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Help with lift (pics)

sarasotausmc

1/2 ton status
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Location
Jacksonville NC
So springs are on, everything was going ok, until started cranking down the ubolts. The spring plate (?) won't line up with the stud on the top the spring. It's the same amount of error on both sides, about a 1/4" off as you can see in the pics.

What is the best way to fix this?

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Get out the big pry bar and wrestle it until it lines up. You could also unbolt the anti-sway bar, then tighten up the u-bolts. After they are torqued, then reattach the anti-sway bar.:D
 
Would rotating the axle from rear upward about 1/4" work? It's already loose. Was thinking about sway bar too.
 
its the sway bar. the sway bar moves in an arc so it gets closer / farther from the center pins as it moves up and down. dissconnect it and tighten the ubolts. now zip tie the sway bar up out of the way and drive it a lil, see how you like it. it will ride better with out it and seeing as you have lift springs you shouldnt need it. i ran one for a little while, took it off and never ever looked back:D
 
Disco the sway bar. When you tighten the ubolts, make sure the vehicles weight is on the axle.
 
Thanks for the help. Loosening the bar did the trick. I've read alot about disconnecting the sway bar, but don't know yet if I feel comfortable about it. Wanna drive the truck first with the new springs as the only difference. But now that I got the springs bolted up correctly, the 1/4 transferred to where the bar connects up front. The stock bolts are short by almost exactly that much. If driving with it disconnected or removed is safe, would it also be safe enough to buy some longer bolts and just crank it till it fits?

And yes, after I feel more comfortable driving it without the sway bar, I will try it.
 
how are you gonna get comfortable driving it without the swaybar without dissconnecting it????the reason everything is too short is because the axle is farther away. really your only correct options are 1. get a sway bar dissconnect kit, this allows the sway bar to move in its arc correctly and still provdie sway control. 2. Save yourself a 100 bucks and ditch the sway bar. really this is the best option. i wouldnt promote something thats unsafe. try this then make your descion... dissconnect the sway bar from the spring plates, (still keep ot connected to the frame though) and zip tie it up tight to the frame (the end that would be on the spring plate) now take it for a little drive, just some nice and slow back roads. slowly work your speed up. im not saying jump on the highway right away. i can almost gaurantee you WONT feel a differance. I know the idea of loosing the sway bar may sound a little scary, and thats the problem. It seems like a very important part (which on a stock suspension it is) so it hard for your mind to gewt around that fact. most of us, at least 90% will say ditch it. those whp dont either drive burbs' (which are heavier so the body roll can be felt alot more) or dont go off the road.
 
If I can find all the pieces, I will sell you a disconnect kit for 50.00 shipped. but I will tell you that I disconnected the swaybay wheeling one time, and never put it back on.
 
Leper said:
If I can find all the pieces, I will sell you a disconnect kit for 50.00 shipped. but I will tell you that I disconnected the swaybay wheeling one time, and never put it back on.
thats why im trying to drive the point home to him, its just a waste of time, money and effort. the same thing happened to me. at least try it without the sway bar, even if its around the block, you WONT regret it!:D
 
Hey! I think he needs it and I have a ORD disconnect kit I should sell too.
Let us sell our kits 1st, then tell everyone they don't need it.
OK :o , I guess I'll sell mine later, but Hey! don't tell the next guy.
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anyone wanna buy a slightly used sway bar too :crazy: .
Most of us bought the kit, then dumped them.
I don't even remember when I last had a sway bar hooked up.
Oh, and you can't get flex like this with one on either-
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