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Help! Locking hub stuck!

DrkZide

DrkZide

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Joined
Oct 28, 2010
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Location
Littleton, CO
This part is stuck inside the hub.
DSC_1093-1.jpg


I've looked everywhere and I don't see anything holding it in. I've even torn it all the way down. Everything inside was pretty toast and when I pulled the cap off the larger ring/seal wasn't even there :eek1:


Any ideas?
 
Took me a second. I kept looking at the picture and thinking " its out, what does he mean its stuck?"

If I have this right, there are two things. The clip on the axle that holds on the inside part, and the ring inside the hub that holds on the outside part.

I think you know the one I mean. Its the thin flat split ring that goes in the slot inside the hub.
If thats the part you say is missing, then odds are its not. It may be damaged and covered with stuff, but if the big assembly you have in the picture will not slide out, either there is a piece of that ring still there, or the splines are rusty or galled up where it can't slide out.

Clean everything up really well, and run a small screwdriver around that slot in the hub to see if you can feel anything.
Also slide it in and out the splines to feel for burrs.
 
Last edited:
yeah, what he said. IF its like my warn premiums, its either the innter snap ring, or the bigger steel ring that sits in the ridge on the inside of the hub body. Ill take pictures tomorrow if you havent figured it out yet.
 
Do you guys mean this ring?
DSC_1085-1.jpg


I can't seem to find that ring anywhere. I'll have another look in the morning. These pics are from another thread on the FullsizeChevy forum. The guy made sort of a write up but that's where I'm stuck since the PO let the hubs that are on here destroy themselves.

Here's the thread for those interested (it's more of a build thread but some good info and pics)...

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/...lds-restorations/364709-project-1986-k10.html
 
DrkZide said:
Do you guys mean this ring?
DSC_1085-1.jpg


I can't seem to find that ring anywhere. I'll have another look in the morning. These pics are from another thread on the FullsizeChevy forum. The guy made sort of a write up but that's where I'm stuck since the PO let the hubs that are on here destroy themselves.

Here's the thread for those interested (it's more of a build thread but some good info and pics)...

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/...lds-restorations/364709-project-1986-k10.html
Click to expand...
Yeah, that is where it is.

That one looks like a thick round rod type ring. Some use that, and some use a flat multilayer ring.
Sorta like a couple of layers of a Slinky.
If you have that one, you have to find the end of it where it overlaps. It does not have a gap like the round one does.

Either one of those could be rusted partially away and still be holding the stuff in.

And I assume you have pulled off the small one on the axle.
 
Save your sanity...

Get a set of these......4 bucks on evil - bay.....:waytogo:

Best tools I have ever used for extracting those wire lockrings from hubs.

Use them when rebuilding slushboxes too...

Qr1It2xiQhimKn3hd-pIeKF_OvBDy30uertjg0sIMCY8fRfE86mp8WAq2y3yAfzXl61u24WBlukq8alNlfjdW3meaRfeONvsI5CG3xtyAIm85iQtqaLd5YLx5jWXpfkZRF_caf7Kd81CnWvTemM01WQTLSK1wwfoWxIaHOOiCQ
 
Well I think I found the lockring holding it in. It doesn't really look like a slinky (it might after I pull it out) or like that big round ring. I might have to go get a set of those dental pick looking like things to get it out. I couldn't remove it with my tiny flat head screwdriver and snap ring pliers.

 
Nope, I think thats one of the round ones like the other pictures. The slinky types don't have a gap.
You will need a little right angle pick like that picture.
A very small screwdriver like they use to tighten up glasses screws will also work.
It needs to be narrower than the groove. Just put it in the groove at the end of that ring, and push and work it under the end.

The ring will usually try to rotate around the groove when you do. Use another screwdriver or something to push against the other end to hold it in place.

Its hard to tell from the pic, but sometimes the hub parts will move out over the ring slightly and prevent it from lifting out of the groove. If so, you will have to push it back into the hub to get the ring started out.

Its usually a wasted effort to try to get under it from the side. The end is usually easier.
 
