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help me spend my $$ on parts

jake77

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Abilene Texas
just taking a little bit of a survey, i have 500 bucks and need to spend it on my engine, it has 135,XXX miles and it is very tired, especially after the new 35" tires last month, so brethren please give me some ideals. The engine is a 1980 350!

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$500 isn't a whole lot for engine upgrades. What gears are in your axles? Might be a better idea to find some with deeper gears. Should get you a good used set in your price range.
 
gears are 303 lol, i know i know i need gears, but the engine barley runs misses and all sorts of b.s. so my focus has to be on the engine for now, not nececarrly up grades but maint etc. the dizzy is super worn out, so it is a def. replacement
 
Summit sells a decent HEI dizzy for $80. I've got 2 of them, both have worked well. New dizzy, wires and plugs. $150. How's your carb?
 
Check the engines compression?? if its lows then consider a fix.. if thats not the case then $500 may not make your engine stronger you can do an intake, carb, air filter, headders maybe and it wont be much of a diference IMO... do gears. or find some nice used parts.
 
the carb is also in question it is an edelbrock, it was rebuilt by p.o. who's skills are def. in question, i will get the dizzy i was looking at that mine is toast the rotor will move freely from the 12 position to almost the 3 o'clock freely
 
you need to investigate your engine a bit more. Compression test, leakdown test if you can.

You could put 500 bucks into a cool ignition and 500 bucks into a carb but if you have worn out rings, or valves that are shot, its not going to matter one little whit.

Find out why your engine is gutless. If it has internal problems nothing but a rebuild will do anything
 
this is true blazinuk and the right way to go thanks, i think i have vacuum issues too, i am a little boggled at where to start on this thing
 
this is true blazinuk and the right way to go thanks, i think i have vacuum issues too, i am a little boggled at where to start on this thing

Got a repair book? get one. You might be able to go to your local library and copy certain pages out of a factory manual. Ours had one for my 73.

There is so much knowledge on this website if you find a specific problem I bet you would have a specific answer in short order.
 
Got a repair book? get one. You might be able to go to your local library and copy certain pages out of a factory manual. Ours had one for my 73.

There is so much knowledge on this website if you find a specific problem I bet you would have a specific answer in short order.

yep this site is cool beans
 
the thing about ignition and carb is that they will swap to a new motor if it comes to that and you're not out any extra money. 130k miles isn't unreasonable. Not saying leakdown and compression isn't a good idea, but good ignition and fuel delivery can go a long way. Both my older engines backfired and ran rough when I bought the trucks. Replaced the little stuff and they ran much better.
 
chalet that is a good point, i worked on it tonight and got a few little things figured out.it seems to run pretty good now except when cold and then after its warm it really lopes alot almost dies, i am going to keep figuring things out as i go along, prolly going to try to trouble shoot some vacuum issues tomorrow
 
$250: Rebuild kit for 350
$150: Dizzy/ Plugs/ Wires
$100: Fuilds/ Belts/ Hoses

A 350 is stupid simple to rebuild and the kits are readily available on line for between $200-$500. Add new dizzy from summit and replace any belts and hoses that look worn and you have a runner and a fresh start.
 
$250: Rebuild kit for 350
$150: Dizzy/ Plugs/ Wires
$100: Fuilds/ Belts/ Hoses

A 350 is stupid simple to rebuild and the kits are readily available on line for between $200-$500. Add new dizzy from summit and replace any belts and hoses that look worn and you have a runner and a fresh start.

I wish it was that easy... :rolleyes:

Face value looks that way until you get it apart and realize that the bores are taperd and the heads new a valve job. Once you find that then you can tripple your price tag. :doah:


My advice to you is to rebuild your carb, replace the distributor/plugs/wires, replace ALL the vacuum lines, and then time and tune the engine. I bet you'd be amazed on what a difference it can make.
 
yep chevy305 you are also right and this engine has been rode hard and put up wet for a long time, im going to start with some small cheap things and work my way up, hoping to catch the trouble on the way, every vacuum hose etc. ive already done quite a bit, keep the ideals coming guys
 
I wish it was that easy... :rolleyes:

Face value looks that way until you get it apart and realize that the bores are taperd and the heads new a valve job. Once you find that then you can tripple your price tag. :doah:


My advice to you is to rebuild your carb, replace the distributor/plugs/wires, replace ALL the vacuum lines, and then time and tune the engine. I bet you'd be amazed on what a difference it can make.

I know I over simplified things but my point was more that getting a rebuild kit and other parts to rebuild the motor would be a sound investment rather than buying new accessories- advising him to get the parts that will fix the problem rather than things that may or may not prolong the inevitable.

The long ans short of what i meant was to keep the lipstick off the pig...
 
Healthy engine, weak engine, neither of them are going to be happy turning 35's with 3.08 gears.

Martin
 
Healthy engine, weak engine, neither of them are going to be happy turning 35's with 3.08 gears.

Martin

This engine needed help before the 35", but now it is extremly bad, the engine dosent know what gears are in the pumkins when it is in park sputtering and spurtin like an ole washing machine, im getting vacuum hoses tonight ive already changed the cap and rotor, tonoght i will also change the plugs and wires as they are old.
 
Spend $50 on tuneup parts. Then spend $3-$400 on ring and pinions or a set of axles that already have 4.56 in them. Even a big block won't work right with 3.08 and 35's. If you're dead set on only working on the engine, then step down to 29" tires, which are almost small enough for your gears.
 
As has been said I think gears might be great bang for the buck for ya'. I say do a basic tune-up with distributor, plugs and wires and get it running decent then look into finding a set of axles with 4.10's.
I put a new intake manifold, carb, headers and full ignition system on my k10 and it woke it right up so once you have decent gears for your tires I'd go that route.
 

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