these too?

IMG_6968.png
 
Those are for retaining your wheel hub/bearings to the spindle ( ultimately keeping your wheels/hubs from coming off ) and has nothing to do with the actual manual hub actuators - easily confused because of the common use of the word “hub” in the description for beginners.

BTW, not a bad item to get ( sometimes old ones will get scared up from years of people not using the correct sockets on them ) - nothing wrong with those, good stuff.
 
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Those are for retaining your wheel hub/bearings to the spindle ( ultimately keeping your wheels/hubs from coming off ) and has nothing to do with the actual manual hub actuators - easily confused because of the common use of the word “hub” in the description for beginners.

BTW, not a bad item to get ( sometimes old ones will get scared up from years of people not using the correct sockets on them ) - nothing wrong with those, good stuff.
But do the manual hubs use the same nut with a peg on it etc
 

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