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Help With Removing Hub/Rotor From Spindle UPDATE!! Another Problem.

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isaac

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like the title says i am trying to remove the hub assembly from the spindle looks like the bearing fused its self to the spindle. dose anyone know how i would take that off. i tried hitting the rotor and using a pry bar with no luck. any suggestions would help. can i unbolt the spindle from the nuckle without removing the rotor? :dunno: when i took out the spindle nuts the bakc of the bearing fell apart but the rollers stayed in place....


thanks
isaac
 
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Just making sure, but you did take out 1 spindle lock nut, a washer w/ a bunch of holes in it and then another spindle lock nut, correct? I know first time I did mine took out the nut, then the washer (maybe what you are saying is the 'back of the bearing') and didnt see the inner nut in the grease at first.

This is on a 10bolt/d44 correct?
 
yeah both spindle nuts off i had taken it off a few years back with no problems but now it seems like one of the bearings fused its self to the spindle not letting me pull the rotor assembly off.
 
Sounds like the spindle may be wasted. What axle are we talkin' about?
 
Sounds like the bearing has spun on the spindle and welded its self to it. Its about 50/50 whether the spindle is still good.

Maybe not that good an odds. Most of the time it wears away enough of the spindle that you cannot reuse it.
But, every once and a while you wind up with a good spindle with a small part of the bearing welded on which you can grind down smooth.

I would get a good long chisel, a big hammer, and some eye protection and see how fast you can destroy that bearing.

I don't know about that particular one, but lots of them if you get the cage and all the rollers out, the inner part will fit through the race.

Then you can pull the hub off.
You will have to pull hard enough to pull the back seal out, because the back bearing will not come off over the front one, but that should get you to the point you can do some work.
 
Depends on how stuck it is. I don't think a puller or pusher like in the video would work with the brake brackets on these trucks.

You could certainly build a puller to pull the hub while pushing on the spindle itself.
 
cybrfire said:
Depends on how stuck it is. I don't think a puller or pusher like in the video would work with the brake brackets on these trucks.

You could certainly build a puller to pull the hub while pushing on the spindle itself.
Click to expand...


if i cant get it off how would i build one?
 
Not the easiest puller to build. You need to push on the spindle and pull against the wheel studs.

Threaded rod in the center would push on the spindle. It'd be a funky shaped plate with a nut welded on it to turn the threaded rod through.

Hard to describe.
 
I had to use a big 3 jaw puller on the rotor and pulled the rotor off this way when it happened to mine. It took two people to do it to get the damn thing off but it finally came. After this mess I converted to the Stage 8 locking system for the front end.

See pics below...

Picture 007.jpg

Picture 040.jpg

Picture 042.jpg
 
wazzabie said:
Why not just use a shop press?
Click to expand...


Can't remember what there is for room but gona be tough to get the spindle off the truck without first removing the hub.

EDIT, looking at the pics above, the nuts to pull the spindle are tucked back inside the brake backing plate.
 
finally got it fixed after hunting all over town for parts. i ended up having to cut the rotor hub off to get the outer bearing out to release the hub. the outer bearing fused its self to the spindle. so i got it fixed today i start it up go for a drive and looks like the water pump is leaking around the water pump down near the lower radator hose. just my luck. so i have 2 questions i torqued the spindle nut to 50lbs backed off turned rotor back to 50 lbs backed off just a hair. thats what the book says for warn manual locking hubs. now the rotor feels much tighter is that normal or am i just usto the feel of the messed up bearings? how hard is it to change the water pump?
 
Usually a newly packed hub with new bearings will feel pretty tight and gave a fair amount of rotational resistance to turning by hand.

Water pump is pretty straight forward. Remove fan, hoses, unbolt, replace...
 
ezoliver said:
Usually a newly packed hub with new bearings will feel pretty tight and gave a fair amount of rotational resistance to turning by hand.

Water pump is pretty straight forward. Remove fan, hoses, unbolt, replace...
Click to expand...

cool thanks for the reply i just wasnt too sure how the new bearings were suppose to feel but sounds like they are done right hopefully. lets see if i can knock out that water pump this weekend.
 
If you are worried about the bearings, this is a good check.
After you get the water pump fixed, take the truck out and run it a mile or two at highway speeds.
Then, if possible pull over and coast to a stop or stop using the emergency brakes only.

Get out and feel of the hub and spindle.
Cool to slightly warm is ok. Hot or good and warm is going to be too tight.

If its hot, let it cool and drive it back slowly or loosen it slightly on the spot. If its warm, and not really very warm, try a couple more miles. If it does not get any hotter, don't worry about it, it will wear in.

If you use your brakes to stop, you will feel some false heat from the rotors. If you are not sure, compare the temp from side to side.
They should be the same.
 
well i finally got the water pump and lower hose changed out without a problem. now i drove my blazer around about 30 miles at freeway speeds and did the test my bearings by coasting to a stop and using the emergency break to stop. the hub where the outer bearing is was a little hot. im not too sure how hot is too hot for the bearing to be? it was warm to the touch but not burning my hand hot. so i dont know either to drive it around a little more like this or loosen the axle nuts. i did the inner nut to 50lbs and the outer to 160lbs. i would just hate to have another problem with the bearing fusing its self to the spindle again that was a pain in the ass!!! thanks guys for all the replies.
 
After you torqued the inner nut to 50 ft/lbs, you did back it off part of a turn, didn't you? If you didn't, it will be too tight.
 
yep i backed off almost 1/4 turn to get the little pin to alighn with the washer.
 
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