But if it has been "good" before, that should not be a factor. And did you see the pics of the starter on her truck?
And she stated that the noise is after shutting the engine off.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Help! Truck won’t start! Gas 350
- Thread starter GoGoGirl
- Start date
And she stated that the noise is after shutting the engine off.
The noise never happens except after I turn the key off, and has never been accompanied by a smell.
Someone here once had the idea of leaving the truck in gear and then turning it off to see if it still does that— which it didn’t.
Dieseling is like burning of residual fuel, correct? That’s what I’d suspect. But the sound is the sort of whine/hum/spinning sound of the starter.
Someone here once had the idea of leaving the truck in gear and then turning it off to see if it still does that— which it didn’t.
Dieseling is like burning of residual fuel, correct? That’s what I’d suspect. But the sound is the sort of whine/hum/spinning sound of the starter.
Yeah, the pics show a pretty crusty starter...and maybe I misread what it was doing.
If you already have a new starter, i'd slap it in.
The old one is very rusty.
But first things first.
Maybe start by putting the new battery in, as others suggested.
See if that gets the truck going.
Measure voltage to be sure the alternator is putting out 13.8 to 14.2 volts running.
If all is good.
Shut off the truck and measure voltage again.
Should be near 12.8
Then, if it was me, i'd swap that crusty, rusty, and just waiting to break, starter of yours.
Vermont salts their roads huh?
Wyoming is too cheap.. thankfully.
The old one is very rusty.
But first things first.
Maybe start by putting the new battery in, as others suggested.
See if that gets the truck going.
Measure voltage to be sure the alternator is putting out 13.8 to 14.2 volts running.
If all is good.
Shut off the truck and measure voltage again.
Should be near 12.8
Then, if it was me, i'd swap that crusty, rusty, and just waiting to break, starter of yours.
Vermont salts their roads huh?
Wyoming is too cheap.. thankfully.
I just thought of something, do you have a good long handle ratchet to pull the starter bolts? I am also wondering if the starter bolts will come out, or break off, which could be a decent problem if you don't have the tools deal with that. And in the snow and all, not fun.
Would this be a factor in attempting to change it where the truck sits?
And yes dieseling is residual fuel, but also the spark plug tips and/or carbon in the cylinders being hot enough to keep lighting the mixture in the cylinders.
A carbureted engine doesn't shut the fuel off with the key, just ignition. So if there is a way for it to get ignition, the fuel and air mixture will keep flowing. But usually it will quit fairly quickly.
Would this be a factor in attempting to change it where the truck sits?
And yes dieseling is residual fuel, but also the spark plug tips and/or carbon in the cylinders being hot enough to keep lighting the mixture in the cylinders.
A carbureted engine doesn't shut the fuel off with the key, just ignition. So if there is a way for it to get ignition, the fuel and air mixture will keep flowing. But usually it will quit fairly quickly.
T
tenderfoot
Guest
I've had a bad connection in my starter for a long time. Always had to crank a few times to start. Finally went to correct the starter and the solenoid fell apart upon me removing the +. So I just put another starter on I had. Damnit if it doesn't start right up from just bumping the key every time.
I say change the battery.
If it starts do the plowing you need then when the storm is over you can get the truck in a better place and change the starter.
If the battery doesn't solve the problem then change the starter to hopefully fix the problem
I’m sure many already know this, but I’ll mention it because I learned the hard way.
Do not over tighten the positive lead on the starter solenoid. You will distroy the plastic housing of the solenoid. I don’t remember what the torque specs are, but its not much all. And also, don’t forget to disconnect the battery before changing out the starter. The nut for the positive lead and the frame are the perfect distance apart for a wrench to arch between the two 
Do not over tighten the positive lead on the starter solenoid. You will distroy the plastic housing of the solenoid. I don’t remember what the torque specs are, but its not much all. And also, don’t forget to disconnect the battery before changing out the starter. The nut for the positive lead and the frame are the perfect distance apart for a wrench to arch between the two 
Good advice...
I put a lock washer under the nut for the positive battery cable at the solenoid and only tighten it just enough to make it close up--otherwise that plastic cap will crack,especially in frigid weather--that stud is just a brass carriage bolt and the square portion under its head is the only thing keeping it from turning when you tighten the nut,and that plastic isn't very strong...
I have attached the cable to the solenoid on the ground ,then put the starter in,its a lot easier to tighten the nut while its lowered--be careful not to put any strain on the cable,it can crack the cap on the soleniod if it gets any sideways force applied to it..
I also learned to take off the battery cable first--one time I put in a starter without doing that and something was wrong with it--as soon as I touched the cable to the stud ,the starter began cranking,and the flexplate ring gear did a number on my elbow--it ground it down to the bone in less than one or two revolutions..
