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HELP! interior lights

W

wsudu

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Hi guys....
I'm new to this. Anyway, ever since I bought my 83', the dash lights and windows and everything else seems weak. It's almost as if the power into the cab is low. I notice there is a wire from the engine that goes to a plate with a stud mounted to the firewall on the drivers side. Does that need to be replaced? I could use any help. I also have to change out the heater core, so what is the best way to go about that? Last, I need a bumper, tailgate, and rocker panels. Where is the best place to get em? thanks
 
Hey! Welcome to the forum.....dash lites and power windows seem to be weak spots on Blazers. I don't think anything is wrong with your main wire. The dash lites get dirty and burn out. They can be replaced fairly easy with bulbs from Autozone etc. It's usually easier to pull the instrument panel and replace them.....you can reach 'em from behind if you're limber enuff. You might try a little lube on your windows...other than that replace the motors.
There are lots of parts suppliers: http://www.lmctruck.com http://www.chevyduty.com Lastly, try the parts for sale section and the "search" function. Most anything you could want to know is in here somewhere. Good luck!

Michael
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http://jmartin.net/parker/goose.htm
 
They now make halogen dash and interior lights....they even have colors....

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Eagle86K5
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Masonry...It's a Good Thing
2B1ASK1
 
My dashlight were covered in a film, no, a thick coat of dust. As for the heater core...... I just bypassed mine last year when it gave up the ghost bcos of a severely broken collarbone. I took the hoses off the core, cut one to size and stuck where the other came out of. Make sense? When I finally changed it out I just kind of closed my eyes and tore everything out! Good luck

creepin' and crawlin'

Jim
 
Welcome aboard!
Well for the electrical problems the place to check would be the ground strap off the back of the passenger side head to the fire wall. It is a flat copper weaved strap. It pretty well hidden by the engine and very easy to miss. If yours is damaged you can find a replacement in the Help section of parts stores like Pep Girls and Auto Zone. It is often inadvertantly left off if the engine is pulled. It is bolted to the head with a 3/8's x 1/2 long bolt to the head and to the fire wall with a star washer and a bolt. That is your likly point of problem. Even though there is a wire from the ground to the core suport there is usualy not a good connection from the fenders to the tub.
Another possiblility is an undersized alternator. I just dropped a used crate in my 79 and it had a higher amp alternator that really sped up my power windows and brightend the lights. Seems most parts stores like giving you a 45 amp alternator instead of a 80amp that the trucks with full power gear need.
The heater core is not horrible but it does take a good bit of work. First thing is pull the glove box door by taking the bolts loose at the hinge. This will gain you access to the controls on the top of the heater box. You will find a couple of vacum lines and a cable to the blend door. Pretty straight foward just keep track of what vac line goes where. Now while your in the area there is a single small bolt that holds the defroster duct to the main box between the opening for the glovebox and the back of the ashtray that needs to come out. On the driverside of the box under the dash will be another vac line that controls the distribution to the floor and dash that needs to come loose. you also need to remove the one screw that holds the difuser and take it off the bottom of the box above the tranny hump. On the extreme right side of the box between the box and the kick pannel is 1/2 inch head bolt that holds the box to the fire wall. The rest of the nuts that need to be removed are under the hood. All but one is easy to get to. I found that the easiest way to get to that one is to take the inner fender out. That is held in with about 15 1/2 inch head bolts. You also need to pull the factory jack out and undo the hose routing clamp on the fender. The rest of the job is to pull the box on the inside loose and you can pull it out and install the new core. Just becarefull of the A/C box under the hood. You don't want to knock it loose and break its seal to the firewall. Now there are some soft foam seals that often are falling apart. If you go to a home store you can often find rolls of foam weather strip with adheasive backing that you can use to make new seals with. Just make sure that where you need to stick this stuff down is very clean.

Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
Grim-Reaper
http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/
 
HEY REAPER THATS WHAT I MEANT TO SAY! CHILTON AND HAYNES HAVE GOT NOTHING ON YOU. YOU MAKE IT SOUND.......EASY. I MEAN THIS IN A GOOD WAY, IT TOOK ME THREE WEEKS LAST JANUARY TO DO MY HEATER CORE AND MY WHEEL WELL STILL ISNT ON! OH YEAH, THE HEATER DOESNT BLOW HOT EITHER.

creepin' and crawlin'

Jim
 
the cable to blend door is your problem. It sounds like it's not opening fully. Thats the cable behind the glovebox on the top of the heater box. It is adjustable by loosening the screw and sliding the cable. keep playing with it and sliding the heat control back and forth till you get full throw on the door.
You name it I have done it to one of my K5's. I built my 75 from rust back to a beast :).

Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
Grim-Reaper
http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/
 
found them at Meijers Store...Micheal..

and Grim, I used a long extension with a universal and a deepwell socket to undo the bottom one on the wall, not having to remove the inner. Took me about 3 hours to R&R the heater core.

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Eagle86K5
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Masonry...It's a Good Thing
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