Second vote for the pick set. Harbor Freight has 'em cheap, your local chain auto parts place should have 'em too.

Absolute requirement for round snap rings, surprisingly handy for other stuff. Just don't use 'em to do your teeth after the hubs are in. Wheel bearing grease tastes bad, or so I hear :haha:

-- A
 
I was able to use my tiny flathead screwdriver coming from outside the hub towards the ring, get under neath it and pop it out pretty effortlessly.
 
So I was able to get them out. Those little picks made a world of difference. I have the new brake parts and new seals that go in the back of the hub but I'm not sure how to take them out without damaging that inner bearing.
 
At this point, if you have the hub off, the only thing holding the inner bearing in is the seal.

If you don't have the hub off, take the two nuts and the washer off, wiggle it so the front bearing falls out, and then just pull the whole hub off.

The seal is a maintence item. Unless its brand new, you don't reuse them. So, just stick a screwdriver in between the bearing and the seal from behind and prise up. You won't even touch the bearing.
Do that all around the seal, and it will pop out.
Or, you can usually reach through the bearing with a long screwdriver and tap the seal out.
At that point, you take the bearing out, clean it well, along with the race and inspect it for wear and pitting.

Doing the same for the front bearing also.

If the bearings are good, clean out all the old grease, repack the bearings and start putting everything back together.

Don't spin the bearings without grease, and don't dry or spin them with compressed air.
 
I made this :pimp:

Works great, and didnt have to buy anything. just bent it, and took a file to it to make it sharp.

DSCF9820.jpg
 
I got them out. I had a set of these from HF that seemed to work.
1654.gif



I used brake cleaner to removed some of the old grease from the bearings and races before I read your posts. They're air drying and I didn't really spin them a whole lot. Everything still looks to be in useable condition. I didn't see any excessive wear on the bearings or races. I think next time I do this I might replace the hubs since I did notice a little bit of wear on the back side of the teeth where the lockouts reside.

I'll be packing them today and hopefully get everything slapped together tonight. Then all that's left would be to find that fuel leak and replace the pass. side shocks before Saturday.

I thought I came out pretty well. $175 for a new set of calipers, rotors, lug nuts (I've been missing a few), seals, brake fluid, sandpaper (different project), sanding wheel, wiper arm and one more thing I can't remember.
 
Don't spin the bearings without grease, and don't dry or spin them with compressed air.
Click to expand...

Old wives tale ?? :dunno::dunno:

I blow bearings off with compressed air to remove the cleaning fluid I use to wash the bearing with all the time,, I just don't allow them to spin... I can't see where shop air would hurt a bearing just to dry it....

I was taught not to spin dry them also, but the reason was that they can fly apart. the cage will spread and allow the brgs to come out. I don't see any reason other than safety why it would be a bad thing....:dunno:
 
Well, shop manuals to date state no compressed air. I suspect two reasons.
First, I have seen people use the air to spin the bearings really fast. With no lube, you can gall or damage the finish.
And, remember these bearings are very highly finished.
Pits and rough spots will shorten the life of a bearing.

So, I figure the second reason for no compressed air is the sandblaster effect.
Pure clean air might be OK, but the manuals have no idea of the quality of the air, and I have seen some nasty stuff come out of air nozzles.

Just check out Chief Brady's thread starting about here:

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=283048&page=55

So, if you were blowing off the polished bearings and some sand or rust particles came out, it would be just like you were sandblasting it.

Best way, is to just do it like me.........I just lick'em clean!
 
Well I started Wednesday night and finished Saturday morning. Have the new rotors, studs, hub locks, shocks, fuel lines and fuel pump installed along with the new tire and wheel after the old one was destroyed. All it needs now is the headers and gauges it she will be completely repaired (minus cosmetics). Went up to Halfmoon Creek Saturday/Sunday, I'll post a trip report soon.

254652_10150249397639342_737969341_7528941_5286649_n.jpg
 
just a tip for future jobs or anyone doing a search, it's always easier to get that ring off if you tap the locking hub in a bit to releave the tension off that ring. Also gives you a gap behind it to hook it. :waytogo:
 
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