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Help Needed - MP3023 Transfer Case Rebuild Options-Instructions

ZombieK5

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Was about to fill the transfer case on the 2014 Silverado High County. Pulled the plug (fluid was already drained) and let the last drops of fluid to drain. I stuck a magnetic screwdriver in and out came some pieces of metal larger than dust. Also dug out another piece that was plastic and 1" long. I searched and it seems it is from a THRUST BEARING. Pretty sure it came off the main shaft.

So....options. I could fill it and run it but the absence of the thrust bearing will cause metal to metal contact resulting in eventual failure.

I could rebuild the unit (parts seem to be about $350)

I could buy a reman unit (prices range from $1000 - $2200)

I have the tools and have done my NP205.

ISSUES

YouTube is seriously lacking in videos for this transfer case. Found a video for a MP1222 which is practically the same but a manual shift version. It seems to be the closest I can find.

Parts - several companies sell kits with seals and bearings but none say if they are Chinesium or made in Japan/USA

Anyone have a source for this transfer case (video, written Manuel, etc...)

Any recommendations for parts is also welcome.

20250818_185547.jpg

20250818_185535.jpg

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If the other case is truly the same, but manual shift, those directions should work for you. The difference is usually just the shift shaft, on the part external to the case. There may be a difference in the casting there as well, for the actuator to sit, vs a lever. But the shifting is done externally, either way. However, if one is "auto" it and the other full manual, there will be some differences for clutch and electric actuator. file:///C:/Users/Administrator/Downloads/MP_Transfer_Cases.pdf

It may be mostly the same as the Dodge version: https://free-auto-repair-manuals.com/wp-content/uploads/PDF/Dodge/107000000214.pdf
 
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I saw the electric version has a clutch pack. 8 friction discs and 7 steels. Chevy sells them but I've never done a Xfer case with a clutch pack. There apparently are shims involved. Looking for any guidance on the clutch part.
 
If the vehicle has low miles in "Auto" mode, chances are the clutch won't need anything. I had a Cadillac CTS transfer case apart at like 240,000 miles and the clutch looked fine. Those cars are basically always in Auto mode. The clutch only slips as the rear wheels lose traction and the front shaft is engaged.

You've got to decide the balance between "fixing it" and replacing everything possible. Sometimes if things look OK, it's best to leave the OEM parts in place rather than replace with aftermarket just for the sake of "fresh". Probably best to tear down first and then decide, if you can wait.
 
If the vehicle has low miles in "Auto" mode, chances are the clutch won't need anything. I had a Cadillac CTS transfer case apart at like 240,000 miles and the clutch looked fine. Those cars are basically always in Auto mode. The clutch only slips as the rear wheels lose traction and the front shaft is engaged.

You've got to decide the balance between "fixing it" and replacing everything possible. Sometimes if things look OK, it's best to leave the OEM parts in place rather than replace with aftermarket just for the sake of "fresh". Probably best to tear down first and then decide, if you can wait.
Agree on that philosophy.

175,000 miles

The fluid was BLACK with gun metal gray metallic undertones. I may keep the forward driveshaft gears/Seals in, they seem fine. The input and rear output are my concern.

I'm gonna order bearings, clutches and seals. I'll tear into it and see what's what but I am not optimistic.

I have 5 or 6 engine stands, I'm gonna fab one into a transfer case stand.
 
Are these models prone to eating through the case? Maybe somebody makes a repair kit for that?
 
If the vehicle has low miles in "Auto" mode, chances are the clutch won't need anything. I had a Cadillac CTS transfer case apart at like 240,000 miles and the clutch looked fine. Those cars are basically always in Auto mode. The clutch only slips as the rear wheels lose traction and the front shaft is engaged.

You've got to decide the balance between "fixing it" and replacing everything possible. Sometimes if things look OK, it's best to leave the OEM parts in place rather than replace with aftermarket just for the sake of "fresh". Probably best to tear down first and then decide, if you can wait.
I believe in "Right to Fix" and I hate how they are making it near impossible to fix modern machenery.

The tool to correctly measure the clutches is $800. JUST THE TOOL.

I'm gonna tear this down and see what is going on. I'll check for burnt clutch discs.

I understand there are tools needed to fix things but there need to be alternate methods to having to buy a $800 tool.
 
If the vehicle has low miles in "Auto" mode, chances are the clutch won't need anything. I had a Cadillac CTS transfer case apart at like 240,000 miles and the clutch looked fine. Those cars are basically always in Auto mode. The clutch only slips as the rear wheels lose traction and the front shaft is engaged.

