Help reading Wiring Diagram

[Hossbaby50]

I am not a master diagram reader so I was wondering if anyone can help me out here. I need to know which wires I need to bypass the ignition switch and to get the truck and accesories to run.

From what I gather from the diagram the wires that I need to hotwire and toggle are

http://www.jmr.4speed.cc/Tech%20pages/Wiring%20Diagrams/Chevy%20-%20GMC/Blazer%20-%20Jimmy/85%20CK%20Vehicles/2.pdf

The wires I need help with are at the fuse panel.

Red (powers bat terminals at fuse panel)
Brown (powers radio)
Pink (powers coil)

Is the orange the accesories curcuits? What runs off those? I don't have AC anymore.

I don't need the choke curcuit to work since I don't have a carb anymore. The PWR are hot all the time right? What are the WDO's?

Thanks
Harley

 

[pauly383]

If I was stealing your truck ( easier in 1st gens , same colors , switch pops off easier ) , I'd put red to pink and momentarily touch purple , and all should worky except radio which is brown . Orange is constant , which is why horn and some lights always work when truck is off . Red is constant . Pink gives you your blinkers , gauges , ignition /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

I think WDO is your power windows /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

 

[Hossbaby50]

So I only need to hotwire the Pink and Brown to get everything to work.

You don't need to touch purple since I have already bypasses my starter onto a toggle switch.

Looks like I am going to have to implement new antitheft measures after I rewire it.

Harley

 

[pauly383]

I'd just change the switch . Call some stores tommorrow and see if they are cheap enough . Its not too hard to unbolt the switch and unplug it , its external on top of column under dash /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

But if you wanted anti theft use several switches . You could use some momentary switches , one under carpet you need to hit with foot , and another for your finger to bump starter . Can't start without both as they'd be in line on purple . Truck thief would think your truck was FUBAR as they wouldn't realize the floor switch /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[mosesburb]

In GM vehicles colors are as follows:

Red = unfused battery (+)
Brown = Accessory (key turned all the way back)
Pink = ingnition (+)
Orange = fused battery (+)
Purple = starter solenoid trigger

Orange will typically power any circuits that require constant power: i.e. clock, courtesy lights, brake lights, lighter, radio memory.

Brown will typically feed accessories that get "cut off" during cranking only: i.e. radio and A/C

Pink will feed anything that needs power when the key is on i.e. distributor, gauges, etc.

Red is for anything that requires big power at all times i.e.: ignition switch, headlight switch and unfused bat ports in the fuse block.

From this you should be able to decide what you want to run off of each circuit. One thing to be careful of is picking which circuits to run off of your ignition feed. I made the mistake years ago of triggering the cooling fan relays off of ignition, which when I get into a low battery situation will prevent it from starting because of too much draw. If I had it to do over again I would trigger the fan relays with accessory power so the fans would turn off while cranking, allowing the starter to get all of the power it can. Just my $.02 though.
Good luck with it.
Nick

 

[Hossbaby50]

How many amp fuse should I use on each line? Or should I just run it on a hotwire toggled and let the normal fuses take care of everything? Thanks

Harley

 

[mosesburb]

Just let the existing fuses take care of it. That way if you have a problem you are not hunting all over looking for an inline fuse somewhere else.
I read your other post about broken stuff in the column. Chances are you just broke the plasic pinion gear on the back of the lock cylinder or the rack it meshes with. Those pieces are available in a kit from GM for small money and even if the upper bowl of the column is damaged, that is not too expensive either. Over the years the car theives damaging the columns have made these pieces less expensive. None of these are very difficult to change. Keeping the column intact would be a better option than re-working a harness to eliminate an otherwise reliable setup. Leaving the harness intact will eliminate ALOT of issues when trying to diagnose an electrical issue down-the-road.
Just one guy's opinion though, take it for what it is worth.
Good Luck,
Nick

 

[Hossbaby50]

There were little broken plastic things in there along with the broken metal bar. I couldn't tell you what all was trashed as I don't know much about columns but my roommate how knows more about it then I do said it was pretty trashed and someone else on here mentioned if those metal bars were broken then I should just drop in a whole new column.

My answer was to rewire it onto a toggle.

I am going to use a 50 amp toggle. Will that be enough to hold the power drawn by the fuse panel and other interior stuff?

Harley

Harley

 

[mosesburb]

Well, I don't necessarily agree with their diagnosis as I have repaired columns that were more damaged than that (theft recoveries) for under a hundred, but since your decision has been made, I belive a 50A switch MIGHT do the job, but I would feel a whole lot more comfortable if you broke a couple/few circuits away from that switch to run through another 50A switch. With an approximate even split of amp draws, two switches should be safe (at least safer than just one).

 

[Hossbaby50]

I am splitting it to 2 50 amp switches. One will power the pink wire for the coil, ecm, etc. The other will power the orange and brown wires. My stereo isn't very powerful and has crappy speakers. I also left the red leads that are hot to the fuse panel connected like the are.

Harley