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Help! *****UPDATE on last page*****

thanks go the reply guys. I am just going to let it sit in the driveway :( till i can save up some funds to take it to a shop. It is getting worse on the road turning off all the time. One of my bud's mentioned the EGR valve to me. Told me to stick my finger in it and see if it move's easy. Well i tried it and it was hard to move. Anyways i dont know if the EGR has anything to do with it and i am sick of throwing money at it. I will post in here again in about two to three weeks when i take it to a shop and let you guys know what was wrong with it so no one else has to endure my nightmare. Time to play taps as i put the beast down for awhile.........
 
When it dies, does it start right back up, or does it not like to re-start, meaning you can do some diagnostics while it's dead?
 
No it will stall and start right back up. But now it's starting to hesitate a little on the restart, have to put the key all the back into the off position then try to restart.
 
What happens (now) if it stalls and you just try turning the key straight to start without turning it to "off"? Any starter response or not?
 
Oh yeah the starter works fine, just take longer to start sometimes.
crank, crank, crank, fire, run for a sec or two turn off
 
One little thing you can try. Start it and keep your hand on the key. Don't let it come all the way back, but don't let the starter stay engaged either. It may be just a linkage problem on the electrical portion of the ignition switch.
 
help

Leper said:
One little thing you can try. Start it and keep your hand on the key. Don't let it come all the way back, but don't let the starter stay engaged either. It may be just a linkage problem on the electrical portion of the ignition switch.
Click to expand...
He may be right. The electrical part of the switch is down on the steering column about knee level. Its a flat switch, set-up like a harmonica. I've had to replace mine.
 
Hmmm....when it stalls out it does seem to turn off just like if i was to turn the key off. I will have to take a look at it. Thanks again for your replies
 
One more thing I just noticed..... How does your ground cable from the battery look? Is it all corroded at the engine side? When the truck is running and you try to rev it up, does the speedo move? If so, It could mean that your battery ground is bad and it is hunting for a ground through other circuits.
BTW... I am fighting the same thing on my 91 burban. It has blown a few coils and a few modules. I put another coil in it today, and it will run at very high idle and then it will die after a couple of minutes(the first time) then it will start and die. Even if I keep it revved it will die, but today I noticed my badly corroded negative batt cable, so that is the next thing to change. I have a trail spare dist, and I am about to swap it in just for giggels.
 
Thanks for the help leper i will have to check the ground cable tonight. I will let you know what happens, also keep me posted as well with your progress
 
One more....again..... Oil pressure???? Where is it on yours? If the presure is low or the switch thinks it is it will turn the ignition off. Low pressure cutoff is, I think, 20 psi.

And my other response........ does yours idle high when it first starts??
 
Leper said:
One more....again..... Oil pressure???? Where is it on yours? If the presure is low or the switch thinks it is it will turn the ignition off. Low pressure cutoff is, I think, 20 psi.
Click to expand...
I will have to check my pressure not sure what it is at.
Leper said:
And my other response........ does yours idle high when it first starts??
Click to expand...
Yes idles high then after warm idles around 700rpm, when i first replaced the IAC it idled super high for about 30 sec or so.

Also last night i replaced the temp sensor on the intake manifold with no luck :mad:
Could my egr valve be causing this condition? I heard if you stick your finger in it it should move with ease, i tried pushing mine in and it wasnt that easy to move at all
 
Oil pressure issues will not kill a TBI engine unless the fuel pump relay is dead. If that were the case, every engine start would take longer than normal as the 5PSI oil pressure needed to close the switch built up from the starter cranking the engine over.
 
dyeager535 said:
Oil pressure issues will not kill a TBI engine unless the fuel pump relay is dead. If that were the case, every engine start would take longer than normal as the 5PSI oil pressure needed to close the switch built up from the starter cranking the engine over.
Click to expand...

Are you positive on that? I thought that the start delay that keeps the A/C from operating while starting also bypassed the ign oil pressure cutoff. If I remember correctly you can start any vehicle with no oil in it, it will just shut off quickly. I don't think it is a fuel cutoff in this vehicle, I believe it is an ignition kill.
Please enlighten me if I am thinking incorrectly, as this is the general thought of all that I have talked to so far.
 
20-2.jpg


Look at the splices for the oil pressure switch. You could remove the switch and as long as the relay was working correctly, power to the pump would not be interrupted. All it does is provide another path to feed the pump AROUND the relay (whether needed or not) once the switch sees 5PSI.
 
my 88 burbane would cut off if i didn't baby the pedal.
drove me nuts for a couple of days.
then a friend said check the oil level.
how embaressing it was off the stick.
3 qts later the problem went away.
i should have known better being a forklift mech.
they use the same safety switch.
it's in the schematics.
live and learn.
 
**Update**
Truck has been in the shop since Friday, got a call this morning and was told that my pick up coil wires were all burnt up and the module that i installed from autozone was no good :doah: ,just wanted to share my info. The good news is that i should have my rig back today :D
 
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