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Help with Lifting

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spazzyfry123

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Buford, Georgia
I have a 1988 K5 Silarado Blazer and I am guessing it has about a 4 inch lift on it now (lifted when bought). This will be more of a road K5 than offroad. I want it to be big foot really (40" tires or somewhere around there). But what I need to know is what all is necessary to make this possible? What do I do to lift (shackle reversing?)? Will I need a new diff setup? Will a new driveshaft be needed for new angle? Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance, Spazzyfry123 /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
I have a 1988 K5 Silarado Blazer and I am guessing it has about a 4 inch lift on it now (lifted when bought). This will be more of a road K5 than offroad. I want it to be big foot really (40" tires or somewhere around there). But what I need to know is what all is necessary to make this possible? What do I do to lift (shackle reversing?)? Will I need a new diff setup? Will a new driveshaft be needed for new angle? Any help will be appreciated.
Thanks in advance, Spazzyfry123 /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

[/ QUOTE ] Okay, 40" or larger tires. Lets start with 1 ton axles with 5.13 gears. Lift ?? Are you willing too trim your fenders ?? If flex isn't inportent, get yourself some 12" lift springs, and maybe a 3" body lift also. You might want too add ORD Zero Rates on both ends. You'll need new driveshafts. Probley HAD (High Angle Driveline).
 
I would forget the idea of running 40's if you are not willing to spend a bunch of money, time, and not willing to put up with having a blazer that tall. It would be pretty much useless towing and hauling much. Big tires like that are expensive, wear out fast, and give a terrible ride and handle even worse. You think it won't be all tha bad but I can tell from experience that when it's time to go home after a hard days work it takes some effort just getting in to the darned thing.

You will need at least 3/4 running gear to swap in and the gears need to be changed to 5.13's, thats not cheap. You will need expensive custom built drivelines and probably even need to have the rear end angled up. You will need at least a 10" lift kit to keep them out of the fenders(don't cut the fenders unless they are already rusted out) and sprins with that much arch will ride extremely stiff. Your tranny won't last near as long pushing around the extra weight and rolling resistance. Brakes will wear much faster from the large tires not wanting to stop. The motor will be gutless too. It is definantly not worth it on a daily driver IMHO.
 
we are not trying to talk you out of all this you just need to know what your in for before ya do it! example ME, I have all that cool stuff , check it out at my home (click my name)Just suspension and axles alone I'm into it over 14 large /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif, not including the roll cage , the BIG motor, the driveshafts /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif it aint cheap, but it sure is FUN,FUN,FUN!!! /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
 
OK...Umm...I stil want to go big, but not big in the pocket area /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gifThat's gonna be hard ain't it? Getting in and out isn't any matter to me, I'm young, I can take it. Towing:I don't even have a hitch for it. This isn't going to be used for long distance trips either: for right now it's just to school and back home...and anywhere else I wanna go to look cool (hopefully /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif). And yes, money is an issue, I'm not sure what I can do for limit, but I want to look cool and feel cool less the mondo bucks /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif. So I don't want all this highend type of stuff because I won't be needing it, but I also dont want P.O.S. I don't need all the articulation like my Jeep had cause like I said, road worthy but mudbog looking. Any links to what type of stuff I would be needing and just general help is full of thank-yous /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif(sorry, that's all I got) /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
Id' think about smaller tires then

Build it utilitarian enough and small tires look mean

You could try RJF, he built a truck with 35's and it doesnt look bad at all, and you will maybe need a 14BFF in the rear and thats if you have problems breaking the stock stuff
 
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OK...Umm...I stil want to go big, but not big in the pocket area /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gifThat's gonna be hard ain't it? Getting in and out isn't any matter to me, I'm young, I can take it. Towing:I don't even have a hitch for it. This isn't going to be used for long distance trips either: for right now it's just to school and back home...and anywhere else I wanna go to look cool (hopefully /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif). And yes, money is an issue, I'm not sure what I can do for limit, but I want to look cool and feel cool less the mondo bucks /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif. So I don't want all this highend type of stuff because I won't be needing it, but I also dont want P.O.S. I don't need all the articulation like my Jeep had cause like I said, road worthy but mudbog looking. Any links to what type of stuff I would be needing and just general help is full of thank-yous /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif(sorry, that's all I got) /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

