What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Help me figure out a SYE/driveshaft setup

dyeager535

dyeager535

1 ton status
 Premium
Joined
Dec 13, 2000
Posts
31,571
Solutions
1
Reaction score
2,910
Location
Roy, Washington
I want to be lazy, I would like someone to enable me in being so.

I'm currently running a 32 spline 465/205 non-slip yoke setup. All that stuff out of '85+ one tons, if it matters.

I'm running a driveshaft I won here years back. My driveline angle is bad. Turned the axle up before I knew better, so t-case output is "stock", pinion is pointed up. Perfect for CV, but I don't have a CV.

Plan is to convert to a 465/241 setup with SYE (http://www.jbconversions.com/products/sye/np241c_std_sye.php) and CV.

What is the best way to go CV with the SYE kit? Buy the 1350 flanged setup and work with someone to get a CV that mates up to it? I'm going to have to have a shaft made one way or the other, might as well do it right the first time.
 
I'd call Jesse at High angle and ask what output plays best with his CV shafts...then order that. As an aside the SYE kits are back ordered. I've been meaning to call and find out when they'll have stock again but haven't had the chance yet.
 
tRustyK5 said:
I'd call Jesse at High angle and ask what output plays best with his CV shafts...then order that. As an aside the SYE kits are back ordered. I've been meaning to call and find out when they'll have stock again but haven't had the chance yet.
Click to expand...

They told me anytime.:haha: I was going to use the flange mount to a 1350 cv not cheap but nice.
 
Huh. I actually conversed with JB in June-ish (then promptly got started on something else and didn't follow up) and they said July they would have them. Wonder if they sold out again or just never had them made. :(

The shaft I have came from Jesse, no reason I can't get the next one from him!

I'm guessing the CV shafts aren't cheap...judging by "standard" driveline prices today.
 
I'm pretty sure I bought the JB 241 SYE and CV shaft both from Tom Woods. It's been awhile. I do remember though that they "forgot" to shorten the output flange and I had to have that machined locally. Everything worked great and I have normal driveline noise.

Only thing, I wish I had done was have them set me up for a driveline parking brake at the same time.
 
Thing is - High angle driveline always wants to sell you their flange. There are flanges in junkyards everywhere, maybe even in your garage - they came mated with the front C/V driveshafts. I run those on both front and rear outputs of my 'case. I had the rear 1350 C/V shaft built to mate up with it. Saved me hundreds of dollars from the HAD solution.
 
So let me make sure I understand...if I wanted to sacrifice a late (flange front output) 205 t-case for parts, that flange and CV *could* be used as the basis for a rear driveline? It will mate up with the 241 SYE output/seal retainer?

Are the 241 front output flanges/CV's the same as the late 205, or are they smaller? Not sure I've got any front flanged driveshafts around, but I could look. You are right, they should be all over the place though. I've got two passenger drop 241's I can't inspect right now though, so the flange would be a no-brainer if they will work.
 
I'm using 32-spline flanges from the fronts of 208 cases. 205s also use 32-spline for the rear output, but some 205 front were 10-spline or 30-spline?. I don't think a front 1350 C/V was ever offered from the factory. It should be the S44 Saginaw joint, no?
 
Damn my internet! Too slow to research the different setups very well.

ORD has some info (http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/NP205tech.htm) so I've got a 30 spline front in the 205. Won't help me then.

Having a hard time finding out if the NP241C ('89-91 R/V series) had a front 32 spline setup, but I would assume yes since the 208 was...

The center square flange pictured here is what is on my 241's:
208yoke004.jpg


Without disassembling my truck, which I can't do now, I may be able to bolt that flange to the 205 output, and the 241 SYE output? Appears the seals are different, but that's not a big deal.

If I understand right, the idea would be to use the above flange on the 241 SYE output, which would then allow the CV joint from the front to be used on the rear? I saw somewhere what the CV joint series was (seems like 3RV but I can't find it again, S44 being the actual joints used in it?), is there a strength issue? Not like I'm turning huge tires with a huge motor at extreme angles, but if it's questionable, it's going to be a matter of buying a complete CV shaft with the 1350 joints. May end up buying a complete shaft anyway, don't see a later CV shaft joint in the garage.
 
I'm sure people have used front C/Vs for rear shafts, but I know it's not recommended. Hopefully somebody can chime in with experience one way or another.

