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Help with brakes. please.

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klowninc89

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sup guys!!! i got a problem i have a 1990 k5 with a 350 tbi and the issue is mt brake pedal is really soft. i put a new master clyiner in it and still is soft been bleed by me like 5 times and twice by a shop. any ideas? its got all new lines and brakes Except rotors and drums. just the drum. all new hardware. please help with any ideas.
 
klowninc89 said:
sup guys!!! i got a problem i have a 1990 k5 with a 350 tbi and the issue is mt brake pedal is really soft. i put a new master clyiner in it and still is soft been bleed by me like 5 times and twice by a shop. any ideas? its got all new lines and brakes Except rotors and drums. just the drum. all new hardware. please help with any ideas.
Click to expand...


Run it down from the top:

Check your vacuum lines for leaks.
Make sure all bleeders are closed.
Did you bench bleed/cycle the MC before install?
Recheck and adjust the brake travel at MC.

Tell us what you see.
 
i did bench bleed the mc before i put it on then bleed the brake system.... could it be the booster?
 
klowninc89 said:
i did bench bleed the mc before i put it on then bleed the brake system.... could it be the booster?
Click to expand...

Booster has no effect on air in the system. Sounds like you just need to bleed some more. Have you adjusted the rear shoes up correctly?
 
When I converted my rear drum brakes to disc brakes in my 1988 Blazer, my proportioning valve kept tripping. After replacing the proportioning valve with a 50/50 aftermarket one, I bled my brakes about 5 or 6 times and could not get a firm pedal. I replaced the power booster and bled the brakes again about 4 or 5 times and still no firm pedal. I finally had to build a power bleeder system with a garden sprayer pressure bottle and open all bleeder valves and had air come out of all the lines. Now I have a firm pedal and can lock up all tires if I stand on the brakes! Power bleed your brake system to get rid of those hidden air bubbles! - Wes
 
quick question about the method of power bleeding brakes (don't mean to HIJACK) so i understand the theory behind power bleeding the system. put the nozel on the fluid resevior open the bleeder valves on the calipers and pressurize the system with the pump on the bleeder. their website says you don't spill a drop, how is this possible if you're pressurizing the brakes with 10-15psi...you obviously can't be at all 4 corners of the truck at the same time!
 
At the four bleed screws, put tygon tubing on the bleed screw that is the same size diameter as the bleed screw so that it is a tight fit and run the other end into a small container. That way, when the system is pressurized you go to each bleed screw and shut them one at a time when air free brake fluid flows into the containers. Start at the farthest corner and work you way in to the nearest brake to the master cylinder. With this method, all brake fluid is contained in the containers and you don't spill a drop! - Wes
 
i thought the idea of power bleeding was to flow out all the bleed zerks at the same time to ensure that there was absolutely no air in the line and to close them furthest to closest to the MC

good idea about the tube tho

EDIT***I just said the same thing you did...ok i get it...I'm operating off 2 hours of sleep from lookin at truck parts all night :)
 
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