[/ QUOTE ] Well, sence we're talking alittle more realisticly. I went with a 6" suspension lift. Think about contacting ORD (970) 945-7777. Ask them too but together a complete 6" lift for you. Now, you can add thier 1" body lift and thier Zero Rates too gain another inch of lift also. So you can end up with 8 inches of lift and still have a decent ride. For tires I have 36" Ground Hawg 2's (Radial). Super Swampers are more poppular, but I went with the Ground Hawg 2's because I needed a aggressive tire that'll last a long time with on pavement driving. Belive me, the truck is taller then most 4x4's running around. Most 4wd trucks I see around here have a 4" lift and 33" tires. You may still need new driveshafts, but a local driveshaft shop should be able too meet your needs. Axles ?? 1 tons are still prefered. Go 3/4 ton axles for now, if you end up breaking the front, upgrade to a Dana 60 then.
 
First thing I would look into would be axles. You already have a 4" lift and I'm assuming you have larger than stock tires as well. Look in the auto trader guides if your area has them for a 3/4 ton K20 truck. Often you can find them rotted out (depending on the area, I'm in the rust belt) with a perfectly good drivetrain. Maybe get a HD tranny and np205 transfer case in the deal (I got my whole drivetrain from a junk truck I paid $400 for). 3/4 ton axles in 4:10 ratio should be easy to come by. Add a 2" body lift and 1" zero rates or just go with a 3" body lift and you can easily fit 35s or even 37s with no trimming if flex isn't a concern.
 
Thanks Z3PR /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif Shackle Flip? How are these thingsm seems reasonable amount of lift for the price. But that's only for rear. I haven't looked too close at the front suspension, mainly rear. So is there a shckle flip for the front to keep the ride even? And could something like this be added on to the 6 inch lift or an 8 inch lift or whatever? I'm sorry for my stupid questions, but I've come from coil-over to leaf...big difference I'd say /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif. Another question: just guessing, how much would you say a new driveshaft(s) is going to cost me? (it is 4wd). Thanks once again /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
So you want to look "cool." I can respect that, 99% of the people that have a lift and wheels &tires just want it to have a nice agressive look. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif IMHO big tires are a little abnoxious looking because they are just so big! As far as the money goes, on whats needed for just getting it in the air far enough and setup half way decently...their really isn't a big price difference. You will need a lift, probably a 10" superlift and you can forget about your current 4" lift because I don't think you could get enough lift out of them to clear even just a 40" tire.

10" superlift, $1200
3/4 running gear. $400(varies)
Gear swap to 5.13's $1200 to have a shop do it.
Custom drivelines F&R at least $500.
Tires won't be less than 1200-1400 new probably.
I'll ket you calculate rims because they vary so hugely on price.

That is a lot of money already and you havent even touched your motor/tranny/tcase yet. If your tranny has a lot of miles it will hate the big tires and eventually let you know.

As far as you asking about not going all out basically to save some money.....you will basically need everything I listed bare minumum otherwise you will be plagued with problems from not doing things righ the first time.

Example. You don't want to spend the money but want big tires anyway so you run your stock running gear and your best chance at gears are 3.73's stock. You will blow that th700 right out of their, now you have a $1500 tranny to go through and you still have hi geared axles and to top it off probably 6 lug rims. You come up with 1500$, now your back to square 1....working tranny on hi geared axles and big tires. Then....you go ahead and buy different axles, gear them, and eat it on some 6 lug wheels for 8 luggers. IT IS CHEAPER TO DO IT RIGH THE FIRST TIME! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif If you are not willing to pour $5K into it than I wouldn't attempt it because you will just wind up with a mess.

On another note, Are you sure you want large tires like that? IT may look cool to you and your buddies but other people (and cops) view it as obnoxiuos and "there goes some kid." You are probably around the same age as me (20) and I already wish my K5 was a little shorter because it IS hard to get into even though you think it wont be and I am already getting tired of looked at like "their goes some kid." I am going to go with some simple but attractive 33" BFG muds on welds when I get my new dodge( am I getting old already or just maturing? /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif) I honestly don't like the way huge tires look on a short wheelbase K5, on a nice longbed crew cab Superduty or dodge it's not so bad but still looks a little silly IMHO. Like Ressurection Joe said, you can make a nice looking truck on 35's or even 33's. That is by far the cheapest route because you can probably get around spending thousands of dollars trying to get it safely done right into the air that hi to run 40's.
/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Thanks Z3PR /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif Shackle Flip? How are these thingsm seems reasonable amount of lift for the price. But that's only for rear. I haven't looked too close at the front suspension, mainly rear. So is there a shckle flip for the front to keep the ride even? And could something like this be added on to the 6 inch lift or an 8 inch lift or whatever? I'm sorry for my stupid questions, but I've come from coil-over to leaf...big difference I'd say /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif. Another question: just guessing, how much would you say a new driveshaft(s) is going to cost me? (it is 4wd). Thanks once again /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

