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HELP..... Disc upgrade problems

I'd be thinking of a front/rear disk MC before I was thinking about another disk/drum MC.

Corvettes, Camaro's, etc.

Drum brake systems are designed differently, always have been, a disk/disk master, if swappable, would be what I'd go after.
 
dyeager535 said:
I'd be thinking of a front/rear disk MC before I was thinking about another disk/drum MC.

Corvettes, Camaro's, etc.

Drum brake systems are designed differently, always have been, a disk/disk master, if swappable, would be what I'd go after.
Do you know of one that would bolt up?
 
Hey guys. Maybe there is some type of obstruction in the line? Have you guys power bled the system from the wheel cylinders in the back? I've still got that willwood proportioning valve if you want to rig that up to see if it might help. Based on what you guys are saying, it almost sounds like the brake system has a small leak in it somewhere. You probably would have noticed fluid though.... I dunno man.
 
cegusman said:
Have you pushed the pin in on the prop valve, seen that cause problems

*If* the brake warning light circuit is working correctly, the brake light should be lit if the valve needs re-centering.

The pin being talked about is on the end of the proportioning valve, it's to assist re-setting the proportioning valve in the event it doesn't reset when you bleed the brakes. They are supposed to, in VERY rare cases you have to mess with that pin.
 
The brake light did come on a couple of times when braking hard, I thought I left the wire loose. I will check it tonight.
 
My local O'reilys has cams MC for 89.00. I will pick this up on the way home from work today unless someone tells me not to.
 
Wow, you are still getting low pedal?:eek1: From everything you have done, there is only one culprit that I can think of. I wonder if there is still any possibility of air trapped in the lines somewhere. I hate to suggest that you spend more $$ on this swap, but you may want to consider getting some speed bleeders ($10 per axle), buying a gallon of brake fluid and bleed them till the cows come home. I have had to do this on a couple rigs to get rid of the soft pedal. I'll do some more research, but from what you are describing, it sdunds like you still have air in the system somewhere.:confused:
 
shane74 said:
Wow, you are still getting low pedal?:eek1: From everything you have done, there is only one culprit that I can think of. I wonder if there is still any possibility of air trapped in the lines somewhere. I hate to suggest that you spend more $$ on this swap, but you may want to consider getting some speed bleeders ($10 per axle), buying a gallon of brake fluid and bleed them till the cows come home. I have had to do this on a couple rigs to get rid of the soft pedal. I'll do some more research, but from what you are describing, it sdunds like you still have air in the system somewhere.:confused:
In the past, when there has been air in the lines, if I put some steady pressure on the pedal it would slowly go to the floor. Not this time. I have moved almost a gallon of fluid through this thing. What about the pin thing in a previous post?


A shop is going to have the same equipment that I have.
 
Power bleeding w/ a garden sprayer is the only thing that firmed up and raised my pedal. I'm running D60 Front, 1/2 ton calipers on my 14 bolt and a stock replacement 1/2 ton MC. My pedal is almost as high as before the swap and my truck stops well. But, I did have the same problems as you right after the swap. Power bleeding fixed it. I moved lots of fluid through the system w/o ever pumping the pedal.
 
Leper said:
What about the pin thing in a previous post?

That's very rare that you have to mess with it. I know you think it sound snuts, but it sure sounds like somehow air is either getting into, or is still in your system. I have pushed a gallon of brake fluid through systems to get the pedal firm before. Bleed the brake again and see what happens. Do it just like normal. Start at the right rear caliper and work your way forward.
 
This is just a stupid thought, but could the calipers be reversed. I know its possible to do this on the front and it will put the bleeder valve at the bottom of the caliper. If it is at the bottom you will never get them to bleed out (I know from first hand experience).
 

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