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help me plan my build: 1987 suburban

You know that the 44 cross-over will not work on the 60?

I would keep the lift that you have and do shackel flip in the back and do some fender trimming

I'm going to be starting my build here in a bit maybe even today but don't tell Clod King cuz I am going to steal some of his ideas.
 
kgblazerfive said:
You know that the 44 cross-over will not work on the 60?

I would keep the lift that you have and do shackel flip in the back and do some fender trimming

I'm going to be starting my build here in a bit maybe even today but don't tell Clod King cuz I am going to steal some of his ideas.
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yeah after a bit of research i figured that out today... im going to go ahead and get take a look at the 60 tomorrow and take it from there. do you think 900 is a good price? im gonna offer him 5 and see if he takes it.
 
mini_mull said:
If you're doing a D60 soon, you're going to want to do your D60 first and then crossover, or you'll be buying arms twice and that's the most expensive part. The only parts you can get at the pull yard would be the 2wd steering box and pitman arm. Or you can just get the sector shaft and pitman arm, but then you have to disassemble your box to put in the new sector shaft.
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That's what I was trying to tell you. Guess I didn't make myself clear. At least you've got it now. BTW, the guy would be an idiot to give you a Chevy D60 for $500 unless it's missing parts. $900 would be a great price is it's complete and not trashed. If you can post some pics of it before you buy and the experts will let you know what they think. Let me also recommend some lite reading if you haven't found this already.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/index.html

And when you're done with that here's some more

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/1 ton axles.pdf

Everything you ever need to know about D60s should be covered there. Make sure you do your homework before you start throwing money around or you might end up throwing it away.

One more note, it's almost always cheaper to get the axles with the gears you want already, if possible. IE, if you want 4.56s it would be cheaper to go that route to begin with vs 4.10s and regearing. However, if you're planning to go lower than was available stock it doesn't matter as much since you'll probably have a harder time finding the gearing you want already installed.

Good luck.
 
$500 is a good price but the fool part comes in if he says yes but I have bought them for cheaper so it is possible, well I bought a whole truck for $800 then sold everything but the axels for $400 and I got a HP 60. So offer the $500 worst he can say is take a hike :D
 
If you ever need an extra hand working on your truck just PM me I live over on the west side and would be glad to help
 
Dont listen to the fender hackers, in my oppinion nothing is sweeter than a huge burb. Built or buy body armor. Get the axles you want FIRST. But most importantly build it YOUR way and have fun.

Balzer
 
NorCalKid said:
If you ever need an extra hand working on your truck just PM me I live over on the west side and would be glad to help
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the west side of santa cruz? yeah that would be great actually... i just got the D60 today (and yes i did my research thanks mini mull) and its in the back of my tow rig. we lifted it up with a forklift but getting it out might be a problem. i'm probably gonna need 8 strong guys to lift it out. i'm gonna tie the axels to a pipe by a rope and then lift the pipes out and over and off the truck.

anyways here's my new purchase! $750 cost $150 more than the price i paid for my truck. and i checked the inside and its CLEAN! looks better than whats inside of my front end thats for sure. it was used on a 1990 dually that was rarely put into 4wheel because the truck was mainly used to haul strawberries from the fields. the only thing that will need to be changed are the hubs because it came off of a dually. the guy i bought the 60 from said he knows a guy in san jose who can hook me up with some hubs for about $70. good deal. ill get more pics later of the inside when its out of the truck.

now here's the eye candy:

cimg1749am7.jpg



cimg1750fq0.jpg


cimg1751fu3.jpg



cimg1752gf5.jpg
 
hey, are you in need of the dually rims? nice find
 
Good lookin' burb! :thumb: Sounds like you've got good plans for it! I hear ya on the not wanting to cut the fenders, it has taken me quite a while to decide to hack my Jimmy's fenders! I'm pretty sure I'm gonna though, 'cause I want a low COG! Anyways, I like your build ideas, the only thing I have to add is another voice saying-if you can hold off the engine swap, build up the drivetrain first! Looks like that's what you're doing so, good!:D
 
Have you thought anymore about the 383? You really could have done it before the drivetrain upgrade since you have 3/4ton axles, but at least now you know you won't break anything when you put on those 39s. Check out the GMPP HT383. Good torque=good offroad. Plus if you're keeping the TBI check out turbocity.com and xtreme-fi on ebay for some info on making your TBI keep up with an engine that will be hungrier for more air and fuel. Do you have to deal with the smog police in your area of CA?
 
ugh. dont remind me about the smog nazis!:mad:

yeah i do have to deal with them. i'd prefer to get the whole system done legally (smog legal headers, all that etc) but im pretty sure i have a clogged cat so i think i might have a guy i know smog me on the low down:crazy:

besides the fact that i'm gonna be doing 2 headers> 2 flowmaster 40's> 2 dumps. i'm over dealing with cats. i hate them.

i'm not sure where to buy my 383 yet and i think ill have to wait a month or two so i can get some more paychecks but its still definately on my list. i've found a 10 inch lift for sale locally for 600 bucks. a bit steep so im gonna see if i can talk him down to 300 or at least 400.


but if anyone has an idea where i can get a 383 with a considerable amount of HP+ torque, let me know!
 
FlatBlackBurb said:
ugh. dont remind me about the smog nazis!:mad:

yeah i do have to deal with them. i'd prefer to get the whole system done legally (smog legal headers, all that etc) but im pretty sure i have a clogged cat so i think i might have a guy i know smog me on the low down:crazy:

besides the fact that i'm gonna be doing 2 headers> 2 flowmaster 40's> 2 dumps. i'm over dealing with cats. i hate them.

i'm not sure where to buy my 383 yet and i think ill have to wait a month or two so i can get some more paychecks but its still definately on my list. i've found a 10 inch lift for sale locally for 600 bucks. a bit steep so im gonna see if i can talk him down to 300 or at least 400.


but if anyone has an idea where i can get a 383 with a considerable amount of HP+ torque, let me know!
Click to expand...

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=171600&highlight=yearone+crate

You don't need a 383 to make a ton of power... check out the link :wink1:


or go to JEGs:
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_761056_-1_10763
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_761054_-1_10763
 
That one on ebay is local for me. Maybe one of the AZ guys knows about them. As for the Year One, I'd want to see the dyno numbers under 3K rpms before I bought that and any other engine for that matter. 2-3K rpms is the part of the powerband that matters most for almost everything offroad, except mud, IMO. That's what is most impressive about the HT383, it produces 400+ft-lbs torque from 1500-3000rpms, IIRC.

As for exhaust, why are you done with cats? Aftermarket ones aren't nearly as restrictive, and anywhere with any smog checks requires them if they were originally on the truck. Staying legal on little things like that can sometimes give you a lot less headaches down the road. Just my opinion though, I'm not the smog police. Also as far as true duals the consensus is you don't really need more than 3" single unless you're doing over 500hp. But to each his own. ;)
 
go for true duels! I'd go 2 1/2 inch duels if I were you. would be perfect with a set of headers. ;)
 
for your steering wheel issue i had the same problem my buddy took the wheel off and a few more things tightend some screws and put it back to normal it was a easy job about thirty to hour depending saves putting a new one in . If you know a mechanic friend he may know someone who can do it for you or you can give it a shot
 
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