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Help with subs

justwhatido

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Do I need a subwoofer for each side (left and right)? or will just one work?
Don't want to spend a fortune, just add some "thump" do a decent stereo sound.
 
one 10" should give you all the "thump" you want. It is not necessary to have 2 subs for a stereo.
 
i would do one 12 with 250 watts rms.

for the price difference, the sound is better. 12s handle all the freq's better i think.

look at infinity and alpine for decent lower end subs. also my favorite for everything. . . MEMPHIS
 
Whoa, Last time I messed with car stereo, there were 8 tracks. How do I wire the rest of the speakers in seperate chanels and the sub in Mono?
 
your head unit will have a built in amp with 4 channels pos and neg. prob about 20w rms and 50 w max.

then it will have RCA outputs to the sub. maybe mono or stereo. most of the time the newer headunits only have one sub output in RCA form.

plug that into your sub amplifier (the one or two RCA cables) and make sure you have the settings on the amp set according to your setup (mono, stereo, lowpass filters)

use pos from chan one, and neg from chan two.
 
Just buy a mono amp. It will only have one channel. The owner's manual will explain how to wire it, its easy dont worry.

for the price difference, the sound is better. 12s handle all the freq's better i think.
You are making too broad a generalization. Cone diameter by itself does not play so large a role in over all performance as you seem to think. Especially when talking about frequency response.
 
i understand the whole "not always"

but when talking about budget set ups, It is MY (even if it is wrong) opinion that larger cone diameter handles lows better. to me, it goes like this

In the case of budget woofers in small sealed boxes with med wattage.
10s are tight but dont hit as hard as the larger cones
12s still clean depending on brand but hits harder
15s and 18s hit the lows better but are a little more sloppy.

Again thats how I feel. I understand if I am wrong.
 
i understand the whole "not always"

but when talking about budget set ups, It is MY (even if it is wrong) opinion that larger cone diameter handles lows better. to me, it goes like this

In the case of budget woofers in small sealed boxes with med wattage.
10s are tight but dont hit as hard as the larger cones
12s still clean depending on brand but hits harder
15s and 18s hit the lows better but are a little more sloppy.

Again thats how I feel. I understand if I am wrong.
Cone diameter plays a role... in air displacement. But even within terms of linear displacement, its only half the equation. Linear excursion of the cone (xmax) being the other half of that equation.

How sloppy the system plays is much more dependant on the box size/type/alignment than is the cone diameter. Most people would argue the 'more moving mass' argument, but its been shown that it is mostly speaker inductance, not cone mass, that affects transient response. I have heard 18's that are much more accurate than many 10's Ive heard.

Low-end response will be affected by cone area, but cone area also only fills a portion of that equation. Enclosure specs again being the other part. And in a sealed system, excursion again playing a major role as well. An 18 of a certain brand/model sub will obviously move more air than its 10" counterpart (given similar enclosure designs etc) and so obviously display more low-end output, but that is not to say you could not build/buy a 10" sub that was not capable of out-displacing larger subs, perhaps even some 18's (extreme example).

Don't make more out of cone diameter than is necessary. Even as a 'rule of thumb', it will lead you down incorrect logic paths.
 
ive always been a fan of the solobaric L5's and L7 square subs they dont require a very big box and seem to hit hard
Weird you say that, as they actually require a very large box compared to other round subs of the same size.

Ive always hated the square cones. Square cones are inherently weaker than round ones, so Kicker adds weight in the form of stiffening ribs to the cone to keep it from warping from the uneven stress displayed about the outer edge.

Also, the corners on the square design, and more specifically the problems that arise with the surround in these corners, makes for a limiting factor in possible cone excursion. So in other words, their big claim to fame, more displacement potential from more cone area, is generally offset by other competing subs that have less cone area (round, stronger cones) but allow for more excursion, thereby making up any differences in displacement potential.

Finally, the entire square cone idea is a scam. If you want/need more cone area, instead of falling for Kicker's gimmick, just up-size to the next sized larger round cone. All that extra added weight to the cone, the surround that limits excursion... for what? More cone area? Puhlease. The only real time the square is actually utilized poperly is in the SoloX 18, any install that arrays the subs so close togther that they can be stacked in square form, or a situation where cone diameter is limited by space restrictions. The vast majority of installs using square cones, dont even need any of the real benefits they give.

Ive been trying to talk Tracey at Kicker/Stillwater Designs into producing another nice round sub for a couple years now. He keeps implying that its coming, but I dont see anything on the horizon yet.
 
kicker does make round subs just there lower quality ones and at the time i couldnt find or know of any round subs that only need .8 cubic air space in a box i completely agree with upsizing to next size if u have the room ive just used these in a couple install on 89-96 chevy trucks where we made a custom box to mount the sub and amp beneath the year seat and was really impressed with them but in no way do they come close to the JL 15's i have in my cadillac
 
kicker does make round subs just there lower quality ones and at the time i couldnt find or know of any round subs that only need .8 cubic air space in a box i completely agree with upsizing to next size if u have the room ive just used these in a couple install on 89-96 chevy trucks where we made a custom box to mount the sub and amp beneath the year seat and was really impressed with them but in no way do they come close to the JL 15's i have in my cadillac
I dont mean to rain on anyone's parade. The L series are still quite capable drivers. Im just very picky I guess. :D
 

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