You've got to decide the balance between "fixing it" and replacing everything possible. Sometimes if things look OK, it's best to leave the OEM parts in place rather than replace with aftermarket just for the sake of "fresh". Probably best to tear down first and then decide, if you can wait.
Do you know any transmission gurus on in this group?

I have a question. This $800 tool just seems to compress the clutch pack to measure thickness. Can a bench vise do the same??

What does this tool do a bench vise or any other clamping devise do?

Here is the instructions...

Screenshot_20250820_064327_Firefox.jpg

Screenshot_20250820_064347_Firefox.jpg
 
The clutch pack is just like what you'd find in an automatic transmission. It's common to have a bunch of special tools "required" that can be improvised around. I know I've done clutch compressors out of angle iron and all-thread before. Having to apply a specific pressure is a new one for me. I'm not sure how to do it, other than get a heavy spring and measure the rate using a scale and some weights. Then the compression gives you the loading. However, they don't tell you what load the tool is applying, so :dunno: .

Here's my ideas:
  1. Take the clutch to a shop that has that tool. Pay them to measure it or pay them to set the clutch up.
  2. See if the whole clutch assembly is available for purchase.
  3. Do a visual inspection and if it looks good, send it.
Our guru is @Greg Ducato.
 
Yea, this is new territory.

I am going to disassemble it and see how bad the clutches are. I'll try to find what OEM spec is for the friction and steels discs are.

I may buy the tool and sell afterwards on eBay for a reduced price. I have done that with some other special tools I've needed.

I'll look for a Tranny shop and see if they can help. If I can find that this tool is useful elsewhere, I'll keep it.
 
The clutch pack is just like what you'd find in an automatic transmission. It's common to have a bunch of special tools "required" that can be improvised around. I know I've done clutch compressors out of angle iron and all-thread before. Having to apply a specific pressure is a new one for me. I'm not sure how to do it, other than get a heavy spring and measure the rate using a scale and some weights. Then the compression gives you the loading. However, they don't tell you what load the tool is applying, so :dunno: .

Here's my ideas:
  1. Take the clutch to a shop that has that tool. Pay them to measure it or pay them to set the clutch up.
  2. See if the whole clutch assembly is available for purchase.
  3. Do a visual inspection and if it looks good, send it.
Our guru is @Greg Ducato.

GMGlobalTools.com has the tool for $436. I can better stomach that price.

If I had a GM ID number I'd be cheaper.

Screenshot_20250820_110544_Firefox.jpg
 
That tool is part of a Kent Moore DT-48218 X2T that can be had for less than $100 on eBay.
 
That tool is part of a Kent Moore DT-48218 X2T that can be had for less than $100 on eBay.
HOLY Fk Batman

You are a genius and I owe you a beer. If you're ever in the Philly area, drinks on me!!

Why is the part by itself $750 but in a kit with MORE tools less than $100.

Screenshot_20250820_111213_Firefox.jpg
 
HOLY Fk Batman

You are a genius and I owe you a beer. If you're ever in the Philly area, drinks on me!!

Why is the part by itself $750 but in a kit with MORE tools less than $100.

View attachment 510733
I think GM requires dealerships to buy all of the ridiculously priced service tools for most if not all of the vehicles they sell. Most aren’t really needed and aren’t ever used. Once the newer models come out, I think they are no longer required to have them and they dump them on eBay. You can get all types of specialized tools really cheap if you can figure out the Kent-Moore part number.
 
Was about to fill the transfer case on the 2014 Silverado High County. Pulled the plug (fluid was already drained) and let the last drops of fluid to drain. I stuck a magnetic screwdriver in and out came some pieces of metal larger than dust. Also dug out another piece that was plastic and 1" long. I searched and it seems it is from a THRUST BEARING. Pretty sure it came off the main shaft.

So....options. I could fill it and run it but the absence of the thrust bearing will cause metal to metal contact resulting in eventual failure.

I could rebuild the unit (parts seem to be about $350)

I could buy a reman unit (prices range from $1000 - $2200)

I have the tools and have done my NP205.

ISSUES

YouTube is seriously lacking in videos for this transfer case. Found a video for a MP1222 which is practically the same but a manual shift version. It seems to be the closest I can find.

Parts - several companies sell kits with seals and bearings but none say if they are Chinesium or made in Japan/USA

Anyone have a source for this transfer case (video, written Manuel, etc...)

Any recommendations for parts is also welcome.

View attachment 510666

View attachment 510667

View attachment 510668
If it were mine, I'd rebuild. Then you know what you have.
Most public libraries offer the full size shop service manuals to browse, copy or take pics of.
 
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