ChevyDan
Registered Member
How do I change a fuel filter on my 86 Chevy C10 350 4bbl ? What wrenches will I need.. 
Thank you in advance
Thank you in advance
CK5
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Help I broke down
- Thread starter ChevyDan
- Start date
buffblazer
1/2 ton status
dont hold me to this but if its factory and its carbed i dont belive there is any type of in line fuel filter.
you have the sock in the tank and maybe just maybe a screen inside the carb (my edlebrock does but its aftermarket)
what makes you think the fuel filter needs to be changed?
you have the sock in the tank and maybe just maybe a screen inside the carb (my edlebrock does but its aftermarket)
what makes you think the fuel filter needs to be changed?
ChevyDan
Registered Member
It's carbed. it's the quadrajet.. I think its just the fuel filter bc I can pour gas down the carb and it starts and runs. it was running fine until I went to hit the gas and it just died and won't restart
George_Pimpdaddy
1/2 ton status
either fuel filter or pump I thought there was a cheap little filter in the carb its self? also might wanna try to figure if your pump works
VERY unlikely its the filter, since they are designed to bypass when they get clogged.
You need to make sure your fuel pump is pushing fuel when you pour fuel in the carb or you might be wasting your time. Make sure to use a tubing wrench on the fittings, and be VERY careful, or you will kink the carb to fuel pump line, which are fairly hard to come by.
I find it best to loosen the line up at the fuel filter first, so it can move a tiny bit as you attempt to loosen the carb end.
You need to make sure your fuel pump is pushing fuel when you pour fuel in the carb or you might be wasting your time. Make sure to use a tubing wrench on the fittings, and be VERY careful, or you will kink the carb to fuel pump line, which are fairly hard to come by.
I find it best to loosen the line up at the fuel filter first, so it can move a tiny bit as you attempt to loosen the carb end.
Can Can
Pusher Man
You say it was running and then just died, but you were able to prime the carb and then it ran again. How long did it run for that time?
Chances are it's neither the pump, nor the filter. If you can get it running by priming the carb, and it STAYS running, you don't have fuel supply issue. If your filter is plugged, or your pump is shot, the truck would only run for a short time after priming the carb, espeically with a 454. It sounds to me like you like you may have a sticky needle and seat, but something isn't adding up. We need a little more info to make an accurate diagnosis, brother.
Chances are it's neither the pump, nor the filter. If you can get it running by priming the carb, and it STAYS running, you don't have fuel supply issue. If your filter is plugged, or your pump is shot, the truck would only run for a short time after priming the carb, espeically with a 454. It sounds to me like you like you may have a sticky needle and seat, but something isn't adding up. We need a little more info to make an accurate diagnosis, brother.
ChevyDan
Registered Member
Okay. its a 1986 Chevy C10 with a 1991 tbi 350, with a edelbrock intake, quadrajet 4barrell, manual choke. It's run fine, choke has worked perfectly until this morning.. I started it up, I let it warm up for 5 mins, drove to the store, approximately 10 mins up the road, I went inside left it running came outside put it in gear pulled forward 2 feet and it quit on me. I can get it to fire and run for a second or so if I prime the carb with gas, but once the gas I pour into the carb runs out, that's when it stops running. my question is how do I get the fuel filter out of the housing on the carb bc when I am holding the housing, and turning the fitting for the filter, it's torqing the line and it looks like I might break it. I dont want to have to change that line if at all possible.
You need to remove the fuel line first. If you've got some penetrant try letting it soak in that.
As I said, remove the line from the fuel pump side first before attempting the top one. That USUALLY allows the line to move (instead of twisting) just enough to allow the threads at the housing to break free. You need to put a wrench (15/16"?) on the filter housing and hold it steady while you remove the fuel line fitting nut. Use a tubing wrench. If you don't have one, buy one, or you will strip the wrench flats roughly 100% guaranteed. I don't know as anyone has yet to discover an easily found replacement for that fuel line, so do NOT destroy/kink it.
As I said, remove the line from the fuel pump side first before attempting the top one. That USUALLY allows the line to move (instead of twisting) just enough to allow the threads at the housing to break free. You need to put a wrench (15/16"?) on the filter housing and hold it steady while you remove the fuel line fitting nut. Use a tubing wrench. If you don't have one, buy one, or you will strip the wrench flats roughly 100% guaranteed. I don't know as anyone has yet to discover an easily found replacement for that fuel line, so do NOT destroy/kink it.
There is a small filter in a fitting in the front of the cab, and there should be another one down the line somewhere. If you have junk in your tank, it will clog the hell out of that small filter. Friend of mine had a truck with so much sludgy rust in the tank that it would clog about every 250mi. 