[/ QUOTE ] My set up is 6" springs in the front, 4" Shackle flip + 3" springs in the rear (Note; K5's tend to sag in the rear because of the wieght from the topper. Same with burbs so that's why I went with a extra inch for the rear) I had a local driveshaft shop make completely new shafts will all new parts for $200.00 per driveshaft. I bought my 3/4 ton axles for $250.00 they only have 3.73 gears, but a local guy said he'd regear them for me for $100.00 per axle (I suply the new gears). Much cheaper then a shop.
 
Thanks for the help guys /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif But will I really be needing 5.13's for 40" tires? This is gonna be strictly street for now, but as time rolls on, I will upgrade for offroad use /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I'm not that familar with the gearing on Chevy's /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif. Can you tell me what I've got for the ratios in the front and rear please? It is a 1988 K5 Silvarado. Thanks once again /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
Your truck's RPO codes inside the glove box will tell us. Alot came with 3.73's though.
I think 5.88's would probably be better. Any way you slice it, your going to be driving a dog. Go with 35's-38's. Anything taller than that and your starting to get into the goofy looking range....
Good luck! /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
Custom drivelines F&R at least $500.

[/ QUOTE ]

You might as well triple that for a 10" lift on a vehicle that short.

IMO, 10" of lift on a Blazer will create driveline angles that are simply unbearable. A 1 ton CV will likely not be able to take the angle and there's nothing really recommended for daily driver use that will be able to take that angle in a rear shaft for extended periods of time. The front will be even worse but there are options for that since it is the front.

I know it's been done before and there are ways to pull it off, but IMO, 10" of springs is just a bad idea all around even if you forget the COG thing and only concentrate on the methods of getting power to the axles.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Your truck's RPO codes inside the glove box will tell us. Alot came with 3.73's though.
I think 5.88's would probably be better. Any way you slice it, your going to be driving a dog. Go with 35's-38's. Anything taller than that and your starting to get into the goofy looking range....
Good luck! /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

yeah, I was lookin' around and I see what you mean by "goofiness". OK, so I'll downsize a little, 37 or 38, but what would ya'll recomend for width?

My problem with the 5.13's is that I don't think I want to go that high for gearing. My dad's drag car had 5.13's... So I guess what I'm asking is: Since I am not going to go all out like most of you here do with offroading and the like, Will it be mandatory for gear swapping for just an average driver? thanks /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
I used to drive a 1990 Bronco (yea yea I know its a Ford) with 6" suspension lift, 2" body lift and 37s. Stock 302, stock AOD, and 3.55 gears. The thing got out of its own way fine, and would take brake torquing too. I had this in high school, and never really wheeled it. It saw some abuse, but nothing like what I do now. I think for what you want to do, 37s would be ok. It doesnt sound to me like you will be giving this truck 1% of the offroad abuse that most do on this board.
 
I understand exactly what you want and some of these guys are going crazy because they dont know any better. You dont need one ton axles. If you are looking for a CHEAPer way out i reccomend you do what i did.

1. If you arent really looking for any preformance get some crappy springs. The cheapest ive seen a kit is like 300 bux on ebay. Get a 4in they are common and give u a reasonable amount of lift.

2.If you want any extra lift and again you are not looking to wheel very hard or no wheeling atall, 3in body lift.

3. Get cheap chrome wheels like rockcrawler chrome modulers. Bling Bling for cheap. 65 a pc.

4. Get 35 tsl or do wut i did and get 36" iroks. (iroks are 163 a pc at 4wp!)

6. With a 36" tire you will have to trim a little bit unless you get a body lift but not much at all.

7. Also with 36in tires and a 4in suspension lift, you dont put that much more stress on you engine axles blah blah blah, you dont NEED new drive shafts, and even tho gearing might be nice you can get away withoutit.

w/ this setup your looking at about 1200 includeing the lift the tires and wheels.

if you have no way to install the lift ur looking at a whole new mess. I was just curious and called 4wp to install a lift for me and they said 1200!!!!!!!!!!!!!





heres me bling blingin.


I know this isint exactly what you are wanting but my ride height is just tall enough so when girls climb in my car i can still see up their skirts.
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