I like having a battery disconnect switch on the battery,but haven't had one on anything in years..back when I had my 72 K5,I dropped a wrench,and it bounced off the exhaust manifold and landed perfectly on the starter solenoid and "jumped" the crank wire to the positive cable,and it arced good enough that it couldn't be pulled off ,plus it was hard to reach..by the time I got a wrench and the cable off at the battery with it cranking over, it was starting to glow,and my hands got burned pretty bad..
I put a lock washer under the nut for the positive battery cable at the solenoid and only tighten it just enough to make it close up--otherwise that plastic cap will crack,especially in frigid weather--that stud is just a brass carriage bolt and the square portion under its head is the only thing keeping it from turning when you tighten the nut,and that plastic isn't very strong...
I have attached the cable to the solenoid on the ground ,then put the starter in,its a lot easier to tighten the nut while its lowered--be careful not to put any strain on the cable,it can crack the cap on the soleniod if it gets any sideways force applied to it..
I also learned to take off the battery cable first--one time I put in a starter without doing that and something was wrong with it--as soon as I touched the cable to the stud ,the starter began cranking,and the flexplate ring gear did a number on my elbow--it ground it down to the bone in less than one or two revolutions..
I like having a battery disconnect switch on the battery,but haven't had one on anything in years..back when I had my 72 K5,I dropped a wrench,and it bounced off the exhaust manifold and landed perfectly on the starter solenoid and "jumped" the crank wire to the positive cable,and it arced good enough that it couldn't be pulled off ,plus it was hard to reach..by the time I got a wrench and the cable off at the battery with it cranking over, it was starting to glow,and my hands got burned pretty bad..
Dieseling is not starter related, so changing the starter will not change this.Dieseling, also known as run on is caused by the throttle plates being open enough for air/fuel to dribble into engine. So possible idle screw adjustment, gunky dirty linkage and or choke.
So if battery starts truck no need to change starter esp in the weather you currently have.
Or carbon deposits in the combustion chamber.
Any progress? We truck nerds want to know!
Sooooo...
Same situation has happened today when I went to get gas! First post here tells it fairly the same way.
Turn key, hear buzzer, engine cranked for about three seconds (usually takes about 10 seconds to start), then silence. Tried again, only hear a single, very fast noise (fuel pump?) when I turn the key.
Battery reads 12.6V. Schmaker “analyzer” on my charger says 77 percent. Charged it up fully. Same results...no crank, no start.
The shop where I bought the battery says they think it could be the battery even at +/-10 months old. But wouldn’t it read something like 12.2V if it was “dying”?
Same situation has happened today when I went to get gas! First post here tells it fairly the same way.
Turn key, hear buzzer, engine cranked for about three seconds (usually takes about 10 seconds to start), then silence. Tried again, only hear a single, very fast noise (fuel pump?) when I turn the key.
Battery reads 12.6V. Schmaker “analyzer” on my charger says 77 percent. Charged it up fully. Same results...no crank, no start.
The shop where I bought the battery says they think it could be the battery even at +/-10 months old. But wouldn’t it read something like 12.2V if it was “dying”?
Voltage only tells part of the story. It could have good voltage and still fail a load test...
I hate intermittent problems like this. About enough to drive you crazy.
First check is always battery.
Good volts?
Pass load test?
Good, clean, tight connections at the posts?
Next step - cable connections.
Good, clean, tight connection where grounded to the frame or motor?
If grounded to frame, is the ground strap from engine to frame good, clean, tight?
Is the positive connection to the starter post good, clean, tight?
If cable is tight to starter post, verify that post is not loose in solenoid. (I've had this happen.)
Step 3 - activation circuit
Is the small wire going to the small post on the solenoid good, clean, tight?
Using an assistant to turn key, verify good voltage to small post when key turned to start position.
If voltage isn't good to small post, it's in the truck side of things.
If voltage is good, I would pull and test starter. Or swap a known good one, if handy.
For quick reference,
A clack type sound generally means solenoid is activating, but not enough juice, starter bad, or bad connections.
A click type sound generally means the starter relay is working, but there's a problem somewhere from there to the solenoid.
A humming sound, typically from the rear would be the fuel pump.
First check is always battery.
Good volts?
Pass load test?
Good, clean, tight connections at the posts?
Next step - cable connections.
Good, clean, tight connection where grounded to the frame or motor?
If grounded to frame, is the ground strap from engine to frame good, clean, tight?
Is the positive connection to the starter post good, clean, tight?
If cable is tight to starter post, verify that post is not loose in solenoid. (I've had this happen.)
Step 3 - activation circuit
Is the small wire going to the small post on the solenoid good, clean, tight?
Using an assistant to turn key, verify good voltage to small post when key turned to start position.