I recommend putting two of those clear filters inline-- one before the pump, and one between the pump and the carb. Makes checking supply issues a lot easier. Every carbed truck I had made good use of them.
I recommend putting two of those clear filters inline-- one before the pump, and one between the pump and the carb. Makes checking supply issues a lot easier. Every carbed truck I had made good use of them.
Only two filters in a stock carbed setup...the "sock" in the tank (which is actually a water separator) and the one in the carb body.
ChevyDan
Registered Member
I appreciate the replies guys.
I actually have one of those clear filters, once i get moving again I will probably go to that.. My tank does look pretty chitty, though so who knows if I am sucking sludge out of the tank, its possible.
I am going in like another 1/2 hour to go try this again. I'll keep y'all posted as to what happens.
I actually have one of those clear filters, once i get moving again I will probably go to that.. My tank does look pretty chitty, though so who knows if I am sucking sludge out of the tank, its possible.
I am going in like another 1/2 hour to go try this again. I'll keep y'all posted as to what happens.
If your tank is full of junk, it is entirely possible the "sock" filter is limiting. But not real likely compared to the pump.
You could easily determine by trying to siphon gas from somewhere after the tank. If it siphons, the in-tank filter is not clogged. The same would apply to any inline filter, as temporary high fuel demand is fed by the float bowl and flow rates don't need to be that high.
You could easily determine by trying to siphon gas from somewhere after the tank. If it siphons, the in-tank filter is not clogged. The same would apply to any inline filter, as temporary high fuel demand is fed by the float bowl and flow rates don't need to be that high.
ChevyDan
Registered Member
Thanks again for the reply
I got the line off the fuel filter, no gas at the filter... it's in a bad spot to work on so I am going ot have it towed to my house for further inspection.. I am going to shoot for replacing the fuel pump, ( I already have one here for it) is there anything I need to know about changing one of these ?
I got the line off the fuel filter, no gas at the filter... it's in a bad spot to work on so I am going ot have it towed to my house for further inspection.. I am going to shoot for replacing the fuel pump, ( I already have one here for it) is there anything I need to know about changing one of these ?
Getting the pushrod back into the block is a bit of a pain, I've done it with a screwdriver, but on the front side of the block in about that area will be a bolt. Get a longer bolt and you can "pinch" the pushrod with the bolt to keep it in place while you replace the pump.
Assuming the pump is the problem, it will take awhile for the fuel to get to the carb after the lines go dry when you replace it, so it's a good idea to fill the float bowl up with gas before trying to start, so you don't kill the battery cranking it.
Assuming the pump is the problem, it will take awhile for the fuel to get to the carb after the lines go dry when you replace it, so it's a good idea to fill the float bowl up with gas before trying to start, so you don't kill the battery cranking it.
86-1ton
1/2 ton status
yeah, sounded like a pump problem - i had that happen to me in my '83 Blazer - first i'd ever owned...
and defianatley X2 on a tubing wrench - best money i ever spent on tools...
and defianatley X2 on a tubing wrench - best money i ever spent on tools...
ChevyDan
Registered Member
I think I may need to drop my tank, I wailed the bottom of it with a rubber mallet a bunch of times to see if it would do anything to clear off the sock in the tank, and it started and drove home.. ran fine.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
personally, i think you have other issues, pounding on the bottom of the tank just doesn't make sense unless you have an electric fuel pump your trying to kick start.
If you think you're knocking off dirt and crud off the sock, i highly doubt it, that is a seriously fine meshed screen type sock, anything that gets caught in it, usually stays, and if you have THAT much rust and crap in your tank?? it would still get sucked up to the sock when you started pulling fuel from it again and most likely clog it up again in a short distance.
unless that tank has been completely empty with no cap installed for some time in the past, where it could accumulate a crap ton of rust build up and then you started using it or something....
If you think you're knocking off dirt and crud off the sock, i highly doubt it, that is a seriously fine meshed screen type sock, anything that gets caught in it, usually stays, and if you have THAT much rust and crap in your tank?? it would still get sucked up to the sock when you started pulling fuel from it again and most likely clog it up again in a short distance.
unless that tank has been completely empty with no cap installed for some time in the past, where it could accumulate a crap ton of rust build up and then you started using it or something....
ChevyDan
Registered Member
I definitely believe I have other issues.. I plan on dropping the tank, replacing it and my fuel pump. My tank is shot, its pretty rusty so it needs to go, as for the fuel pump I'd like to change that bc I have a new one sitting here and why not..
