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Help with D44 Disasembly and Indentity

8t7jimmy

8t7jimmy

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I can't seem to get the spindle separated from the Knuckle. Is there something I am missing?

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Thanks for the help!

Ryan
 
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yep beat the heck out of it with a deadblow or hold a 2x4 against it using a bfh. Once I get it to move I sometime use a chunk of steel or an old screwdriver to hold the gap while I hit the other way. This rocks it out. The spindle is not flat, it has a register that fits in the knuckle, that is what you are fighting.
 
Where are the studs?

See the unpolished area between the bearing surfaces? Hit it there. The spindle will usually crack loose, put the tip of a flat head screwdriver in the crack then hit it on the opposite side.
 
4-5 lb dead blow hammer left / right & up / down .


also don't hit like a GIRL . . . . show that rusty old B!TCH who is boss.

then when apart grind / file / remove rust from the spindle lip and the knuckle bore hole and use lots of anti-sieze on them for re assembly .
 
Does anybody know what year of 3/4T truck this axle would have come from? It is a Chevy D44, but not a flat top knuckle. I need to buy bearings, u-joints and ball joints for it and I am not sure what year to tell them.

Thanks
 
later 44 if non flat top .

best way to get a idea is pop the diff cover and read the date code on the ring gear . if its all original .

might get lucky and get a b.o.m. # off the diff tube . then run that on a b.o.m. ref chart .

also good time to service the gear oil and check the gears since your down that far . maybe even diff seals if your willing and know how .
 
You can match up the numbers stamped onto the bearing races & cups --thats the best way to get what was in there originally..
I don't know if you can I.D. a front axle by casting numbers,etc--rear diffs usually have the date of manufacture stamped on the outer diameter of the ring gear,along with the ratio in numerical form ( like 40-10),front ones might too..I never really paid attention when I had my front diff cover off any of my trucks..

Beat me by a minute Sweet K30 !..:doah:..
 
sweetk30 said:
later 44 if non flat top .

best way to get a idea is pop the diff cover and read the date code on the ring gear . if its all original .

might get lucky and get a b.o.m. # off the diff tube . then run that on a b.o.m. ref chart .

also good time to service the gear oil and check the gears since your down that far . maybe even diff seals if your willing and know how .
Click to expand...

Yeah, I am rebuilding most everything in it, but probably not the diff seals. My I have very little experience setting up gears and I think the D44 requires special tools to get the diff out.

What years are the later D44 in 3/4T?
 
Up to and including 1978 for a D44.
As for changing the axle seal, often times on a D44, the ring and carrier can be eased out as to allow those to be changed, and gently reinstalled so as not to pinch the gears putting it back in the case. Changing the seal itself is cake.

If you get that far send me a PM and I can give you some tips
 
I will disagree a little with that statement

The carrier will most likely have to be forced out. I use a pry bar

Don't be careful putting it back in. Put grease on the bearings (I use trans assembly goo) to hold the races to the bearings. Wedge the carrier into the case. Hit it with a dead blow hammer. One side, then the other, going as straight as you can to "walk" it back in. You won't pinch the gears. They mesh.

The hardest part is getting the seals in straight. I bought the proper tool for it but you can use a threaded rod and some sockets to press them in.


For parts.

73-75 stuff should be right if the locking hub has the big 3/8" bolts holding it on

78-79 will work if the locking hub has the little Allen bolts holding it on. Also all newer 10 bolt parts EXCEPT the axle seals will work also. The outers are the same.
 
1BEATK5 said:
I will disagree a little with that statement

The carrier will most likely have to be forced out. I use a pry bar

Don't be careful putting it back in. Put grease on the bearings (I use trans assembly goo) to hold the races to the bearings. Wedge the carrier into the case. Hit it with a dead blow hammer. One side, then the other, going as straight as you can to "walk" it back in. You won't pinch the gears. They mesh.

The hardest part is getting the seals in straight. I bought the proper tool for it but you can use a threaded rod and some sockets to press them in.
Click to expand...

I didnt say it would fall out. Be careful not to drop it and damage it when you pull it. And put it in easy meaning dont force it in when you dont have the teeth aligned. Ive seen both done wrong
 
1BEATK5 said:
That's why I said a little. :D
Click to expand...

:waytogo:

I like putting a chunk of cardboard down, then you have something besides concrete if it gets away from you.
For that oh chit moment when they do come out and you were still prying!
:whistle:
 
Diff work is wierd like that. They are delicate yet require hammers and giant bars.
 
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