If voltage isn't good to small post, it's in the truck side of things.
If voltage is good, I would pull and test starter. Or swap a known good one, if handy.
For quick reference,
A clack type sound generally means solenoid is activating, but not enough juice, starter bad, or bad connections.
A click type sound generally means the starter relay is working, but there's a problem somewhere from there to the solenoid.
A humming sound, typically from the rear would be the fuel pump.
ok so this truck is a M1009 which is not the same as production k5. what has been changed is it a diesel ? still 24volt ? I don't know really anything about these trucks. I did a little research, after reading your last post about a fast noise you hear and questions about a relay. A M1009 does have a starter relay installed in the cab middle lower dash. This just may be your culprit.
You can see the starter relay bottom center. When key is in the start position the yellow wire spliced into purple white 930E has 12 volt signal to close the relay. The red wire should have battery voltage, hopefully 12.6 or better. When relay is activated(closed) the current from red wire then connects to purple wire that actuates the stater solenoid at the starter.
Relays wear out every time the switch closes there is a small arch this arch moves metal after awhile the resistance is to much for the circuit to operate.
Personally I would replace that original relay with a ford style starter solenoid. It is the same circuit wise, just bigger, and will carry more current easily.
Something like this https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...arter/duralast-relay-f496/118604_157561_11118
The small terminals(control side) will get the purple with white wire on 1, the other small terminal goes to a good ground. the big terminals(load side) will get the red on one side and purple on the other. I believe there is enough room in the original location for this update to fit.
the original relay part number is 15591718 gm .
You can see the starter relay bottom center. When key is in the start position the yellow wire spliced into purple white 930E has 12 volt signal to close the relay. The red wire should have battery voltage, hopefully 12.6 or better. When relay is activated(closed) the current from red wire then connects to purple wire that actuates the stater solenoid at the starter.
Relays wear out every time the switch closes there is a small arch this arch moves metal after awhile the resistance is to much for the circuit to operate.
Personally I would replace that original relay with a ford style starter solenoid. It is the same circuit wise, just bigger, and will carry more current easily.
Something like this https://www.autozone.com/batteries-...arter/duralast-relay-f496/118604_157561_11118
The small terminals(control side) will get the purple with white wire on 1, the other small terminal goes to a good ground. the big terminals(load side) will get the red on one side and purple on the other. I believe there is enough room in the original location for this update to fit.
the original relay part number is 15591718 gm .
Thanks everyone. Eric you broke it down so well, I just lack the time to diagnose those things!
Pulled the battery today and had it load tested. Was fine. Cleaned terminals which were somewhat oxidized, put back in Blazer, still no luck.
Positive side clamp seems difficult to tighten properly although I did get it to go on, or so it seems.
Maybe I’m not understanding this, but if there was an electrical connection problem, wouldn’t the key buzzer not come on and the vehicle make absolutely no sounds? Unfortunately due to work and a new long commute I don’t have time to spend troubleshooting in depth. It just sucks. I’m trying to do this myself but my time and knowledge are limited.
The battery has a warranty— should I return it and ask for a new one? Or is the problem likely not that? Because last time this happened (thread beginning), the problem was a dead battery.
Pulled the battery today and had it load tested. Was fine. Cleaned terminals which were somewhat oxidized, put back in Blazer, still no luck.
Positive side clamp seems difficult to tighten properly although I did get it to go on, or so it seems.
Maybe I’m not understanding this, but if there was an electrical connection problem, wouldn’t the key buzzer not come on and the vehicle make absolutely no sounds? Unfortunately due to work and a new long commute I don’t have time to spend troubleshooting in depth. It just sucks. I’m trying to do this myself but my time and knowledge are limited.
The battery has a warranty— should I return it and ask for a new one? Or is the problem likely not that? Because last time this happened (thread beginning), the problem was a dead battery.
Welcome.
It's possible to have enough connection to power a smaller load, like the buzzer, but not enough connection to carry the bigger load of the starter.
If it passed the load test ok, I doubt replacing it would help, but you never know.
It sucks not having the time to work on stuff when you need to. Especially when not having a good place to do it. I know the pain.
Just take your time. Pick small bites so you don't get overwhelmed. And, since you only get short windows to work, keeping track of what you check as you go so you don't end up redoing work you've already done may help.
Hopefully, it will be a quick fix.
Once again thanks a ton for the motivation and encouragement!
I was talking to a neighbor and he had an idea...could I possibly rule out a bad battery (and save time and effort) by seeing if I can jump start the Blazer from another vehicle?
I was talking to a neighbor and he had an idea...could I possibly rule out a bad battery (and save time and effort) by seeing if I can jump start the Blazer from another vehicle?
That could work. Or swapping in a different, known good, battery.
We all started somewhere. It just takes time and patience.
