Help me find a trailer?

[Blue85]

I'm looking for a car hauler trailer. Since it's always a hobby on CK5 to help other people spend their money and I've never owned a car hauler before I thought I'd ask for help. The first job in mind is to put my K5 on it and tow with my Suburban, as part of moving away with 4 trucks. I suppose it's also a requirement that a Suburban could go on it if needed. I'm not looking for a show-winner and not afraid of doing a little work on it, but I won't have a lot of time with it before needing to tow. I just don't want to end up with something inadequate for the job.

K5 is on 38's, around 6100lbs. Outside with of the tires is 84". Wheelbase is close to stock (shackle flip rear and front axle 1" forward).

Suburban is GMT-800 series 2500 Quadrasteer, now with 8.1L, yet to be driven since the swap. So obviously no goosenecks. These trucks were rated to tow 12,000 lbs, but I think only 10,700 with Quadrasteer (perhaps because of the D60 rear instead of 14BFF, plus the Q-steer weighs more). Yes, I know that a bigger engine only reduces tow capacity by adding 200lbs on the front axle. It's been used for towing a camper, so it has brake controller, etc.

General area to search is Grand Rapids, MI, up to about Big Rapids, MI (closest town to me is Cedar Springs).

 

[obijuank5]

Man I gotta say I love my big tex 10et. Open your search to equipment trailers. You can get more options than just searching car hauler. My blazer absolutely wrecked tires on a 5 lug steel deck 18'. Definitely at max capacity or past it.

 

[76zimmer]

I Don't recommend Interstate 1
I have had plenty of brake and tire issues over the years. It pulls fine, but those issues make it a PITA.
I like a wooden deck for the ease of anchoring things down on it, , but my fenders are only 82-83, and a hard squeeze on the tires (39.5-15-16.5) without over fender ramps.

 

[Blue85]

Something like this: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/276378060644784/?ref=search&referral_code=undefined. Is it reasonable to squeeze the tires between the fenders or do you scar them up? What about pintle hitch? Does that preclude the use of weight distribution? Do people think there is a kind of hitch made from pinto beans?

 

[nvrenuf]

Another vote for an equipment trailer, I LOVE my Big Tex 12ET. Just because it’s listed as an equipment trailer doesn’t mean it’s crazy big or requires anything special. Mine looks like a big 8 lug car trailer.

Most importantly, don’t buy too small. The trailer capacity includes it’s own weight so a typical 7500 lb car trailer is only good for about 6k worth of load so your 6100 lb Blazer would work that trailer at 100%+ capacity, no comfort margin.

 

[ktmoutfront]

10k equipment trailer. Wood floor, removable fenders. Mine takes 2 bolts per fender to remove them.

 

[eric67camino]

Trailers | Starlite Trailers Tulsa OK

918-342-1044 - Starlite Trailers Tulsa OK specializes in flatdeck trailers, utility trailers, single axle trailers, tandem axle trailers, car haulers and equipment haulers.

www.starlitetrailers.com

I've used one of these before and its now on my wish list. It's a 20' Starlite equipment trailer. 18'+2' dovetail. Dual 7k axles. Electric trailer brakes. The ramps were fold down with a kicker leg for support, but could be unpinned and removed for a longer vehicle to fit. Heavy duty drop leg jack.

Had to rent it to haul my '98 K3500 ext cab long bed dually when our regular trailer broke. If i remember correctly, the nose was just over the front edge of the deck and the duals fit right up to the fenders. Had to remove the ramps to clear the tail.

Buying a trailer is like building a shop. I always recommend going a size over what you think you will need.

 

[76zimmer]

Ive squeezed my tires through multiple times, a couple inches on each side....if they’re rock crawlin tires, not to worry, but if they’re mall crawler tires worry!
I went for a 12k, and the trailer is 3600. The Maiden is 6800.
I would get a 20-22’er with a beaver tail, removable fenders, 8-12 tie down D rings welded to the frame. And check out the front crossbar to see if its stout enough to winch your truck up if needed.

 

[fourwheelerjeff]

most of our rigs will be wider than the usual 82-83 inches between the fenders on most car haulers or equipment trailers. I just had this trailer built a year ago. it is 20 feet long and 102 inches wide with drive over fenders. I had it built wider than normal so the tires would not hang off the sides.

 

[skunked]

PJ Buggy Hauler.

 

[sweetk30]

Few things i can add is this .

Leave some capacity avalible . Dont buy a 8k and runat 7,950 all the time .

If going 6 or 8 lug and have the room for 16" tires get some 12 or 14 ply . Lot less sway from sidewalls and last longer .

 

[fourwheelerjeff]

PJ Buggy Hauler.

I was actually looking at a PJ buggy hauler and had called a dealership a couple of times and was about to make the trip to buy it when I contacted this guy and he built it how I wanted it for less.

 

[6.2Blazer]

I've used an 18' steel deck car hauler for years. The trailer place said it was a 9,000 lb. capacity trailer versus the typical 7,000 or 10,400 lb. tandem trailers and I didn't know any better at the time, but have since realized it just has 3,500 lb. tandem axles with 6 lug hubs. Anyway, I've never had an issue with it.

Generally the decks are only 82"-83" between the fenders. Myself and several guys in our club built simple drive over ramps that sit just inside the fenders. Mine were just 4x4's stacked and then cut at an angle on each side. It's much faster to load and unload driving over ramps versus having to get out and remove and install fenders each time. Weight distribution was perfect if I pulled the rear tires right up against the ramps. The downside to ramps is that it's tough to load or unload the truck if it breaks. I simply broke a front axleshaft on my locked front end one time and it was a pain unloading it...was raining for the steel deck was slick, tried backing up over the ramps and the tires spun and threw the back in sideways. I think having ramps is the quickest way to normal load and unloading but have it so the fenders and ramps are removeable if needed.

For tiedowns having welded on d-rings at each corner of the trailer is ideal. For straps I used ratchets with twisted snap ring hooks at each end and the built in axle strap. You took one end and wrapped it around the axle and hooked it back on a ring on the strap, and the other end snapped onto the d-ring. Very fast and easy, and no way it could come unhooked.