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Help with hydro assist-Update

WJACKSON11X

1/2 ton status
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Mar 12, 2007
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Madison,GA
Finally got everything hooked up for hydro assist including a cooler and remote reservoir. I started the bleeding process with truck off and draglink removed. Started truck up and immediately the steering wheel started turning by itself and ram extended. Now the ram will not move either direction and steering feels tight. I've got the endcap and top cover tapped with the endcap hose going to side of ram that is closest to the end that moves (if that makes sense). If the lines were reversed, would it cause these symptoms? It's a brand new pump, hoses, and cylinder with 8" stroke. Ram is not mounted to tierod, just hanging.
 
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You should have the draglink attached and the cylinder mounted to the tie rod/axle when you bleed it.

Who did the port work on the box or how was it ported?
 
I tapped the top cap myself and installed a JKW offroad endcap. So I guess I'm having issues because it's not connected to anything? I guess the best way is to set steering all the driverside, extend ram completely and then weld tabs. I'm just curious what is causing steering to pull by itself. Thanks.
 
Here's a quick pic. The hose on the right is going to the endcap.
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I know that steering box acts differently than you'd expect with no load on it (i.e. the draglink disconnected). I would assemble the whole system and see where you're at.
 
just to expand on what was said

you want the ram connected so you can turn the wheel back and forth to force the ram in and out, thus bleeding it properly. After I had everything together, I turned the steering wheel, with the wheels off the ground, a thousand times.....or until the level in the reservoir stopped dropping. Remember, when the wheels go driver, the level will naturally drop. When turned passenger, the level will be as high as it will ever be. That should be your telling point

sorry, my blazer isn't here otherwise I'd check your line connections. Going off what owenst7 said, you're lines would be correct.
 
If theres no load on the steering box the ram will not move when you turn the steering. It took me awhile to figure that out when we were workin on my buddies truck. If you try to hold the steering arm while turning the steering it should move the ram.

Narek
 
I used that exact same ram and it acted the same way when I first hooked it up.

After I turned it back and forth a million times it started to work normal. I think it's possible that the air pressure in the line is what pushed the steering to the right. When you work the air out it should be fine.

Did you hook up a cooler, if yes did you make sure it is lower than the reservoir?

To be honest with you I messed up the first time and hooked my lines up backwards. When the ram started working it pretzeled my cross over steering arm.

After I replaced the steering arm I disconnected the ram on one end and turned the steering wheel to confirm that the lines were hooked up correct and the ram was working properly.
 
I used that exact same ram and it acted the same way when I first hooked it up.

After I turned it back and forth a million times it started to work normal. I think it's possible that the air pressure in the line is what pushed the steering to the right. When you work the air out it should be fine.

Did you hook up a cooler, if yes did you make sure it is lower than the reservoir?

To be honest with you I messed up the first time and hooked my lines up backwards. When the ram started working it pretzeled my cross over steering arm.

After I replaced the steering arm I disconnected the ram on one end and turned the steering wheel to confirm that the lines were hooked up correct and the ram was working properly.

Yeah I'm running a cooler and it is below the reservoir. Did you cycle the streering with the truck running? As soon as the rain quits I'm gonna mount the ram and start over.
 
NO.

I cycled it without it running several times before I started it. If you start it before you get the air out it will force the fluid to purge out of the overflow.

I would steer it back and forth and when you get full right you should be able to hear the air burp out of the system.

Don't let the fluid get too low or it will suck more air in when you go back to the left, and then you will need to start all over again.
 
Update- I finally got the ram mounted lastnight. It is now acting normal. I can now turn steering lock to lock on ground with one finger. It's amazing how much better it is now. For future reference, you definetly need to have the ram mounted in order for it to work properly. I just need to get the hoses where I want them and throw some paint on the axle and tierod. I used Kert's ram mount tabs and a beefy tierod that I made. The trick to bleeding is to have the reservoir above everything, including the cooler. Bleeding was no problem once the ram was mounted.
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1361129494.jpg

1361129388.jpg
 
Good job. :waytogo:

I noticed you put the bolt in the ram mount from the bottom. I dropped mine in from the top.
As unlikely as it is, If the nut decides to loosen up your bolt could fall out, if you drop it in from the top the nut can fall off and the bolt will still be there.
 
1361129388.jpg


How close does the driver side fitting get to the tierod at full lock? Looks like it may get really close.
 
Pblaze- my thought on the bolt was to protect the nut from getting messed up. I'm using locknuts, so shouldn't have to worry on loosening up. You do make a great point on the bolt though.

Chris- the fittings do come close, but I cycled steering to check for clearance. Everything clears. I may eventually cut/rotate ram to get fittings facing up.
 

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