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Help me fit my tires and lift, k5 lovers!

Will I be able to fit 34x9.5R15 TSLs on my 91 K5 with only a 1" body lift?

  • Yes! No major rubbing!

    Votes: 15 24.2%
  • Yes, but it'll rub bad during normal street driving

    Votes: 14 22.6%
  • No, but its close, you might have to trim

    Votes: 24 38.7%
  • No, not a chance.

    Votes: 9 14.5%

  • Total voters
    62

nychopshop

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As the first modification on my k5, newly purchased, I plan on lifting the body off the frame and adding a 1" ORD body lift with new body mounts. I need to Rust Bullet the bottom of my body badly, I figure I'd get it done as completely as I can while the body is off. I purchased blazenoffroad weld on rocksliders, as my rocker panels are rusted badly, and the drivers side one is clean off the truck. I'm also bolting on some ORD sway bar disconnects.

HERE IS MY QUESTION:
With a 1" body lift, and no other modifications so far, will I be able to run 34x9.5r15 SS TSLs without any serious need to trim body off for normal driving?

I'll be lifting its suspension and doing many other serious drivetrain upgrades as soon as I have finished the body, paint, and engine work I'm working on, so I'm just doing a little stage 1 lift while I address the real issue now - the rust.
 
You will have to trim but not a ton. Why the body lift?
The body lift to add more clearance. I'm pulling off the body to treat the rust issues, so I might as well. I'm also not getting all the way into my 6" lift yet, as I will be simultaneously swapping in a D60/C14b out of a M1008 CUCV truck. Again, I have a lot of issues to worry about before lifting my truck 'the right way' and I figure a 1" body lift can only help me achieve what I'm going for, even if only an inch at a time.
 
I think it will be ok. You will most likely rub when flexed but I think you will be ok for normal driving. I ran 33x12.5's on my stock K5 for a while and never had problems. It rubbed in the back but never in the front while wheeling. Leave the sway bar hooked up in the front to help limit the flex.
 
I think it will be ok. You will most likely rub when flexed but I think you will be ok for normal driving. I ran 33x12.5's on my stock K5 for a while and never had problems. It rubbed in the back but never in the front while wheeling. Leave the sway bar hooked up in the front to help limit the flex.
2 replies with info about 33s. Keep in mind that most 33s are 3 inches wider in tread width than the 34" TSLs, a reason I'm even considering this. Anyone out there actually run 34s on a blazer? what do you use to fit them?
 
wow wowow wow hold the phone, i remember, my friends dad has a blazer on 34s stock height, inner fender is still ther,e but is trimmed as much as physically possible, rubbing, most likely. a 1" body lift may help so i think you COULD get away with it, consider a 2" though..

i wish i had a picture.
 
wow wowow wow hold the phone, i remember, my friends dad has a blazer on 34s stock height, inner fender is still ther,e but is trimmed as much as physically possible, rubbing, most likely. a 1" body lift may help so i think you COULD get away with it, consider a 2" though..

i wish i had a picture.

you just gave me a headache trying to read that.

dont go any higher than a 1" body lift, to me a body lift is never a good idea but if your going to install one. go as small as possible.
 
you just gave me a headache trying to read that.

dont go any higher than a 1" body lift, to me a body lift is never a good idea but if your going to install one. go as small as possible.
I completely agree. I wouldn't ever lift my truck's body more than 1" for a variety of reasons. I just figure throwing a 1" body lift under my truck with new body mounts should be done if I'm pulling the frame off to do an excellent job curing my rust issue. I wanted to fit the right tires on stock wheels for now for the winter, as large as possible, but this is stage 1 of 3. I'm working on many other things before I do the whole spring and axle setup including the body, the engine, blablabla. I'd much sooner armor up against the rocks than go big and tall - I drive my truck on the streets of New York City. For now, I want the biggest tires I can safely fit while minimizing the body trimming I have to do myself. I know its an issue all K5 owners face sooner or later, and I'm doing my body work in the near future, but I don't want to maul my body like I've seen some people do in favor of clearance.
 
So what then?

Anyone have just a 1" body lift? What tire size worked for them? I know I see a lot of stockers on 33" tires, but I'm wondering whether or not I could fit those 12.5" wide tires on my stock k5 rims. I'm not planning on getting new rims until I shell out for the 16.5" hummer rims to fit my d60/c14 combo. Anyone have any input on the subject before I pull the trigger and buy 33s?
 
well i trimmed my front fenders pretty good to fit my 35" 12.50/15's on stock suspension. didnt really need to trim that much till i went and removed the sway bar and changed to 10" wide rims. also a friend of mine has a 88 burb 3/4T that we put the same 35" muds on with no lift and a minor trim at the bottom of the fender
 
Mine is stock height with 33" BFG AT's, 8" wide rim 3.5" BS. Only hits when slightly turned and flexing. Yesterday, I :hack: 1" the bottom corners at 45 degrees. Not 34" but you get the idea.
 
I had an 81 K5 years ago, and put the same size (in Super Swampers) on it.It had NO lift,but I did have to trim the back corner of the front wheel well only slightly. A body lift would take care of that, I would think. You won't have ALOT of room if you play rough, but normal driving for me was OK.

Beware of old man winter, though--- the tires I had would pop off the rim at nothing when it was cold!


Good luck.
 
I've got 33s on 10" wide 15" rims. No problems on the street, haven't gone offroad with it due to issues with the front axle, but on the street (driveways, etc) there haven't been any problems.
 
Go with no body lift (replacing the trashed stock mounts with good poly mounts while you've got it apart, but stock height) and run 33 x 12.50's on the stock rims (no problem running 12.50's on stock wheels) until you do the rest of your planned upgrades. 33's are plentiful and cheap anyway and with the backspacing of a stock wheel, they'll fit no problem... although if you disconnect the sway bar off road you'll see some rubbing.
 
Go with no body lift (replacing the trashed stock mounts with good poly mounts while you've got it apart, but stock height) and run 33 x 12.50's on the stock rims (no problem running 12.50's on stock wheels) until you do the rest of your planned upgrades. 33's are plentiful and cheap anyway and with the backspacing of a stock wheel, they'll fit no problem... although if you disconnect the sway bar off road you'll see some rubbing.

Seconded.
Get some nice urithane body mounts and call it a day. Do NOT do the body lift unless it's truly needed.
My first blazer was an 87 w/ a 3" body lift and stock susp. I didn't even know it was a body lift, as I was not knowledgeable about these trucks at the time. The only things the body lift did was put unneccessary stress on the body, allowed it to rust underneath faster, AND messed up my steering and trannly inkages after a while.
Since crap can get between the body and frame better, ESPECIALLY with a 3" body lift, and I live in the rust belt, the 3" body pucks actually trapped salt and water better. Eventually they started rusting out th emounts through the floor, and coming through. If I had the truck for a few more weeks, the body would have fallen on the frame...
 
Thirded !! [is that a word?] don't do a body lift ,get your 33's mounted on stock rims , keep the swaybar connected,enjoy the rig now and when you go and make your changes[which you will] don't be afraid of the bodysaw:hack::grind::hack::D.
 
well i had a set of 34x9.50 tsl's on a set of ralley wheels on my blazer with a 4" lift and they were close to rubbing at full flex. so unless you plan to take out your inner fenders and do some major cutting its not going to work just my opinion.
 
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