Since you already know you need a new rear shaft, my suggestion was to put the square flange on your SYE output, then call up the driveline shop and have them build the driveshaft to match. There are off-the shelf driveline parts to build a 1350 C/V to mate with the square flange. FWIW I had Tatton build mine and ship to me. If you have some other flange, there might be an option for that as well. If you happen to find a "1-ton C/V" in a junkyard (Excursion or Expedition?) you could probably get that built in and then buy whatever flange matches (assuming the Ford T-case flange is not like GM 32-spline).
 
I did EXACTLY what you're doing: a SM465/241 swap earlier this year. I used JB Conversion's SYE with the 1350 flange.

I ended up getting 2 brand new CV driveshafts made at a local driveshaft shop. It ended up being a much cheaper option than what I was finding through the "well known" internet order places everyone has mentioned. I think I paid around $650 for BOTH shafts, and both have flange CVs. That's $650 for new tubes, new slip/stubs, CVs, and new joints, balanced and painted glossy black. The rear is 1350 for sure, but I can't remember right now if the front is also. Need more coffee...

If I were you, I wouldn't try and cobble something together. Call around to some local driveshaft shops and get some quotes. Have your measurements and CV flange specs ready. Call a FEW places too, because I was getting wildly different quotes from different places. I feel I paid a fair price for 2 brand new CV driveshafts, and the parts still say "Spicer" on them.
 
just noticed you are from roy, i had my cv built from some guy in yelm small shop. cheaper than the big name shops.
 
will this work

Blazer 1 ton drive lines - $200 (renton)
http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/pts/4707244766.html





© craigslist - Map data © OpenStreetMap
(google map) (yahoo map)

Custom drive lines from 85 Chevy k5 blazer was running dana 60 front and 14 bolt rear nice front and rear drive lines good u joints sell both for $200 cash

Call if interested 2o6455o797
 
Thanks for the info (both of you)....not many local driveline places left, had not checked Yelm, didn't know there was anyone there that could make them. I know the last drivelines I heard the price to build I was shocked. Guess that means one is old lol.

Anyone see any real problems with those Craigslist shafts? Obviously would want to check the spline engagement out, and may have to lengthen them, but even with a retube (rear only, already have a good front on the truck) are they worth asking price? Based on the condition I see most used driveshafts in, I'm a little hesitant to even consider used. FWIW the HAD driveshaft I have is a lot more massive than the rear shown in that ad.
 
How about your HAD shaft cut off to weld onto that C/V joint? That's basically the same price as getting a shaft shortened. If you need to re-tube anyway, you could go with bigger tube, then sell your current HAD shaft on here. Between that and selling that front shaft you could be close to breaking even...

Hard to tell what the front shaft mates with, but it sounds like it doesn't matter.
 
The way the splines are setup on those seems odd to me.

I can't check the ones out I have now, but I'm pretty sure both the OEM front and rears, and I know the HAD rear, has the slip section further away from the yokes. Both of those would have the splines nearest the dirt at all times.

I don't put a lot of miles on this thing, and am pretty good at keeping stuff lubed, for my purposes perhaps I'm overthinking that? Both those CV's look to be what is factory on the fronts to me.
 
To dredge this back up...

Since the front and rear outputs of the 241C are 32 spline, shouldn't the front flange fit over the slip yoke output shaft?

I wouldn't run it that way, but both are 32 spline, and the flange won't fit on either of the 241C slip shaft outputs I have. One was pretty rusty, so I hit it with a wire wheel to no avail, but the other came out of a running/driving truck and doesn't fit on there either. The flange starts into the splines fine, but it's as if the splines are taller on the rear output than the front. Do not see any "keyed" splines, so pretty sure thats not the issue.

Suppose I should have measured the shaft diameter, but sure doesn't seem to make much sense that they would be different.
 
Diameter of the shaft may be different on the slip yoke shaft. The factory wouldn't want people on the assembly line putting parts on the wrong end :tongue1:
 
kennyw said:
Diameter of the shaft may be different on the slip yoke shaft. The factory wouldn't want people on the assembly line putting parts on the wrong end :tongue1:
Click to expand...

I was kind of thinking the same thing. Doesn't seem to make a whole lot of sense no matter what, but not fitting on either shaft, don't know what else it could be. 241C outputs are all the same spline setup, no?

It wasn't like I didn't try, I used a 5lb dead blow on it, that thing was not going on much further. Easily removed and replaced on the front output though. Did not appear to have ever been apart before.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom