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help. dana 44. I got the short shaft

strkrvgmad

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I have a '74 K5 Blazer with a Dana 44. I put an Ected locker in it, and on level ground, it seems to engage fine. Every time the front end articulates, though, the axle shaft slides out of the carrier splines. I checked the axles and they seem to be the correct length (long side = 36 1/8", short side is 18 1/2"). The wear marks on the short side (passenger side) splines show that it is engaged only 7/16". I also replaced the hubs with new Warn hubs and the splines on those look good. There is only 1/8" play in the shaft when I test it by hand.

Does anybody know how long the stock axle tubes are supposed to be? Does anybody have any ideas as to what the problem may be and how to fix this? Any help would be appreciated-- 4 wheelin really sucks when it's not 4-wheel
 
I don't have measurements handy, but do the plug welds look to be intact? Is there a clean or shiney ring around the axle tube where it enters the center section?
 
The plug welds look to be intact and there is no shiney ring around the axle tube (no movement there). The shaft itself only moves 1/8", which only leaves 5/16" of spline in the carrier. The ball joints are new. Could they have that much movement in them?

Thank you for giving a sincere reply. I will continue to look for the stock tube length. Maybe someone changed it before I got the truck.
 
Those are the right lengths, 7/16" is not nearly enough spline engagement. There is either something weird with your housing or your locker, ball joints won't cause this.
 
I tried to get the shaft to move more than the 1/8" by reenacting the situation and was unable to get it to shift more than the 1/8". The ball joints are all good.

I've located the popping noise that led me to believe that the shaft was popping out of the splines. I now believe the sound was coming from the locker when it lets go. It's an electric locker and I've tested the voltage at the locker (14amp). With it being a new part, I don't want to believe that's what is failing (maybe it's not). Maybe a drop in voltage periodically? I'll try putting a relay in and run power straight off the battery to it.

I still don't feel good with the shaft being seated in there only the 7/16" and will have to find out why that is. Thank you for your time and knowledge.
 
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are you sure its installed correctly?how can you be sure the splines are only in that far?it seems like not a ton of play in the shafts.but definitely not enough engagement in the splines if that all that is in the carrier.should be closer to an inch at least.are these new shafts as well?are you sure the backing plate and spindle are correctly seated to the knuckle to push the axle all the way into the housing to fully engage the splines on the locker?just a few things to think about.
 
on my last post i said i tested the volts and it was "(14 amps)" that should have said 12 volts. sorry for that. i have a troubleshooting guide for the locker. Next step is checking the ohms on the coil.
 
called the parts store where i got the locker and checked the number on the box to make sure it was the rite locker,so the number on the box is correct. now to open it up the diff again and check if there is numbers on the locker to match the box. I didn't replace the shafts with new, i used the old shafts. I used marking grease to check how far the shaft went in. then to double check slid the shaft in towards the carrier,so that the splines just start to engage,then move the shaft back just far enough so that the shaft can spin by hand. i then measured the distance from the knuckle to the back of the shaft. not sure what its called, but its the part that sits rite next to the knuckle. I did check my work against a build of materials list. i have checked it again with a friend to make sure. on the short side (passenger) i took the long shaft and checked to make sure it went all the way to the pinion shaft, i don't remember the the amount ( i think it was 1 3/16''). I'm sure there is something i am missing and will keep looking. i appreciate the help and am looking forward to being able to put the locker to use.
 
I would make sure you don't have 10 bolt shafts in the D44. I don't remember which has thew shorter axles (10 bolt or D44) but definately something to consider unless of course this axle has been used before you swapped the electric locker in and had no issues.
 
I would make sure you don't have 10 bolt shafts in the D44. I don't remember which has thew shorter axles (10 bolt or D44) but definately something to consider unless of course this axle has been used before you swapped the electric locker in and had no issues.

It depends on what side shaft you are talking about. The differential/pumpkin/center section is offset differently between the D44 and 10-bolt.

Short side shaft = Dana 44 is shorter than 10-bolt
Long side shaft = Dane 44 is longer than 10-bolt

I went through this back in the late-90's trying to buy replacement 30-spline 10-bolt front shafts. Everybody kept sending me Dana 44 shafts and I finally had to send pictures of the 10-bolt vs. D44 shafts to them so they didn't think I was crazy (including Stephen Watson of ORD).
 
I have a ford Dana 60 and Its been a while since I took mine apart, but there is a plastic (or soft metal) bushing and seal between the axle shaft and spindle that presses against the backside of the spindle which limits how far it can come out of the axle tube. Not sure if its the same on a D44 but perhaps it is worn or missing?
 

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