figure i'll throw a couple adjustment tips in here... if the bushings are tight and you need to adjust the gaps, here's a few from a former frame machine guy...
first, it's a wise idea, to take an awl and make a scribe mark on the door around the hinge first, to notate the doors original position before adjusting..
if the door needs to be tipped in, or out, at the top or bottom, this is done by loosening the bolts that go into the door...
generally the best way to make adjustments is to leave one bolt somewhat tight, on the opposite hinge from where the door needs to move.. so it can pivot on that bolt.. in other words, if the bottom of the door needs to come in, loosen all the bolts, except the top most bolt, then move the bottom of the door in..
the door can also be adjusted totally up and down to some extent by those bolts, in that case, you'll loosen them all.. just be aware that not only will the door move up and down now, but in or out at the top or bottom.. a floorjack and 2 x 4 are always handy for raising and lowering the door...
now, the bad... if the door needs to be angled down or up, front to back, you need to adjust the bolts thats go into the cowl.. this can be problematic, as they are nearly impossible to get to with the fender on... also one bolt on the top hinge is accessed from inside the cab, thru a hole, up above the e-brake lever..
unfortunately, it's usually best to remove the fender for these adjustments.. then reinstall/adjust the fender.. even if you can manage to get the bolts loose with every assortment of 1/4" drive swivel-y tool or wrench you own, you can't tighten them once adjusted...
if anyone needs help with gap work, feel free to pm me...
moment, and called himself out for it. 
